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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter #401
Of course we gotta fill in the hole in back of fender .....

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Seen this coming from a mile away.....D'OH!



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"It's gonna get worse before it gets better"....seems I heard that somewheres.
This is just with the shrinking disc. Haven't even pulled the torch out yet. Well, I did, just too disgusted to take any pics.

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter #403
Yep.

Here's a hell of a thing to do to a pretty much flat panel:

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter #406
Looks like skim coat from there. Nice job of getting it that straight.
Thanks.
It is quite dented nonetheless and will show more when I hit with epoxy.
The key though was bringing all that metal in. That was a ton of shrink to do.

I may have to shrink the door next as edge welding has caused a wee bit of the same issue.

Got the hinges rebuilt. Even found them roller thingies and springs. I don't care how much anyone squawks about lousy aftermarket stuff. I think we are very fortunate to have it available.

I drilled out all the hinge holes and installed only the splined bushings.

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Springs were totally missing and one roller gone as well.
Damn, I just noticed something posting this pic. If you look closely, you can see the "knife" shape that matches the tower it was riding on. I'll have to tear it apart and square up that edge.

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Correcting misalignment so pins slide thru without being whacked and damaging the new bushings.


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After squeezing new bushings into probably slightly undersized holes, they needed a tinch of cleanup. I rolled up a piece of emery cloth and chucked it up. Very soft and did not cut too much at a time.


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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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5,086 Posts
Discussion Starter #408
Nice kit. But what's up with the 6 lousy bushings?
I call them that as they can eventually start rotating in the holes causing wear on the outside as well as the inside.
I'm running all 8 splined ones now.

I found the tightness to be the pins, not the bushings. If you turn it just so, it slides thru then stops, turn, it goes more etc.
That's why such a light cleanup with the emery cloth.
If the hinge arms aren't lined up dead on, whack a mole to get the new pins in. Not good.

I'm sure you're aware, just posting for our viewers at home.
 
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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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5,086 Posts
Discussion Starter #409
All patches done!
Wait, I think I said that before. Let's see if I'm correct this time.

Where I had to cut the top front corner of the door skin off, the fold over lip was too small since it was in the wrong place. Had to weld a little strip in there.

For the rust at the door hinge, I only used some tacks so I wouldn't warp the door at this stage. I will use seam sealer after epoxy primer to close the gap.

It may be awhile for the next update as I now need to prep for epoxy.


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the 'Duracell Project'
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2,371 Posts
i like where this elco is headed, nice work
but i have to ask... did you inherit the yard stick?
slotted wood screws? how old is your yard stick? 🤣

 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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5,086 Posts
Discussion Starter #411
i like where this elco is headed, nice work
but i have to ask... did you inherit the yard stick?
slotted wood screws? how old is your yard stick? 🤣
Thanks.

It's some kind of flexible plastic that I bought new about five years ago for checking contours on panels.
Didn't even notice the slotted wood screws business.
I'd like to get a few more but never see them for sale anywhere.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter #412
D'OH!
Just realized why I haven't seen them for sale around here. We use real screws with square drives.
Must be an American ruler.
 

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the 'Duracell Project'
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2,371 Posts
even down here you'd be hard pressed to buy flathead screws beyond the mid-70s
same up there, the technology for mass produced square and phillips didn't exist
in the 80s i saw a 50s screw machine at work making tiny electrical flat head screws
you couldn't see individual screws coming off the machine, just a blur
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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5,086 Posts
Discussion Starter #414
I sure hope you all got square (Robertson) drive screws now. They stick to the bit without being magnetic.
 

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Slow but willing learner
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5,210 Posts
Check this thread out Pugsy from the SPI forum. Barry addresses the above issue.


John
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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5,086 Posts
Discussion Starter #416
Check this thread out Pugsy from the SPI forum. Barry addresses the above issue.


John
Right on.
I'll start with both fenders and filler panels.

Do you know how long after Bondo has been on a car one could apply more?
Is it the same idea or can you say, a month and a half later, add some more?
 

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Slow but willing learner
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5,210 Posts
Right on.
I'll start with both fenders and filler panels.

Do you know how long after Bondo has been on a car one could apply more?
Is it the same idea or can you say, a month and a half later, add some more?
It would be ok to put more filler on filler but I probably would not want to put the next application of filler over the exposed epoxy that is now 6 weeks old.

John
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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5,086 Posts
Discussion Starter #418
It would be ok to put more filler on filler but I probably would not want to put the next application of filler over the exposed epoxy that is now 6 weeks old.

John
That's why I plan to skim wide and long enough to cover my butt.
Not that my butt needs a long and wide amount, er....I mean.....I got a plan if I see myself running out of time.
 
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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter #420
Paint shop open for business. Just lift CURSE up out of the way and work underneath.


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Header and filler panels pretty much filled and sanded. I will see more spots after I hit them with epoxy again, I'm sure.


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The center shrunk a ton from the welded patch there so I did a bit of sculpting using the trim as a guide.



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