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1957 Chevy 3200 with the original 283
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a barn find (61000 miles) 1957 Chevy 3200 truck. I rebuilt the Rochester 2G that came on it and got it running. I’ve driven it around 1000 miles very reliably. It sat for around a month and I attempted to start it to take it for a spin and fuel puked out of the vent on top of the 2G (float sticking). I don’t want to rebuild it but I would buy one if I could find a rebuilt or new one. Problem is they don’t seem to be out there. What’s everyone using as a direct replacement. I’d like to keep it as close to factory looking as possible.
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Cool old truck! I like it. Why not just remove the needle and seat and blow it out - nothing like the original for originality. Then put a good filter on right in front of the carb. 10 micron with some capacity advised to filter out old rust/scale from tank. Probably a new carb would also malfunction after a while. But don't forget to check the float for having gas in it. Also for sediment in the fuel bowl that should be removed.

For example: Earls 731166ERL Vapor Guard Fuel Filter, 10 Micron
 

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Welcome to Hotrodders. I edited the thread title. We do not use thread titles like: HELP! here. Place proper information in the thread title for the members to read.. thanks
 
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Lots of great tech over on stovebolt if you want to keep it stock.
Here is a fun list of carbs/engines.

You should be able to use the numbers as refrences to find a modern equivalent.

Personally I love running a monojet B on inlines. There are hundreds of variations of the B though and it of course needs to be matched to the airflow. As far as the intake goes you can drill and tap studs even if you need to fill in previous holes.
The B is a simple carb and once dialed in is stupid reliable especially with a mechanical choke.
 

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1957 Chevy 3200 with the original 283
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you all for the responses ans compliments! I found an autoline rebuilt carb. For 257$ so I bought it. If it doesn’t work it’s gettin a Holley sniper efi kit and I’ll forget the stock look! It is a 283 and it ran well before the carb problem! I imagine it has some crap in the needle seat. I got the filter suggested above and I’m gonna put it on before I put the new carb on. I’ll post a video of it running when I get there again. Thank you all!
 

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the 'Duracell Project'
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efi would be the best thing to do for drivability and cold start issues, imo
of course that opens up a new can of worms... return line, electric pump
 

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Stick with carb, Holley sniper is not plug and play like they say it is, it takes a lot of work to get it to run correctly on old cars. I knowI have been dealing with it for about 3 years now.
Check out the Holley sniper forum and you will see.

if you want EFI I would look into the GM obd1 TBI kits for 6 cylinder jeeps.
Something like this.

 

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I have a barn find (61000 miles) 1957 Chevy 3200 truck. I rebuilt the Rochester 2G that came on it and got it running. I’ve driven it around 1000 miles very reliably. It sat for around a month and I attempted to start it to take it for a spin and fuel puked out of the vent on top of the 2G (float sticking). I don’t want to rebuild it but I would buy one if I could find a rebuilt or new one. Problem is they don’t seem to be out there. What’s everyone using as a direct replacement. I’d like to keep it as close to factory looking as possible.
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I'm doing a 64 GTO convertible with a 455 and tri power, those 2 jet carbs don't like much more than 3 1/2# fuel pressure. Most pumps have way more than that. Put a good low pressure regulator on it, not that Mr. Gasket twist dial thing.
 

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1957 Chevy 3200 with the original 283
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The new carb is waiting for me at home. I’m out of town but I’m heading home tomorrow and I’ll get some engine and intirior pics up.
 
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