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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everybody, so I picked up this 1969 Mercedes 280SE W108.018 last June with the hopes of completing it by the February, obviously I missed my target by a few days... Well now I am setting aside my prior problems, mainly procrastination, and am finally hitting the car hard now. I built and blueprinted this SBC 350 last May and have just picked up a Borg Warner T-10 a few days ago.

I will let the pictures do the talking until I have something to say or someone has a question.


Just realized I don't have any good pictures except for this one from the night I bought it...



























































Por15











Cam Bearings




Installed Cam




Balanced Crank




Setup




NASCAR and Porsche only balance to 5grams out of balance, I later got it down to 0.5grams but didnt take a pic of it.




Install Crank and Pistons







 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Cut seats and assembled the heads.

















Got some pics of the porting, sorry for the crappy blurring and focusing my camera was running out of power.








Intakes are just pocket ported, Exhausts have a full port. Both intake and exhaust ports were port matched, De-burred and the "Cliffs of Death" were removed and smoothed out.












Took off the TBI Manifold that was just covering the valley.



Put on the Carb Manifold and indexed the new bolts.



Installed the new HEI Distributor, sorry it was getting dark.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just ordered the last of the parts to get the engine running except for the drive belt assembly and alternator. In the past few days I have also purchased a Borg Warner T10 with aftermarket internals and a Hurst shifter as well as a bell housing, flywheel, clutch linkage kit and clutch kit.

I will be getting back into California on the 10th and plan on hitting this project hard so that I can finally enjoy what I am sinking all this money into.





 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So I got a bit done tonight, I ended up pulling the oil pan since I had a new 1 piece oil pan gasket and found some unwanted friends.... There were these 2 small chunks of cast iron sitting in the bottom of the pan, not something you want to find on an engine that has never been run...

Other than that everything else looked good. Tomorrow I am getting the oil pan, timing chain cover, valve covers and intake manifold ready for paint.





 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
While I have a few things taking apart I was planning on repainting the oil pan, valve covers, intake manifold and timing chain cover to spice things up a bit. A friend suggested CAT yellow which I am pretty much sold on.

Any ideas for colors?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well the trans I bought supposedly had an aftermarket set of internals but the guy didn't know what the manufacturer was nor did he know the gear ratios... Well it turns out the gear ratios are pretty bad *** and I cannot find another Sag/Muncie/Borg with anything like it...

Standard Close Ratio
2.20 1.64 1.31 1.00

Standard Wide Ratio
2.54 1.89 1.51 1.00

Mystery Ratio
3.50 2.48 1.65 1.00

This is gonna be interesting...

 

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That 3:50 low gear is a real "granny low" stump puller - maybe for a truck? It may redline somewhere around 10 mph! :D

The gear spacing is gonna give about a bazillion RPM drop on every shift.

Also note that "your" third is the same ratio as second on a "normal" close-ratio box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That 3:50 low gear is a real "granny low" stump puller - maybe for a truck? It may redline somewhere around 10 mph! :D

The gear spacing is gonna give about a bazillion RPM drop on every shift.

Also note that "your" third is the same ratio as second on a "normal" close-ratio box.
That's what I was think for the trans, but I thought that most trucks used Muncie M62's or SM465's or something. Originally I was looking for an early NV4500 so I could have the 6.30:1 first gear :D.

I ran the numbers on everything and it's all good, all of them end at 1:1 anyways :p

BTW thanks for responding, its nice to know that I am not talking to myself here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Finally made some more progress, Carb, Distributor and Water Pump will go on very soon. I am hoping to get this running by the end of October, only thing hold me back right now is money...

It's CAT Yellow by the way...







 

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What kind of flywheel are you going to use? The one piece seal engines use a different flywheel than the 2 piece seal engines. If the bellhousing is made for the flywheel with the 10.5 inch clutch, it won't work with a 11 inch clutch. GM made a lite weight flywheel for the 1 piece seal engines with a 10.5 inch clutch, it weighs about 1/2 of the standard flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What kind of flywheel are you going to use? The one piece seal engines use a different flywheel than the 2 piece seal engines. If the bellhousing is made for the flywheel with the 10.5 inch clutch, it won't work with a 11 inch clutch. GM made a lite weight flywheel for the 1 piece seal engines with a 10.5 inch clutch, it weighs about 1/2 of the standard flywheel.
Crossed that bridge a few months ago, I just got a standard 153-tooth 2-piece rear main flywheel.
 

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I thought you might have had a 1 piece seal engine since you mentioned the 1 piece seal oil pan. I have both the 10.5 and 11 inch flywheels for a 2 piece seal engine, I also have a billet flywheel. That's a Saginaw 4 speed transmission.
 

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A Saginaw 4 speed has the reverse shift lever on the side cover. A Muncie and T10 have the reverse lever on the tailshaft housing. Just looking at one of the older car 4 speeds you can tell it from a 3 speed. 4 speeds use 3 shift levers and a 3 speed only uses 2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Looking good! I like the yellow. :)
I thought you might have had a 1 piece seal engine since you mentioned the 1 piece seal oil pan. I have both the 10.5 and 11 inch flywheels for a 2 piece seal engine, I also have a billet flywheel. That's a Saginaw 4 speed transmission.
Well ****.... I don't know how I didn't notice that before... So I have a Saginaw then :p

Mine is a 2-piece rear main (1981 Camaro Block) and that bell housing is for a 153-tooth flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So I am still accumulating parts at the moment, starting a new job in a few days so I should be making some more progress here shortly.

Figure I would ask if anybody has run into this problem before... I am trying to find a 2 or 3 Pedal assembly that is floor mounted, cheapest I can find are these Tiltons that are $200 and $400 before another $160-$240 in master cylinders.

Anybody know of anything cheaper or possible a different way to approach this?

I would love a sponsor :p

http://www.tiltonracing.com/sites/d...loads/files/Tilton2012 - Pedal Assemblies.pdf

Tilton Floor Mount Pedal Assemblies 72-603 - SummitRacing.com

Tilton Floor Mount Pedal Assemblies 72-604 - SummitRacing.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Finally got around to starting on the car itself now, considering I have owned it for 2 years now....

Got the engine running but the carb still needs some work, once that is in order I can break in the cam.

Interior is all stripped out now and i'm in the middle of taking out the sound deadening, found a bit of rust and made a few holes myself but nothing that cant be fixed in a few seconds.

Made some seat brackets that I will put in place once I have everything cleaned and painted (the picture is kind of misleading, when installed the longer side sits level, that's how steep the angle of the floor pan is)























 

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im building a ratrod fom very simular car

im building a ratrod fom very simular car mine is a 1968 220 mercades benz had lot more rust but very im useing it but have another 1961 or as a parts doner along with another 1961 i think i got thats fuel injucted 6 cyl.lol fun to fo a franky build lol
 
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