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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For years I’ve wanted to design and fabricate a 1930’s style race car. These style cars are pretty simple and are perfect for a beginner.
This would be my first attempt at fabricating a frame and body. I have experience in paint and body, upholstery and electrical.
My metal forming started with hammered copper artwork and later the lower cab replacement panels for my 1937 Dodge pickup.
The first real job I had was as a design draftsman, so scale drawings were no problem.

I started fabrication in early 2017 and got it street legal by mid 2020. There are over 4000 man hours in the car and 95% of the work was done
while working a full time job. The end result is a decent attempt for a novice builder. The project was challenging but well worth every minute.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's got a SBC with a T5 transmission. I wanted to use a 1960's Jaguar 6 cylinder but I couldn't justify the cost for what is basically a replica build.
I didn't have access to a louver press so that's why there's 16 exhaust tubes on the hood, had to get the heat out somehow.

Here's a list of the components

Engine - SBC 350 Crate motor, Edelbrock 3x2 intake with Speedway Motors Stromberg 97 copies
Transmission - Borg Warner T5 5 speed
Clutch - Stock Chevy Pressure Plate and clutch with Wilwood pedal and master and Mcleod hydraulic throwout bearing
Differential - 2000 S10 Blazer with a custom made Torque Arm
Front Axel - 4" drop tube with Speedway Motors GM metric calipers
Shocks - 1960's MGB rear shocks used Front and Rear
Springs - Late 30's - early 40's Ford pickup leaf springs front and rear
Steering - Vega manual box
Brakes - Wilwood pedals and masters, front calipers Speedway Motors GM metric, rear calipers GM Blazer
Power/Starter switch - NOS Delco Remey WWII B-26 bomber magneto switch, I modified the switch for use as main power and starter
Weight - 1350 lbs
 

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Nice work. Beautiful car. If that S10 Rear is a PosiLock, get rid of it before it kills you or puts you in a ditch. They only lock after one rear wheel starts spinning. It sends the car into a violent fish tail that is uncontrollable. The Posi Lock or sometimes called a Governor Lock was designed to help get you unstuck when in snow or mud by applying throttle SLOWLY to get the differential to lock and provide a true 2 wheel drive. They are OK with a stock 4 or V6. Forget it with a potent V8 and a light car like mine and yours. I nearly rolled my '48 Austin with an S10 Posi Lock under acceleration. I think some drag strips wont allow them because they are so dangerous and they explode on launch. Even if you don't race it, get it outta there. I now have a true Limited Slip Differential (LSD) 8.8" with 31 spline axles from a '97 Ford Explorer narrowed on left side with another right side axle. Much, much, much better, stronger and very controllable under acceleration. Click and read below:


Save your car and possibly your life!!!
 
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