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   454 with coil over ignition and FI, rebuild questions

   • Gino Pi
   • Nov 6, 2016
   • Hotrodding Basics

   7

   2K

   Nov 7, 2016

    by Gino Pi
   1. 6

      69612

      · Registered

      Joined Jun 11, 2008

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      1,831 Posts

      #7 · Nov 7, 2016

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      find a complete USED motor.. from a crashed truck... hopefully it will be OK..
      
      if rods are thru the oil pan.. and steering parts are gone... somebody put a brick on the gas pedal and blew the motor up... the rev limiter should have caught it.. or they dumped crap thru the intake..
      
      do you have a lot of money invested??
      
      was it yours when it was stolen... or still a uhaul... and you got it for a song..
      
      did they steal the computer out of it also... those get expensive also..
      
      there are issues when engines blow up at full throttle.. or up against the rev limiter... the crank stops.. but the rotational inertia keeps the torque converter rotating.. it will shear the studs right off the front of the converter and it will spin down over the next 30 seconds or so tearing the pilot up on the converter... costing you not just a converter.. sometimes a complete transmission..
      
      you could install depending on smog requirements almost any big block chevy and make it work with a carb and distributor.. you could install a 350 chevy with a Th400 and make it work.. or even a TH350.. but either will work.
      
      
      as for the steering.. there are truck wrecking yards all over the place..
      
      you can look up parts on this site.. so you know what they cost.. almost..
      
      Search GMC Parts
      
      heck... buy a big block suburban and swap the motor in.. it must be a gen VI motor though.. and DON'T THROW out anything till its running.. and then still don't throw it out if you intend on putting an L21 back in it.
      
      you might find a truck with a damaged box and just move your better box onto that one.. there is just so much to know...
      
      so.. search out an L21 or an L29 they came in buses also.. topkicks.. but its only 98 to 2000 i think..
      
      Chevrolet Performance 19207551: 454ci/7.4L Long Block Replacement Engine 1998-2000 GM Bus Chassis with VIN Code L21, LP4 | JEGS
      
      this really is off thread for this forum.
      
      this offsite thread has some great images also..
      
      GM Performance :: View topic - OEM Distributorless 411-powered 454?

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   2. G

      Gino Pi

      · Registered

      Joined Nov 6, 2016

      ·

      5 Posts

      Discussion Starter · #8 · Nov 7, 2016

      Only show this user

      waynep712 said:

      find a complete USED motor.. from a crashed truck... hopefully it will be OK..
      
      if rods are thru the oil pan.. and steering parts are gone... somebody put a brick on the gas pedal and blew the motor up... the rev limiter should have caught it.. or they dumped crap thru the intake..
      
      do you have a lot of money invested??
      
      was it yours when it was stolen... or still a uhaul... and you got it for a song..
      
      did they steal the computer out of it also... those get expensive also..
      
      there are issues when engines blow up at full throttle.. or up against the rev limiter... the crank stops.. but the rotational inertia keeps the torque converter rotating.. it will shear the studs right off the front of the converter and it will spin down over the next 30 seconds or so tearing the pilot up on the converter... costing you not just a converter.. sometimes a complete transmission..
      
      you could install depending on smog requirements almost any big block chevy and make it work with a carb and distributor.. you could install a 350 chevy with a Th400 and make it work.. or even a TH350.. but either will work.
      
      
      as for the steering.. there are truck wrecking yards all over the place..
      
      you can look up parts on this site.. so you know what they cost.. almost..
      
      Search GMC Parts
      
      heck... buy a big block suburban and swap the motor in.. it must be a gen VI motor though.. and DON'T THROW out anything till its running.. and then still don't throw it out if you intend on putting an L21 back in it.
      
      you might find a truck with a damaged box and just move your better box onto that one.. there is just so much to know...
      
      so.. search out an L21 or an L29 they came in buses also.. topkicks.. but its only 98 to 2000 i think..
      
      Chevrolet Performance 19207551: 454ci/7.4L Long Block Replacement Engine 1998-2000 GM Bus Chassis with VIN Code L21, LP4 | JEGS
      
      this really is off thread for this forum.
      
      this offsite thread has some great images also..
      
      GM Performance :: View topic - OEM Distributorless 411-powered 454?

      Click to expand...

      very valid points, thank you! i got the truck from uhaul. it was never returned, until they got a call it was on a highway. they retrieved it, and found the motor was blown. the PS parts are there, but, i noted there was no fluid in the reservoir.
      
      the part about the possible issue with the trans.... THAT RIGHT THERE.... scares the crap out of me. and youre right, it could happen!
      
      the guy at the uhaul kinda convinced me to buy it. it sounded good, at the time... im hoping uhaul will simply credit me on another truck. they might. i paid 2800 for this one. the others are going for about 6500. with 160k plus on them. some have... up to 300.. .but mostly a little over 200k...
      
      ive been a fool. if i find a truck with good compression, its a smooth runner, and its got a decent history(i have a couple choices ready to go actually), then put in GOOD oils(they always run crap oils in these trucks) and do all the little things, like initially run marvel in the oil and gas to get rid of some sludge(is this a bad idea??), then dump the oil and put in synthetic... im thinking some 15-50 mobil 1. and the rest probably 10 30 mobil 1. the motor should be fine from there. i mean , i wont drive this thing 50k miles, in even ten years... i just got caught up in the idea of having a NEW MOTOR for close to the price of the truck with 160k on it... but i think ive been stupid. id rather have a well broken in motor! its going to be more predictable.
      
      any other thoughts? and thanks for finding the NEW motor! i have emails to dealers out right now, but, havent heard back yet. im guessing they will suggest that very motor. and, in all honestly, a NEW motor would maybe be worth it.... IF i knew the trans was OK! but, i DONT! this thing BLEW UP! and its weird. i have to hope uhaul lets me slide on this deal. if not, im going to have to hunt for a used motor! or, go for the new one... hmmmm.... the new one looks so yummy!

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