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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Whats goin on guys?? Have any of you ever used a chevy head # 14101083?? Im trying to figure out if they are worth using. I have had them sittin in the basement for a while now and if I were to use them it would be on a pretty much stock engine but only if they are worth using. Does anyone know the flow specs on these. Im wanting to know if these could make some decent numbers. There are tons of engine ID sites but I never can find info I need. Any help is much appreciated..

Thanks:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I know that these heads are 64cc but all those engine ID websites don't give any other info. The only other thing I have read was that they came on early 90's 350 HP crate engines but don't know if that's true. Does any one know how the intake and exhaust runners flow? Like I said I don't want to get rid of them if I can use them to make a good 350 HP street engine someday. Hopefully someone who have used them will know. Thanks guys
 

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L98 head

Those heads you speak of were probably one of the better heads in the 1980s before the Vortec head was introduced. Although not aluminum they were the cast iron version of the L98 head. They are real similar to the 217 head which was used on a marine application and a crate motor as well. Xtremefi is using those heads building 355 TBI engines. They are claiming they are making about 317-320 hp with them with a roller cam with like 209 [email protected] and .455 lift. I don't have flow data on them but I can tell you they will definitely outflow the factory TBI heads easily and really make for a way better upgrade on a TBI application.
 

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looks like these heads flow around 200 cfm or a little less. You wont be building any 400 plus horse power engines with these heads. If you are building a stock engine then stock heads perform as they are supposed to perform
 

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Whats goin on guys?? Have any of you ever used a chevy head # 14101083?? Im trying to figure out if they are worth using. I have had them sittin in the basement for a while now and if I were to use them it would be on a pretty much stock engine but only if they are worth using. Does anyone know the flow specs on these. Im wanting to know if these could make some decent numbers. There are tons of engine ID sites but I never can find info I need. Any help is much appreciated..

Thanks:thumbup:
This is the cast iron version of the Corvette/Z28, aluminum L98 head, you need to check the angle of the center intake bolts as this casting makes 2 part numbers one with the center bolts at 90 degrees to the mating surface for 1986 and earlier intakes it is P/N 10159552; the other is PN/10125377 for 1987 and newer intakes with the 72 degree angle between the bolts and mounting face. It is a decent head it is especially useful as a performance replacement for trucks that have TBI and Swirl Port heads as it is essentially the same as the SP head without the vane where the owner/builder doesn't want to go to Vortec heads with the attentive intake manifold exchange the Votec heads need.

These are a substantinal improvement over older the large chamber factory smog heads as well. Not as good as Vortecs and similar aftermarket heads , but not too trashy either.

Bogie
 

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Sink $300 to 500 into them to make them righteous for a valve job,seals,guides,etc.Then if you want to play with spare parts,you got bolt on heads ready to go.

Do they have the bolt holes on the ends??.

They are the wrong heads for a 383 though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
These have been sittin in the basement and I just wanted to know if they were useful. I do not plan on using these on a big project build. Simply a stock to very very mild build in the future. Maybe practice some porting. I did find some info on guys who have ported these and got better flow numbers than vortecs but that is alot of time and dedication and I dont know how much material I can take out.

Thanks guys.
 

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Whats goin on guys?? Have any of you ever used a chevy head # 14101083?? Im trying to figure out if they are worth using. I have had them sittin in the basement for a while now and if I were to use them it would be on a pretty much stock engine but only if they are worth using. Does anyone know the flow specs on these. Im wanting to know if these could make some decent numbers. There are tons of engine ID sites but I never can find info I need. Any help is much appreciated..

Thanks:thumbup:
GMPP says:

P/n 10125377 SBC Cast Iron L98 Center Bolt Valve Cover Head.
This is a cast iron cylinder head assembly used on 285 hp 350 engine (P/N 12353641). This complete cylinder head assembly includes 1.94” intake valves, 1.50” exhaust valves, valve springs (P/N 3901068) and valve spring caps (P/N 14003978).
Technical Notes: This cylinder head has 64cc chambers. The cast number for this head is 14101083 or 14096217. This cylinder head has 1987 and later inlet manifold bolt pattern. The center two bolts are at a 72° angle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ill port them myself. Now I have practiced porting on heads for endless hours but what I still dont get is how Im supposed to tell if I made all the runners the same. I mean its very possible that by doing it myself that when Im done none of them will be the same. Does it matter if one flows just a little differently than others and so on?????
 

