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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This build has been going on for a while now, so I'll try to post some quick updates to get up to speed.
I've owned this car for almost 30 years now. Started on it with no money or a real place to work on it. Life got in the way, go shelved for a while.
Dragged it out about 5 years ago. I wasn't happy with anything I had previously done. I scraped everything but the outer shell, fenders etc and the rear end.

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
First item on the agenda was a new frame. I Figured out planned ride height, tire size etc drew it up in CAD and fired up the plasma table. Tossed a sheet of 3/16" on the table a few minutes later the rear rails were ready.
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Set up on the frame table and tacked together
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Going to be an interesting build, I'm in. What are the future plans, i.e. family touring, local shows...? Drivetrain?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Going to be an interesting build, I'm in. What are the future plans, i.e. family touring, local shows...? Drivetrain?
I plan to drive it as much as I can, car shows, tours, holidays etc.
I'm running a 5.3L Vortec 4L60E out of an 2004 Chevy pickup with a Ford 9" rear diff. I'll show this in my future posts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mid rails are 2"X5" X 3/16" tubing, tacked them in and worked on the back section made from 2"X4" X 3/16" tubing. Measured out and placed the front cross member in position.
Are the corners are rounded, as I hate square corners.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Notched the cross member for 4 X 2 rails and tacked them in place, Measured and calculated ride height, wheel base etc and positioned the front cross member to where it should go. Tack welded the frame and cross members to the frame table. Saves clamps and nothing moves.
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Now to connect the two rails together. The most direct way between 2 points is a straight line. Boring. So, some drawing, figuring and guess work I cut out a set of pieces and curved them to fit. Nothing elaborate, just used a piece of heavy tubing over a piece of channel in a press and slowly worked it till it fit.
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Welded them into place on the back side with MIG. I will grind out a fillet on the out side of the joint and properly TIG it together after I get the whole frame together and can rotate it to a better position.
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Excellent work! Surprised you didn't have to notch the front rails to get the A arms closer together. When I built my '39 frame I had to do that.

Are you going to use drive by wire? Stock intake? Factory EFI?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Excellent work! Surprised you didn't have to notch the front rails to get the A arms closer together. When I built my '39 frame I had to do that.

Are you going to use drive by wire? Stock intake? Factory EFI?
Thanks.
Stock factory EFI, drive by wire, only thing was to delete the VATS. I wanted to keep the car emission compliant (including convertors). The powers that be in Ontario are trying to make sport of busting hot rodders from stories I've heard. One less hassle to deal with down the road.
 

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I also used the factory intake but smoothed it out to look a BIT better. Of course the oil pan has to be changed also.

Where did you get the frame measurements? Rear suspension?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I also used the factory intake but smoothed it out to look a BIT better. Of course the oil pan has to be changed also.

Where did you get the frame measurements? Rear suspension?
I built a cover for the intake, yep, they don't make them much uglier than that.
I found a 98-02 F-body oil pan etc used locally.
Used the factory wheel base measurement when I built the frame, 112.25" if I remember correctly.
Rear suspension, you just have to wait for my next post.
The stuff I have been posting has been done for a while. I'm just doing a full build post to show the whole build instead of jumping in where I'm at now.
 

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Hey Mike.
Glad to see you posting here.
Subscribed.
 

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I love those 37-38 sedans! It's great that you have the talent to design the frame and the equipment to build it. I wouldn't now where to start. 😮
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks Pugsy, I will do my best to cover this build.

Located the rear diff in place and set pinion angle. Cut plates to tack weld in it to place. This will hold it solid while I make up the rear suspension mounts and brackets.
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Made up some lower control arms out of 1" DOM tubing. After much trial and error and head scratching I come up with lower axle and bag mount combination.
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Made upper bag mounts and tacked them into place.
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Rear shocks mounts were made up and installed. Machined a threaded bung to accept a 1/2" bolt and made up a at ride height shock mock up out of 1" square tubing. That located where the upper mount was to go. Drilled a hole in the shock mount cross member at that location and installed the rear shocks. Just a set of Speedway street rod shocks. Installing them on an angle gives me a little more suspension travel.
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Next part I found the hardest so far, locating and installing the upper control arms. I first had to cap the top of the rear frame rails. I cut a couple of pieces of 3/16" just wide enough to sit on top of the side pieces so I could get a nice outside corner joint. Formed the bends by hand just tweeking them as needed to follow the rail.
I measured up length required and made upper arms out of 1" DOM tubing. Trying hold the arm in the right plane and angle to be able make a template to measure and cut. Then have be able to locate the exact spot and angle on the other side. One thing I find great about having CNC plasma cut parts is being able to use them to check measurements side to side. If the parts fit the same side to side you know everything is straight and square.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Spend some time capping the rear rails.
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With everything about done on the top side that I could do. I had to release the frame from the jig to flip it over. I welded in some X bracing to help hold shape because the frame isn't fully welded yet.
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I wondered how much the frame would spring after I cut the tack welds. 5 minutes later, I found out. About 1/2" in the rear and 1/4" in the front.
I knew it would because I have only welded on the top. I figure it will move again once I weld the bottom so I'm not worried about that right now. It didn't twist, just curled a little bit.
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Got a couple of questions. What's the thickness of the lower bag mounts? Looks to be thinner than the upper. Why did you settle on that type of bag? I used double convoluted 2500# on mine to give a softer ride. Will be interesting to see what the ride on yours will be like. Are you going to run an air tank or just compressor direct to the bags? Last, how did you pick the shocks (stroke, minimum/max length, application)? Sorry for all the questions, just very interested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Got a couple of questions. What's the thickness of the lower bag mounts? Looks to be thinner than the upper. Why did you settle on that type of bag? I used double convoluted 2500# on mine to give a softer ride. Will be interesting to see what the ride on yours will be like. Are you going to run an air tank or just compressor direct to the bags? Last, how did you pick the shocks (stroke, minimum/max length, application)? Sorry for all the questions, just very interested.
All the brackets and mounts etc are made from 3/16" mild steel.
The rolling sleeve bag give smoother ride and have a longer stroke than the double convoluted. Double convoluted work better in places like double A arm front suspension, or mounting them directly to the control arm.
I bought a complete Accuair air suspension system with 4 corner ride height sensors. Sadly Accuair, went belly up before I could even get the system together and tested.
The front shocks came with the Mustang II suspension "kit" I bought. Rears were just found at Speedway with the right measurements and easy mounting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Flipped the frame over and welded up the bottom side.

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I finished welding the bottom side, flipped it over to finish the top and set it back on the frame table to see how much the frame had twisted back. I was surprised and very happy to see see most of the curl came back after welding up the bottom. The only 2 spots still out were on the right rear in front of the axle, it was off the table by 1/16". The right rear behind the axle was up .3 degrees. The 1/2" curl at the back and the 1/4" curl at the front were gone. I decided to try a few shrinks to see if I could get them any better. The curl behind came out back to level and got the gap down to about .020". Close enough for me.
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With most of the chassis work done I wanted to get it off the table cause next is body fitment time. Bolted on the wheels and dropped it on the floor.
X brace is temporary until I build the proper center section.
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