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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have been told you can make a 12 bolt just as strong as a 9 inch, but it takes more power to turn a 9 inch. i have a 98 s-10 with a 450 hp small block ready to go in and a tko 5 spd behind it. i have a 12 bolt and a 9 in. i was wondering which is the better bet. please help.
 

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bww3588 said:
i have been told you can make a 12 bolt just as strong as a 9 inch, but it takes more power to turn a 9 inch. i have a 98 s-10 with a 450 hp small block ready to go in and a tko 5 spd behind it. i have a 12 bolt and a 9 in. i was wondering which is the better bet. please help.
I've heard the same thing. I had a 600+h.p. 454 in front of a 12 bolt posi. (4:10 aftermarket gear-set, everything else factory stock) in a 3200 lb. street rod and never had a problem. It had a 400 turbo tho, might be different with a clutch???
 

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To make the 9 inch really tough you'll likely need to spend a few bucks. The worse thing about the 12 bolt is the axle retention system. If I were in your spot, I'd sell both rigs and buy an 8 3/4 mopar. Factory parts are as tough as a built 9 inch, proper axle retention and the drop out third member like the 9 inch. Cruise to the track with 3:23 gears on a factory LSD and race with the 4:11/4:56 gears on a spool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The 12 bolt i have came out of a 68 camaro ss396. was raced from the day it was bought. was original 4 spd car with 375 hp 402 from factory. had leafspring extenders and lakewood traction bars but thats about it. would that be good enough to hold up to the twisting of a 450hp sbc with not alot of weight in the rearend of my truck???
 

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Either one will work fine.....

My advise....Sell the 12 bolt. A 68 Camaro 12 bolt is worth a fortune to a collector and are very hard to find. Use the money in the 9 in.

68 375hp 402???

Factory 402 didn't come out till 70...........maybe a .030 over 396?
 

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I've heard that the 12 bolt (Salisbury) is actually stiffer and stronger than the 9" or Mopar 8 3/4"(Hotchkiss). Who know for sure? For my money, all other things being equal, you just can't beat the Hotchkiss design features. Easily switchable gear ratio or broken gear replacement, sealed ball bearings, positive axle retention, ease of rebuilding gear sets all fall on the side of the 9".
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
actully 68 was the first year for the factory .030 over bore on the 396's. the end of 68.

my uncle bought the car from the factory special order with the 375 hp 396 and when he decied to rebulld it the bore was .030 over for 402 cid.
 

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I believe that the order as far as strength (standard configuration) goes is:

Dana 60
Ford 9 inch
Chevy 12 bolt
Mopar 8-3/4
57-64 Olds/Pont

The 9 inch is much lighter than the Dana, hence the popularity. I would have to double check on the 8-3/4", but I think the 9 inch is the only one with a pinion end support bearing. Let's face it, all the performance rear end folks didn't settle on the 9 inch for no apparent reason. And you can make a 12 bolt as strong as a 9 inch for a price. Take that same money and put it in a 9 inch and make it that much stronger. (And I am a Chevy lover).

I agree with Poncho. Sell the 12 bolt to a restorer and have all the $ you need to put together a bullet proof 9 inch.
 

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redsdad said:
Let's face it, all the performance rear end folks didn't settle on the 9 inch for no apparent reason. And you can make a 12 bolt as strong as a 9 inch for a price. Take that same money and put it in a 9 inch and make it that much stronger. (And I am a Chevy lover).
I rationalize - I just think to myself that Ford stole the design for the 9" from the grand old '57-'64 Olds/Pontiac design. That makes using a Ford part tolerable. Of course, for the Willys I use a narrowed Olds. Would be sacrilegious to use a 9" there!!
 

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I have a 9" in my "Z", but technically it's not a Ford, it's an Aerospace Components housing with Mark Williams internals. No blue oval part #'s anywhere. :nono:
 

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Check out this Dana 60

I think when I upgrade my rear, I am going with the Strange Dana 60 Unit . For $1,450 complete (less brakes), you get the best of both worlds (strength and cost). Add the Ford Explorer rear brake package for $400 ($385 + $15 to drill Chevy bolt patten) and your cost is $1,850. If you have a few extra coins, add in the aluminum cover for $139 and still under $2k. Add a couple hundred for shipping and your good to go.

Sell both and get the best. Best of luck, Ed www.edgesz28.com

__________________________________________________
Who is Jesus?.:)
 

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I tossed around all those options and ended up not going with any of them:boxing:

I have an ext cab s10 that is going to get a 383TPI put into it. Should have around 350hp and might see 100hp of NO2 if it doesn't do 12's...:mwink:

I went with a 30-spline 8.5" 10-bolt that came out of a 2000 blazer.

Disc brakes will keep the wheel under the truck if you break an axle shaft just like a 9" end will.

10-bolts are alot lighter then a 9" and D60's are just downright HEAVY!

It turned out to be cheeper, easier, lighter, and on par strength wise and was a bolt in (asside from having to shorten the driveshaft a bit). I couldn't turn that down.

Anyways just one more thing to look into...more info here:
http://forums.s-series.org/viewtopic.php?t=33490&highlight=10*+bolt
 
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