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The color my 33 Ply will be
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I am putting a 360 magnum 380hp with a 727 trans in a 1933 Plymouth 4dr sedan. I have several questions and would appreciate any info. No racing of any kind, just cruising up to 70mph and maybe a burnout or two.
I have put disc brakes on the front and upgraded to a power brake setup.

1. Does anyone know if the rear end is strong enough the handle as a streetrodder?
2. When leveling the engine by the carb surface, does the trans pan have to be level in relation to the ground?
 

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2. When leveling the engine by the carb surface, does the trans pan have to be level in relation to the ground?
Got in a hurry and missed this question.
Take a look at this rendering.....
http://gomotors.net/photos/3a/7a/buick-wildcat-ii-concept-car-1954-wallpaper_2bc03.jpg
The pan looks to be angled at about 3 degrees in relation to the centerline of the output shaft, so yeah, the pan would be about level with the ground with the engine/transmission package angled down at the rear about 3 degrees (carburetor pad level). Don't be concerned about the transmission pan. If you get the carb pad level, the transmission pan will come along for the ride.
 

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The rear axle is pretty weak, and I'm sure time hasn't made it stronger. Parts will cost more than a decent donor axle too, so a new one is a bargain comparatively. The trans doesn't need to be level, but remember you need the pinion angle and trans angles (in relationship to the driveline) to match, so they cancel vibrations.
 

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The color my 33 Ply will be
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Discussion Starter #11
JBVFLA, Here is the link to the guy I got bushings from. He has a list of the parts needed to complete the conversion. Headsup...he does sloppy work, my he forgot to tap the caliper plates for the slider pin. The bushing for the inner bearing was not sized correctly but I used emery cloth and a half hour of elbow grease to get them to fit correctly. Some conversions need the bushings and some don't, there are different size spindles for the 1933. He gives a list of NAPA parts but I converted the numbers to RockAuto, saved a hundred bucks. I have found no one else that makes the bushings or caliper plates. All told I have around $700 into the conversion but I had to have the bushings, if no bushings are needed for your conversion, it should only be a little over $400 for all the parts.
Good Luck Mopar Discbrakes | RustyHope.com
 

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The color my 33 Ply will be
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Techinspector1, Why do you say that? I was really miffed at some of the jerks comments here and almost just ditched this forum. I was trying to get some comments on maybe updates I could do for the rear.
You gave some real info and I appreciate it. After checking my angles by what you said, they were correct. I was concerned because the trans pan (its tampered already), was even more at at angle and I am concerned the trans my have issues getting oil.
Now it looks like I will have steering issues. I have the even level both directions. I am using a unisteer and had no trouble getting it level and parallel with the tie rod. I put the headers on and it looks like (by eyeballing with measurements) the headers will be in the way. Since I have the body off, I won't be able to really work with it till the body is back on the frame...in maybe a year. I still have to take everything off the frame, get it blasted, paint/powder coat a lot of parts and reassemble it all and try to get the body work done in-between it all.
Here are some pics. Thanks again for your suggestions.
 

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The color my 33 Ply will be
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Discussion Starter #13
These are pics of my projects
The 1933 Plymouth 4dr is the way I got it but the fenders and hood were all there and has minimal rust, just in the floor pan.
The 1963 Ranchero was a steel for $500. It will get a 351W 400hp with a T5 trans.
 

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The color my 33 Ply will be
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Discussion Starter #15
burrpenick, The stock magnum engine came with around 300hp, adding the typical stuff of boring, intake, carb, cam, and headers will get it to the 380hp area. The stock heads will take up to .500 lift which I plan to stay under with a comp cam.
 

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I'm a little puzzled Fordlover1? I only saw one guy who gave a joking reply, not several? So maybe you might be a little thin skinned, if the one comment that was out of line made you generalize more answers as "comments from jerks". Most of us would love to assist and be helpful. But sometimes when answers are given, we never hear from the original poster again. I think the delay in your reply made Tech1 think you might have disappeared. Glad you came back, and thanks for posting the pictures!
 

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1933 Plymouth 4dr sedan. No racing of any kind, just cruising up to 70mph and maybe a burnout or two. Does anyone know if the rear end is strong enough the handle as a streetrodder?
. The stock rear end prolly cruise to 70 or 100 fine... but most rear ends get iffy with drag racing and burnouts... which is a waste of tires and a killer of rear ends... let your wallet be your guide...
.
 

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What is the bolt pattern for the front discs, then match the rear so you don't have to have custom axles. My son's 36 plymouth coupe came with front disc's on the tube axle. we have no idea how it was done. there are some 70's Mopar axles that will fit and have more strength . also the ford 8.8 is easily beefed up with C clip eliminators and a heavy duty rear cover. and either should fit.
 
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