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    1. · Registered
      18,068 Posts
      Remove the 4 nuts at the rear U-joint, remove the U-bolts, push the driveshaft forward slightly to clear the pinion yoke and then drop the end of the shaft to the floor on a wadded-up rag. Grab the cover that you (very thoughtfully) remembered to get from the auto parts store, pull the driveshaft and place the cover onto the output shaft of the transmission to prevent transmission oil from going everywhere. Remove the shift mechanism from the transmission and move everything out of the way that would prevent the engine and transmission from being removed from the car. Remove the throwout bearing operating mechanism from the bellhousing and move everything out of the way that would prevent the engine and transmission from being removed from the car.

      Remove the bolts/nuts from the transmission tailshaft at the crossmember and place your floor jack under the transmission tailshaft to take pressure off the crossmember. Unbolt the crossmember and remove it from the car. Leave the floor jack where it is (for now) to prevent the tailshaft dropping and breaking the HEI cap. We will assume that you have unbolted everything that connects the motor to the car, including the exhaust system, fuel system and cooling system. Pull the carburetor. Have a balled-up rag there to catch fuel and to stuff into the intake manifold holes.

      We're going to pull the HEI to prevent its getting broken during this operation.
      Pull the HEI cap and click the starter to bring the rotor to the straight ahead position. Because the distributor is driven by helical gears, the rotor will turn as you remove the HEI from the motor. Pay attention to the orientation of the rotor as you pull the HEI so that you remember where to put it when you begin to put the HEI back into the motor and remember that when the distributor is fully seated back into place, the rotor will be pointed straight ahead.
      Put a piece of tape at the 12:00 Noon position of the front pulley on the front of the motor. This is to remind you not to turn the crank with the distributor out. Stuff a rag into the distributor hole to keep debris out of the motor.

      Now, you have full and unfettered access to the rear of the intake manifold and several bolts that hold it to the block. Your challenge will be to choose two bolts to attach the ends of your chain that will allow you to drop the transmission tailshaft just at the proper angle (remembering to have someone underneath the car to manipulate the floor jack) so that you can pull the engine and transmission as a unit. Ideally, the pan will clear the core support and the top of the transmission will clear the floor at the firewall.

      I can only hope this is the info that you needed. I did this from memory, so hopefully didn't leave anything out.

      When I did this operation, i used to keep a couple of old tires handy to sit the motor and trans on until I could get them to where I wanted to work on them.

      They didn't have these load levelers when I was doing my chores, but you may find it beneficial to use one. I would call around to my buddies and see if someone had one I could borrow before I would buy one.

    1. · moderator
      10,838 Posts
      First thing to do is remove all the front sheet metal and bumper assembly to allow EZ access to the engine compartment. Label and fasten the wiring harness out of the way as we will need to splice into that for the new engine. Just unplug the harness and use no wire cutters on that.

      I would most likely use one of the 5.3 LS with the 4L60 transmission.

      This thing makes this job a lot easier.

      Next thing os that when you get your engine/trans assembly get one that runs well and LEAVE IT ALONE big mistake is made to do engine mods before the engine is mounted in place and running. Found this out the hard way.

      Now that the engine compartment is cleaned out and you have the engine supported on your hoist set the engine/trans into place. I have my plasma cutter fired up so if I need to trim a bit I can do that. You can use blocking to hold the engine/trans in position so you ca measure up for the mounts. Make up your mounts and crossmember and get the engine trans bolted in. Then it is a matter of wiring the engine. connecting the fuel system and figuring out about the radiator. Should be good to go at that point.

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