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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Working the front fenders to fit better so I can start on the running boards. I'm going to build them with an instep and raise them an inch to tuck them in.
Clamped the original boards to the fenders and bent up some 1" tube for edge profile, laying it on top to get an idea of how it will look.
I clamped a piece of 1" X 1" square tube to level and square to draw the cut line on the fender.
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Making a new section for the bottom of the rear fender. Need to fix it be fore I can start the running boards.
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I cut 1" off the bottom of the fender, laid it on a piece of 16 gauge tacked it on and trimmed the outside edge. I finished enough to make sure it was ok so I could start the running board.
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I then lined up the tube and profiled it to the rear fender. Made up mounting brackets to go to the frame.
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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Using all the knowledge I learned from Pugsy's one day learn to pound sheet metal course it was time to rebuild the RR fender. This ugly mess had to go. Modifications were required to blend where the fender meets the body as it was just kinda hanging in midair.
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Nobody makes patch panels for these fenders either. I ordered some curved sheet metal to fix it but it showed up flat, supplier told it ships better this way.
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I cut out an oversize piece and started pounding a running it through a borrowed English wheel.
I quickly realized that I had to do some shrinking to make it rounder. I don't have a wooden stump or a tucking fork so I built the Tuck-O-Matic 9000.
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Getting real close.
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No turning back now.
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Success, will finish up the bottom edge later.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Using all the knowledge I learned from Pugsy's one day learn to pound sheet metal course it was time to rebuild the RR fender. This ugly mess had to go. Modifications were required to blend where the fender meets the body as it was just kinda hanging in midair.

Nobody makes patch panels for these fenders either. I ordered some curved sheet metal to fix it but it showed up flat, supplier told it ships better this way.

I cut out an oversize piece and started pounding a running it through a borrowed English wheel.
I quickly realized that I had to do some shrinking to make it rounder. I don't have a wooden stump or a tucking fork so I built the Tuck-O-Matic 9000.


Getting real close.


No turning back now.


Success, will finish up the bottom edge later.

Very good, young Grasshopper.....ha.

Love the tucking device.
Looks like you can get some nice accurate tucks, exactly where you want them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I wanted to be able to lock the car when I was away from it so I ordered some Autoloc door latches with locking feature and install pieces to make things go a bit quicker. Got the parts, started to assemble and saw this. The striker pin is crooked by about 10 degrees. Made in China crap.
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A quick call back to Summit racing and and they are sending another pair of install pieces, N/C. Didn't even want to see the old ones or send them back. Just waiting for them to show up, I hope they are better.
I am putting the new latches in the same area as the originals. In order make them fit, first cut out a big section of door, hold up new latch, then say oh ****. Window track and window in the way. In order make them fit and be able to make them removable, the window track has to be shortened, and I made a new lock lever to go around the window. I will have to make a bolt piece of window channel to replace it.
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I stumbled across these Cadillac tail lights at a flea market, After some careful calculations I found they would fit nicely, the contour just about matches perfectly. Measure, cut, trim and ready for welding in. I haven't welded them in yet because I can't seal or paint anything in the tail panel after I weld them in.
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Putting bearclaws in my '39 two door was VERY tight but managed to get them in and clearing the window track. Mine also have the locking feature but things were just too tight to get them to operate. An alternative for door locks is to use a solenoid operated door pin located in the quarter panel just in front of the back seat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Putting bearclaws in my '39 two door was VERY tight but managed to get them in and clearing the window track. Mine also have the locking feature but things were just too tight to get them to operate. An alternative for door locks is to use a solenoid operated door pin located in the quarter panel just in front of the back seat.
There was absolutely no way mine would fit without cutting out the door section. I figured that's why you don't see many 37/38 Chevs with bear claw latches.
I plan to put in a manual lock button too, like all the old cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Eliminating the vent windows ended up being way more involved than I first thought. I figured a few trims and tweaks. I ended up cutting out the whole inner door structure.
Rebuilding it gave me a good excuse to put my dimple die set to good use.
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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Working on taking some of the ugly out of the firewall.
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Cleaned up and looking way better. Just a little bit left to do before primer and filler.
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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Working on an under dash panel. A couple of tries before I got something I was happy with. The radio will go in the cut out hole. Planning to put the heater controls between the steering column and the radio. I built it in 3 sections starting with the radio mount, then right side storage and finally left side. All made out of .093" aluminum.
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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
I needed some brackets to mount my seats, they're from a late 80's early 90's Dodge Charger.
So measure and draw.
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Cut and clean.
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Bend.
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Dimple.
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Finished.
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Installed.
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Nice stuff there Mike.
Them brackets look cool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Using a Vintage Air kit, I ordered the brackets to mount the compressor down low in the original location. Hoping it would fit, almost. I modified the lower mount and the compressor to rotate in tighter to the engine. Made a new upper mount. The belt tensionor hit the steering rack. So using some old Toyota parts I made up a new unit to tighten the belt.
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Now the thermostat housing was too close to the compressor. Cut the base off the housing and made up the rest from a piece of 1.25" schedule 40 aluminum pipe.
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