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    1. · Registered
      1,831 Posts
      Thanks for all the awesome info! We had to do the hearse shuffle today and then move a bunch of the landord's cars, and that basically took all day. The only thing I managed to do was check the sensor itself (yes I found it lol). Looks like the sensor itself is good. So my next step would be to test the other things you mentioned. Although I am thinking that I am just going to take the whole cluster out. I have another cluster, but I am not sure if I want to use it. The plastic cover on the cluster is smashed to pieces on the one thats on her and I do also have the plastic piece to replace that but regardless I have to take the thing out.

      It was really nice to have all the kids out today, even just for a few minutes. I've really gotten over my heard though. They all need so much work.. But I wont give up. The 66 is my project car and now she's out in the open ready to be worked on. I think I'm just going to send the other cars to professionals, or else this stuff is never going to get done.

      The 71 today didnt make that parking pawl noise, but he spewed oil into the street. It's coming from somewhere near the starter it looks like, but I'll make a different post about that. Poor thing lol..

      Come to think of it, maybe I just blew a fuse? Although if that's the case, my worry is why that might be.I don't have a straight up Ohmmeter, just a DVOM and it only has one Ohm setting, but the placement is automatic. Unfortunately I wasnt able to test anything today that involved turning the key on, as she currently has no battery in her. That's next lol... This car at one time was my daily driver. I've kind of let her go a little because I suddenly had 3 hearses to care for, and now I have 4. If only money grew on trees...
      far superior cheep volt meter.. Digital Multimeter - Save on this AC/DC Digital Multimeter

      there are several versions of this test light.. 6/12V Circuit Tester with 5 ft. Lead warning. the wires sometimes break off them. but are easily soldered back on.

      these are standard diagnostic tools.. that without them it makes it hard to do most things on cars..

      if you have cars that use ignition POINTS.. and you don't have a dwell meter... invest in this one instead of the 37772. LCD Automotive Multimeter with Tachometer Kit

      if you have a spare dashboard.. i would keep it around... and check the fuses and power to the fuse first.. its a lot of stuff swapping the dashboard.. these are all individually wired bulbs in holes in the dash... and there are tons of vacuum hoses back there to contend with on 65 and 66 models.
    1. · Registered
      1,831 Posts
      invest in a test light like or similar to this..

      Circuit Tester

      scrounge from the junk yard a tubular dome light bulb.. these have connectors at each end.. they are usually part numbers 211-2..

      with that set up.. and you don't want to leave it on for more than a few seconds.. it will MELT the test light body ... eventually setting it on fire if it does not disconnect first..

      Print this image..

      go in and start probing..

      the WHITE wire should have power when you step on the brake pedal..

      the PURPLE wire comes from the Turn signal flasher.. should cause the flasher to click and the test light bulb to flash when you touch it with the key in the RUN position..

      the BROWN wire is from the hazard flasher.. it should have power key on and key off. usually the same fuse as the stop light switch.. this when probed should cause the hazard flasher to flash and the test light bulb to flash also.

      this tests the 3 inputs to the turn signal switch.. do they work.. conventional bulbs won't draw enough current to make some flashers operate..

      what brand and part number flasher did you buy.. there are 2 usually one for the hazards and one for the turn signals..

      this is where all testing begins.. and it happens with the turn signal connector plugged in..

      now... after you have done those 3 tests..

      turn on the left flasher.. probe the YELLOW wire.. does the test light flash.. probe the dark blue wire.. does the test light flash.. it should..

      turn on the right flasher.. probe the GREEN wire.. the test light should flash.. probe the Light BLUE wire .. the test light should flash.

      this tests the switch and switch wiring.. i have found so many turn signal switch wiring harness cut and just twisted and taped.. no mechanical connection and people expect to have a twisted connection work.

      if you get flashing at all 3 plus 4 wires under the dash.. go out to each corner of the truck.. make sure the test light is grounded.. for the rear lights.. toss out a jumper cable on the ground connected to the negative battery terminal.. clip the test light cilp to that.. probe the yellow then the green wires for the back of the truck.. when you have the turn signal switch in that direction.. if that works..

      probe the grounds... actually touch the bulb shell connector if you can.. perhaps you have a bad ground connection to the tail lights..
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