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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Had to build the gas tank before I could build the floor. Measured,cut and bent some 1/8" 5052 aluminum. I wish I had my press brake at this time, it would have made this a lot easier.
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How much of the back seat to you think you will lose? What did you use for a fuel pump? Will you be using the Corvette style filter/regulator? Sorry for the questions .
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
How much of the back seat to you think you will lose? What did you use for a fuel pump? Will you be using the Corvette style filter/regulator? Sorry for the questions .
Back seat, maybe all. Head room is going to be tight, still plan to chop it.
Fuel assembly from an 2004 Chevy pickup, same as the donor engine, returnless. I built the fuel tank to accommodate it.
Don't apologize for asking questions, if I can inform, help or entertain it's worth it.
 

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I was able to keep lots of my back seat, just had to narrow it but will still fit two back there. I used a TANKS tank in my build. Had to move the frame rails in for the tires then back out for the tank.
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I have enough width for the back seat, the floor to roof height is questionable. I wanted the car low with only a slight rake. My rule when building is nothing below the frame rails. That pushes everything up. The rear seat area gets sacrificed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Time for the engine mounting, 2004 5.3L LM7 with 4L60E trans. Tossed it in the frame, leveled and squared. Tack welded a 2X2 tube to the bottom of the frame to hold the trans up and shim it to location. Started to make engine mounts. I had already made up the block mounts, just a matter of locating the engine and making some tabs to the frame.
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Engine, trans and rear diff in place measured up for a drive shaft. Guy on KIJIJI says he has a GM one exactly right length. Come home with it only to find out it's a Dodge.
Now I have to make a GM yoke fit a Dodge shaft to a Ford rear diff. Measured every thing up, looked up the specs on dennysdriveshaft website, found the joints I needed. Down to my favorite autoparts store. $45 later I got 2 joints and driveshaft in place. No pictures of this as it's mostly dodge parts, didn't figure any one would want to see them.
Starting making a new floor pan. Laid out a framework of 3/4" square tube, flat bar rolled for over the trans tunnel. Throw a sheet of 18 gauge on the CNC plasma table cut out some pieces. Slip rolled, bead rolled and bent in all the right spots and temporarily held in place with sheet metal screws.
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
One of the most critical parts of the build as far as I'm concerned brake , gas, steering column and seating position. If it ain't comfortable to drive or awkward to reach the pedals it takes the fun out of driving it.
First is the brake pedal, most cars it's about 7"-8" off the floor and 24" from rest the the steering wheel. The brake has to have sufficient travel for full stroke. Then the steering column is centered over the seat. Where the steering goes through the firewall has to clear the engine. Usually the pedal and column want to occupy the same area too. So with much head scratching, trial, error and a few mock ups. Drill some holes and locate the booster. Build under dash bar to mount column. Cut off brake pedal cause it hitting steering column. Throw away factory pedal booster mount bracket cause it ain't working. Draw up new one in CAD. Cut, tack, position, better. Cut and bend 2nd brake pedal to go around column. Ok. Cut hole in floor a little bigger to move column slightly, Be prepared to make another firewall repair. sigh. Steering shaft can't get between exhaust and shock mount. Cut off new shock mount. Throw away. Mock up steering. Will work now. Make new shock mounts. Cool, they look better than the first ones. Modify gas pedal so it will sit properly. Position as far to the right as possible, at rest slightly lower than the brake pedal. Make mount. Mock up seat, climb in. Not time for vroom, vroom noises yet. Check for comfort, steering wheel, centered, dash visible? check. Brake pedal, easy reach, could come over to the right about and inch. No problem do later. Gas pedal looks good. Make up lower column mount. 2 pieces, piece 1 round flange to be welded on column. Piece 2, mating flange to first flange, short length of tube and small hole in end for the shaft to pass through. Second piece will be welded to the floor later. Cut out all the previous patches in the firewall and make one big repair. Much better. Make up shifter bracket to be welded to the floor.
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I had left off the front frame horns because I was sure where they needed to be to clear the fenders. Mocked up the front sheet metal to check clearances. Figured out where to end the ends of the frame, also had to figure how and where to put the front sway bar. Mocked up, measured, drew pieces out in CAD, cut out. Screwed up, threw out started again. Had to narrow the frame in 1" to be able to mount my sway bar. I just moved over the ends and will make filler pieces to make it more esthetic. Bolted on the sway bar and now have to make mounts on the lower control arms.
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I welded the nuts for the sway bar in before the welded the horns together.
I also welded some 1/2" nuts on the inside and outside of the frame horns. I figured I may run a bumper or a set of nerf bars or a chin bar so it was easy to do it now.
If I don't end up using them I can either put some bolts in or weld them up later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Made up a couple of mounts for the control arms. Checked clearances to the bags and found them a little tight for my liking. So I trimmed the corner 3/4" and welded it up.
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I started to mount the alternator, I wanted it low and out of the way. I had to mount as close the block as possible for clearance to the steering shaft. There are kits where can drill and tap the upper hole in the block but it was to close the steering shaft. So as with most of my stuff I designed my own brackets. 2 bolts from the waterpump and there is a hole on the side of the block to mount a bracket to. Measure, cut, weld, grind and make a spacer on the lathe, done.
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I wanted to get the fuel injection wiring sorted out instead of it lying there intimidating me. I got the wiring diagrams, connector pinouts, etc. Most people who run these engines usually discard any thing that doesn't make it run. I wanted to keep all the systems except for the anti theft intact. It requires more fuses, wiring and thinking. The ECU will be mounted under the dash instead of under the battery like the trucks do. I am trying to keep this modular too like newer cars, IE not have to cut the harness apart to extract it from the car. The OE fuse block was way to bulky and didn't need all the circuits, At the scrap yard I managed to pick up 3 fuse blocks from the sunfire/cavalier family.
They are fairly simple and can be repinned almost any way you like. This is what they look like when you get them.
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Removed all the fuses and relays, removed back cover, remove all the wiring and cleaned. Followed wires, labeled, made notes, drew diagrams, studied wiring diagrams.
Cut, soldered, and repinned till it looked like this.
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Excellent chassis work. I see the rat rods with the square kick ups and just don't look righr. We were at BO Huff's shop a few years ago and he was doing the contoured frame like your are doing. I started on a new roadster frame. A friend was (RIP,blake died way too young from heart problems The "Bowling Ball Cannon" - YouTube ) a pro welder and we took 2 X 6 tube and sliced the flat 6 in side so we had the rounded corner top and bottom the cap our re shaped sides
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
The rear fenders need to be an inch wider for tires clearance. After search for 20 plus years for a RR fender I found this, I knew it wasn't great but better than anything I had so far. It had some previous rust repairs done and filled with lead. Fender must have weighted 30 pounds. I sanded all the primer off and got the torch out to melt it all out. I want to redo the patch in the back. It's got a bad twist in it too.
My plan is to build an extended flange on the body then cut off the original and weld the two together. I plan to weld the rear fenders on in the end because I like the molded look better and there's no way I'm ever going to make the fitment nice enough to bolt it together.
I got a fairly good start on building the flange over the last 2 days.
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I plan to rework the back edges of the fenders where they meet the tail panel. I want to trim the leading edge of the fender in order to tighten up the running board to the body.
 

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