Hot Rod Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Okay I have a 01 Ford ranger with the 3.0 in it.
I have possible battery, bad ground, or other issues.
It started with the battery being dead. Couldn’t jump it with cables, just wasn’t enough to crank it over. Got a new battery, didn’t fix the issue. Got a new alternator and bench tested it, still did not fix the issue.
Thought the fusible links were bad, so replaced those coming from down by the battery. Still has not fixed the issue. The light on the dash always says “door ajar” because the latches are not the best. I thought maybe it was drawing power and caused a bigger issue, I’ve done some research and people have had issues with the door saying it was always open (the interior light either has the option for 1) door open and light comes on or 2) off but it is broken so I cut the wires and tapped off the ends to make sure they weren’t touching anything .. still nothing. It also has a new starter.
Any ideas? I have tried everything and this is my daily and I can not afford to buy another vehicle right now .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Okay I have a 01 Ford ranger with the 3.0 in it.
I have possible battery, bad ground, or other issues.
It started with the battery being dead. Couldn’t jump it with cables, just wasn’t enough to crank it over. Got a new battery, didn’t fix the issue. Got a new alternator and bench tested it, still did not fix the issue.
Thought the fusible links were bad, so replaced those coming from down by the battery. Still has not fixed the issue. The light on the dash always says “door ajar” because the latches are not the best. I thought maybe it was drawing power and caused a bigger issue, I’ve done some research and people have had issues with the door saying it was always open (the interior light either has the option for 1) door open and light comes on or 2) off but it is broken so I cut the wires and tapped off the ends to make sure they weren’t touching anything .. still nothing. It also has a new starter.
Any ideas? I have tried everything and this is my daily and I can not afford to buy another vehicle right now .
As I recall the fords used MAXI fuses and they have ones that are for charging check your maxi fuses !!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,108 Posts
Is the battery being charged when it is running?
Do you have something draining the battery when the key is off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,603 Posts
Make sure the battery is charging . Disconnect the battery when you park it . Hook the battery back up the next day , does it start ? Its the vehicle . If it doesn't start its the battery .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
382 Posts
So, does the engine crank over? Does the starter click? With a new battery, and starter if it doesn't crank over, or click then it doesn't have anything to do with the alternator. If the starter doesn't click you would need to check the ign switch, or the neutral safety switch or fuses. If you have a manual transmission then it would have a switch on the clutch pedal. I have seen the floor mat bunch up under the clutch pedal and stop you from being able to push the pedal down enough to activate the clutch safety switch.

Also many new or reman Ford starters come with a 5" piece of new wire to replace the end of the smaller wire going to the starter solenoid because they supposedly had problems with internal corrosion at the starter end of that wire.

If the starter turns over but slowly, then you have voltage loss in the battery cables or a bad battery (I know you said you replaced it). Hook up a voltmeter at the starter, gnd wire to the starter housing, positive meter lead to the positive battery cable at the starter solenoid
Have someone crank it over while you watch the meter. Should have a minimum of 9.5 volts while cranking. If less than that, put your voltmeter on the battery posts, not the cables and repeat. Again, should have more than 9.5 volts. If the battery has lots more than at the starter and stays above 9.5 than you are losing too much voltage in your cables.

You can then connect your meter to the battery ground and the engine block and crank it over, this time I would like to see the voltage loss in a cable to be less than 1 volt. If that checks out than do the same thing with the positive battery cable.

My Fluke meter has a min/max recording button so that I can do this by myself. I would actually check the battery voltage while cranking first, then move down to see how much of that is making it to the starter.

Dave

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top