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I have two 1949 F1 Ford trucks a project that I am preparing to start on. I see there is an artical on Crankshaft Coalition Wiki Titled "Mounting a 48-52 F1 pickup on an S10 frame". I have not been able to get this page open. I am not sure this is the way I want to go, but would like to check it out. Please help me if you can. I would also appreciate any advice or suggestion anyone has for this project.

bcovey
 

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Good Luck

I am building a 54 Chevy Truck on a 95 S-10 frame. Just got the body, engine and trans removed down to a rolling chassis. I did not take the brake system off. Just unbolted the master cylinder and left the brake lines attached, mounted to a temporary support. Bud
 

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Having done many engine swaps and a few frame swaps, I'll give you my take on this. Most of these frame swaps I've seen were not thought through fully before starting. By that I mean that the builder will install the frame more or less complete as original and then go through all sorts of modifications to get the attitude of the truck where he wants it. By that I mean cutting springs, altered spindles, etc., etc.

My way of doing it is to cut the front and rear clips off the frame and make a boxed section of tubing to replace the original under-cab portion of the frame, then position the cab at the height and attitude I want the truck to be (ride height), then weld the front and rear clips back on by Z-ing them. This way, you have the original front and rear geometry for the suspension and everything works like it should, except the truck is lowered and/or raked to perfection.
 

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techinspector1 said:
Having done many engine swaps and a few frame swaps, I'll give you my take on this. Most of these frame swaps I've seen were not thought through fully before starting. By that I mean that the builder will install the frame more or less complete as original and then go through all sorts of modifications to get the attitude of the truck where he wants it. By that I mean cutting springs, altered spindles, etc., etc.

My way of doing it is to cut the front and rear clips off the frame and make a boxed section of tubing to replace the original under-cab portion of the frame, then position the cab at the height and attitude I want the truck to be (ride height), then weld the front and rear clips back on by Z-ing them. This way, you have the original front and rear geometry for the suspension and everything works like it should, except the truck is lowered and/or raked to perfection.
I have an S-10 chassis and was thinking of doing exactly that with it..I think it would work much better and be a nicer job this way..

Sam
 

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Well, F-1 is already stripped and off the frame. But still solid.

I have a Ranger with a junked out body, but a great chassis.

Used Lakota's website for most of the information, and I think it should actually work out. Ranger frame is 34-Inches wide, and is a little more simple than an S-10.
 

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Good Frosty said:
Well, F-1 is already stripped and off the frame. But still solid.

I have a Ranger with a junked out body, but a great chassis.

Used Lakota's website for most of the information, and I think it should actually work out. Ranger frame is 34-Inches wide, and is a little more simple than an S-10.

Problem with a older ranger is the twin I Beam. If you miss the ride height and decide to cut coils....you get crazy camber.
 

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The main reason I went with an S-10 frame was cost. I got IFS, power steering, power disc brakes, and lowered almost a foot. After selling off the body parts, the total cost was zero. The only changes I made was to replace the bearings, brakes, brake hoses, and rear end swap. The geometry stayed the same. There was no need to use dropped spindles, or rear blocks. The total cost of all that was under $200. I spent weeks flat on my back under S-10's in junk yards taking measurements during the day, and at night on the internet researching the swap, and went through a half dozen drawing pads.
I've done IFS, front clips, and stepped frames in the past. No need in the S-10. The frame is already stepped 3" in the front and 7" in the rear. I did look at the Ranger frame, it was closer to the F-1 frame than the S-10. The newer ones had IFS, but everyone I saw was bent or raped for parts. The older Ranger frames had swing-arm suspension like the old 70's Ford F-100.
As far as fit, a hole drilled here and there, some work with a tin snip, and the cab bolted right to the frame. The front fenders were mounted with angle iron at the front, and bolted to the body. More tin snip work for the inner fenders. The bed was raised the usual 2 1/2", and all I lost out of the bed depth was 4". My biggest headache was the mount for the radiator. I didn't have the original and had to fabricate one out of angle iron.
Yeah, a lot of guys said I was wrong in doing it, I should have done it another way. That's why it took me so long to do it. I weighed each one of their comments carefully. I even had one guy tell me that the S-10 frame would make my F1 steer and feel like a truck...I still trying to figure out that one.

By the way...The S-10 longbed is 117" WB. The Ranger shortbed is 113" WB
 

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Well, I'm pretty sure it will work out.

I used those measurements, then measured from the center of the front hub, back 74 inches, and well, its pretty much 3-5 inches longer than the Ranger, no problem there. The bed is a few inches shorter. I think the ride heigth won't be too high, and it won't bottom out either.


Now I just need to go pick up the rest of my F1.
 

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Yeah, the S-10 frame is workable. Stock, the frame sits about 11" from the ground with 15" rims, 9" with 14" rims. The height of the tires will also change the height. Keep in mind that the lowest part of the frame sits in even with the front spindle. Remember to change the rearend out for one from an S-10 4X4, it's 4" wider. The stock F1 rearend is 52" at the plates The 2X4 rearend is only 48" wide at the plates. Your bed is 49". Try to get one from an 89 or newer V6 4X4. Look on the plate on the glove compartment door. If it says the rearend is a GU6 (3:42), take it. It will give you better fuel mileage. Here's the RPO codes:

GT4-3:73
GT5-4:10
GT7-3:33
GT8-4:10

GTY-???

GU1-2:41
GU2-2:73
GU4-3:08
GU5-3:23
GU6-3:42

G80-Posi
HO4-4:11
 

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I asked this Q about a week ago and was refered to the lakota site.I have 2 complete trucks and have had them for 10 + years.one cab has been sitting in primer for years.But they are trucks F-6.I've been looking for 1/2 ton frames for a long time.I've done other frame swaps of other pu cabs and ran into all kinds of problems.After reading Lakotas page ,I think he's done his homework, I went out and looked at S-10 frames.the average price is $200-$300.One wrecking yard will even let me take the whole S-10 home and strip it as long as I bring the parts back.Looks like the way to go for me ,at a resonable price and have the up grades.Thanks for your site Lakota ....Tom
 

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Anytime Tom,

That's what the site is for. I went through this over a year ago, trying to get info on the S-10 swap. Everyone that did the swap either forgot what they did, or just didn't bother to reply. I got all the info on my own, did the math work, and pieced it together. When it all fit, I tore it all apart and redid it with photos, and details. The site was created for guys like me, looking for info on the web, or a needle in a haystack. As you do the swap, you may find ways to do the swap easier or better than I did it.
 

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Thanks I saved your web site in my book marks the measuring I was talking about was my 53. I accidentally bought this L110 off of EBay so now I am figuring on building it into a cruiser complete with all the bells and whistles.
 

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bigun said:
...I accidentally bought this L110 off of EBay...
I'm curious how one goes about "accidentally" buying nice old rod material off Ebay...because I really need a better excuse to use with my wife than "oh, I'm just getting this for a friend."
 

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Well first off I ain't married! Now on to the sordid story.
Nov. 2004 I was looking through the EBay listings for parts vehicles as my way of saving time I was looking at those with in 500 miles from home. There was an ad selling a 1953 L110 opening bid was $73. when I was a kid we had an old binder so I watched it no body bid on it. Then the seller put it up for bid again this time I bid the minimum thinking that if I open the bid there is always some one who'll come along and out bid you if you are the opening bidder. WRONG!!! No body else bid on it. The story of getting home is another tale in itself.
Pictures of it and my hybrid jeep are in my album
Ok I did a search and came up with my original post
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/new-project-home-53-binder-69484.html?highlight=binder
 
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