[joeford]

Ok....I've got the chassis, steering rack, IFS, rear end, wheels, brake disc, booster, and lines installed....Now what?
I'm thinking I'm ready for a radiator, and engine block, a tranny housing, gas tank, and maybe a recessed firewall. Am I missing anything?

Once I've got this stuff mounted I should be ready for fitting the body on the chassis. I'm assuming I should do a complete mock on this to insure fit and alignment. Right?

Next I would assume would be the steering linkage, column, and wheel. Right?

Please only someone who has done this before need respond....It's challenging enough.

I do have one question. How do I know where to mount the gas tank, so that the rigid neck will lineup with the hole in the fender? Or perhaps I should just sit it in place, place the body on the chassis, and mark the tank, where it lines up....Seems like I have seen others go ahead and mount the tank....

Also, how do you know where to place the body on the chassis? I suppose the grille and hood will somewhat dictate how far back the body needs to go. Any tips on this? Again, please only those who have been through the process need reply. Thanks....

 

[pasadenahotrod]

Where to install components is easy on a stock or modified stock frame because all off the mounitng holes are already there.
If you have a fabricated frame with no holes you've got a tough road ahead of you.

 

[54truck]

My first HotRod was a chopped 36 Ford 3 window coupe with a Nailhead Buick. Got it back in 65. It is presently being professionally restored in Martin, Tn. I visited it a few months ago. What part of the state are you located in? Our shop is about 150 miles Southwest of Nashville. Bud

 

[dinger]

Check out my journal and project for some ideas, I'm building a 36 5window. I have a Ford Van gas tank, 76 vintage, rear tank. I believe there are some after market tanks out there for some very reasonable prices. Dan

 

[joeford]

36 Build

Thanks....I may have spoke to quick on the gas tank issue....There are a series of threaded holes across the top of the frame. In as much as I understand, Henry had no bolt patterns, so I assumed the holes in the top of my TCI frame (see journal), were not necessarily strategically planned.

I'm going to contact them and see if the frame was tapped with a specific tank or bracket in mind.

 

[trees]

Joefor, I think you will need to place your body back on the frame in it's final resting spot. This spot is critical because the running boards bolt to the frame and locates the fenders which bolt to the body. The grill shell and hood will not marry up correctly if there is any misalignment any where in this process!!! Once the body is located, then you can start mocking up your engine, but your radiator is part of the grill shell/hood so you have to locate the radiator placement before locating the motor. If you are going with a SBC, you will need to modify your firewall to get distributor and tranny/bell housing clearance and will have to check for clearances on the X member. A SBF is about 2.5 inches longer than the SBC unless you can come up with a shorter water pump so your firewall/Xmember clearance problems requires a bigger modification to the firewall/floor pan and X member. An old style Bronco oil pan and oil pickup tube will solve the SBF front sump issue.

You don't want to hear this, but I think you can look forward to putting the body on and off a couple of times to get this right. Been there: done that. PM me your location in Tenn. I may be close enough to drop in and share a bit of knowledge since I have done a couple or more of these old Fords!!

Trees

Trees

 

[home brew]

Looking at your pic of the TCI frame it looks like you have your engine mounts, rad mount and trans mount already there. I would assume that TCI knows what they are doing and you could go ahead and mount these things. But as trees says you will have to mount your body at some point to see where the firewall interferes with the engine and /or trans. I am guessing that TCI or Yogi's has a firewall replacement that will work for you as well if you don't want to cut up yours. Have you heard about your gas tank yet?

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[trees]

Joefor, I went through your journal after my post and can add some more info. The TCI frame is drilled and set up for your car. The most forward bolt hole on the side rails near the front part of the X member is where the most forward bolt hole in your body will line up. This is checked out by the pockets in the bottom sides fit up with the ears on the side of the frame well. There will be holes in the side of the ears to line up with the holes in the pockets. There is going to be a little slop here in the bolting process since the holes in the body tend to be over sized and the holes in the frame should be fairly close fit. This will let you move the body ever so slightly and , trust me, you may have to do that. Another item that helps you locate is the very back of the frame. The body slips down over it and the bumper retaining bolts go thru the bumper brace, body and frame end and torques down. Spacers can be added to move the body aft slightly, but it is very difficult to move the body forward. This is not a good place to use a BFH after you have painted your body and frame!!!! I could not tell, but some of the holes in the original frame rails are square for the use of carriage bolts in mounting the running boards. Don't know if TCI does that or not. Yes the Radiator supports are mounted and drilled. I suggest you order a Walker Radiator since they make a very good one for the 36. You will have to decide if you are going to use air and auto tranny before you order because you may want to go all out and order the radiator with the condenser and tranny cooler installed. Get the largest capacity they offer. Griffin is another company that will offer one as well, but it will be aluminum. The motor mounts and tranny mount is there as well so you will need to know what they are for (you probably do since you should have provided that infor when you ordered the frame). B I T C H I N (had to type this way so bad language censor will not blot out) make a great firewall replacement with the desired recess built in. If your old fire wall is beat up and full of holes, this is the way to go. There are other vendors that make replacement firewalls so shop around. I have the name of one of these that make just as good a product, but will have to look it up in my files if you want it.

Trees