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Ill port them myself. Now I have practiced porting on heads for endless hours but what I still dont get is how Im supposed to tell if I made all the runners the same. I mean its very possible that by doing it myself that when Im done none of them will be the same. Does it matter if one flows just a little differently than others and so on?????
Yes it does.It is one of the main reasons why RHS purchased a high dollar CNC machine and all those yrs of R & D was downloaded into it.
As I suggested in another post why you would best suited to build a home flow bench first.Flying blind is returning to caveman tech of all too many yrs ago.
Any suggestion that is doesn't matter,the source doesn't have enough practical experience.:nono:
 

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Or another way of looking at it is the same theory behind using non equal length headers- they will tend to lower- but BROADEN- the powerband. Same thing w/ports that are not exactly the same. And w/production iron heads, there's a LOT of room for improvement, regardless if the ports are identical or not.

But w/novices I will always recommend have the guides done, and an accurate 3-angle valve job, and back cut the valves if they have the ability or a few extra dollars in the budget. Then at home stick to the low-hanging fruit: do the bowls, clean the flash and port match the intake (NOT gasket match!) and match the headers and gaskets to the exhaust ports. Leave the short side alone. Do not reshape anything. Leave the valve size stock 1.94" x 1.5".

Otherwise, spend the money on a set of aftermarket heads.
 

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Fully port the intake and exhaust ports. Yes smooth and blend the short side radius.
Yes smooth and steamline the vavle guide boss to create two strong flow paths around the guide boss.
Do not fuss over wether the ports vary in flow by 1 or 2 cfm.
just make them visually as close as you can. The critical part that matters is the size of the push rod pinch area.
create a guage to check sizes.
Good result can be had with the stock valves. But on these head once fully ported a 2.02x 1.60 valve
or a 2.05x 1.60 valve set works very very well.
These headss need generous porting for good results. But use a felpro 1205 gasket as a guide.
Again do not fuss over minor variation in port flow.
This BS advice is from people who have never ported a cylinder head or actual built high performance engines.
How did we all create powerfull race engines before CNC porting and the internet?

These heads are capable of 260+cfm when fully ported with a 2.05" valve.
You can hit about 240cfm with a 1.94" valve.
which is a big gain from 198cfm stock.. 1-2-3 cfm don't mean squat.
Don;t be shy with the porting and do not listen to amateurs.
Racers have been sucessfully hand porting stock SBC cylinder heads
and getting big air flow and horsepower gains without CNC machines or flow benchs, since 1955.
I have been doing this for 35+ years. Long before CNC porting.
You can too.
We have been porting heads and port matching heads long before 1955.Having learned the mistakes from "back in the day" we have moved forward and corrected those errors.There are some that just can't let go of the"back in the day" thinking a 12 second car was fast.
 

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Ill port them myself. Now I have practiced porting on heads for endless hours but what I still dont get is how Im supposed to tell if I made all the runners the same. I mean its very possible that by doing it myself that when Im done none of them will be the same. Does it matter if one flows just a little differently than others and so on?????
The most important feature is the shape of the port and not it's size or intake runner size.We have learned over the yrs a good understand of a/f dynamics and how the shape of a port effects that and applying that to porting a head.That the cross section of a port is more important than the runner size.

That it takes time and experience to get it right and verification with a flow bench through trial and error. If you truly want to take it to the next level,do a search to start learning more.It is useless for you to have to go through the same things we did from the 50's to the 90's and then call it all good.

Maybe what bugs me the most,is a suggestion you ignore all during that time what we learned. That is maybe the single most important thing that has made such a huge difference from the very old school way of doing things.
 

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Telling people w/o any experience to alter the short side radius is just wrong IMO. You seem to think that no harm can be done to a cylinder head regardless of how much is hacked out of it. You (should) know better.

If you were "passing out" anything of real value other than green lighting hogging hell out of a head, then you'd send each of these people templates that could be duplicated in brass, of all the important radii/sections of the ports. In this case, I don't even see good photos- which leave a lot open to interpretation even if there were a hundred of them.
 
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