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You don't need to go 6500 rpm or higher to be fast. Consider more than rpm when you want to go fast. HP, cubic inches, and torque should be your main factors. And if your engine builds those at under 6,000 rpm, then you'll be much quicker in 1/4 mile than most of the street cars around you.
I never take my 454 BBC over 6,000 rpm (intentionally!) and I'm pleased with how it holds it's own against cars that wind to 7,000 rpm easily.
 

· Teen Hot Rodder
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Hmmmm.... Duely noted guys. So what did that 383 make? And if its only $3400 it beats the engine I have now at $5500.... I'm gonna go with a 383 now, for sure. Hmmmmmm....... I'd like a lower compression than 11 though, I'd like ?10.5:1 if I could.....
 

· More for Less Racer
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Hmmmm.... Duely noted guys. So what did that 383 make? And if its only $3400 it beats the engine I have now at $5500.... I'm gonna go with a 383 now, for sure. Hmmmmmm....... I'd like a lower compression than 11 though, I'd like ?10.5:1 if I could.....
It pushes the 3650lb El Camino down the track at 11.10's @ 117 MPH on pump gas, 10.60's @ 122 MPH on a 175 HP nitrous shot w/race fuel.

No idea how much power it makes, never been engine dyno'd. Easily 550+HP though, to put that much weight at that time slip.

Skip White(whiteperformance1) and Fred White(WhitePerformanceMachine)on Ebay have some real good deals on 383 stroker kits at the $1000 or less level. Here is one example: 6.0" rods
383 Assembly Scat Crank 6" Rods Wiseco 030 Flat Top Pistons 2pc RMS 5 64 6 0 | eBay
5.70" rods 383 Assembly Scat Crank 5 7" Rods Wiseco 030 Flat TP Pistons 2pc RMS 5 64 5 7 | eBay

You'll find some kits $50 or so cheaper with Eagle cast cranks, but the SCAT cranks and SCAT rods are considered much better pieces. You'll also find cheaper kits with Hypereutectic pistons in them, but Forged pistons are much stronger. Many cheaper kits also don't include harmonic damper and flexplate.
 

· More for Less Racer
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A car running 11.1s at 117 mph is leaving hard,obviously the owner knows how to tune the car and is using slicks. A $3400 dollar engine is possible if you do a lot of the work yourself. Great post Eric
1.54 second sixty foot, on 315/60-15" Mickey Thompson Drag Radials(basically the same size as 30 x 12.5 ET Drag slicks), Powerglide trans, 4000 stall, 5.13 gear.
The 5.13's are just a bit too much, should have either 4.88's or 4.71's...but the owner is just happy running the hell out of it.
A lot of people still think that it's a lot of gear, but it is a TALL tire.

The roller cam, harmonic damper, and aluminum timing cover were all bought used, everything else was new. Cam is a Herbert, scored for just $67 on Ebay.
 

· Cars, Trucks, Boats, Motorcycl
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8,401 Posts
. Of course a big block would fit, it was an ordinary option earlier in that body series... but a hot small block will blow away the big blocks they were using by then... even the earlier ones...


. We don't talk stroke:bore... we talk bore:stroke... and a 383 is still an oversquare engine that likes to rev with bigger 4.030" bore compared to still smaller 3.75 stroke... and, like Eric correctly pointed out, by '78 Camaros had gotten heavy, so more cubes/torque comes in handy...


. The RPM intake and 750 DP would work well on the new engine...


. Building an engine that gets good MPG isn't just about MPG, it's a more efficient engine... and an engine that uses half the gas for the same power lasts longer with half as much gas washing the lubrication off the cylinder walls... and all the gas burning instead of washing off lube and polluting the exhaust...


. LOL! Just got interrupted by a loud noise, a long trailer full of dirt track cars just arrived for the build/storage building behind my garage... wasn't sure if it sounded like a car or a motorcycle out there... OK, where were we?


. Sometimes gauges can be all 'hooked up', but not work because the instrument panel lost it's ground connection, very common...


. The 305 should have idled fine with the 750 DP... it just wasn't tuned right... or it had a huge cam...


. Any cam above a 208/208 is going to lope at idle... each step bigger makes the lope worse... the lope is actually an undesirable side effect of bigger cams... but I know kids think they want one like other racers have... kinda like a fart can muffler on a poseur ricer...


. Didn't we explain all this to you before in a different thread?
.
 

· Teen Hot Rodder
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58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
No, I don't think you did. I'll look for a good cam and I'd like no more than about 240° of duration with like 110 or 108 lobe separation. I'll see what I can find..... Otherwise, I'll build that engine to be pretty wild. The guages have good ground, that's always what I check first. They just got old after a while I suppose....plus the last owner did some awful wiring.....
 

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GM staggered the rear shocks in an attempt to cure some annoying wheel hop. An attempt. Possibly you are in the planning stages of the suspension and may want to research the issue. This thread sure brings back some memories.
 

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843 Posts
Keep up with the times, get an LS engine! It will give you more power for less money than an old-style SBC...
Look at a junkyard, low miles 6.0 litre (that's 364ci) out of a truck (you can swap to carb if you really need to play with a carb but factory EFI is easy and has so much potential, it is hard to believe!), swap cam (maybe heads) and there, cheap, powerful, reliable, even good on gas (yeah I know you said it does not matter, but that is more money for A/C, gauges, or chicks!).
And they love to rev!
A 4-speed trans is also a cool thing to have, it allows a shorter rear end ratio while keeping highway driving bearable (less engine RPM, less noise, less wear...).
 

· More for Less Racer
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As far as your Google sheets list goes, I can find several items to do better on either price or quality.
-Better rotating assembly then the Eagle kit listed, it only has hyper pistons
-Better deal on aluminum heads with similar flow numbers at 1/2 that price
-ProForm rockers are not that good, and you don't want self-guided rockers on a head with guideplates on it, the two alignment methods will bind with each other.
-FluidDamper is overly expensive and not the best idea, some crank companies won't even warrantee a crank run with a FluidDamper on it. The rotating assembly I pointed you to already has one matched to it also.
-The oilpan you've listed is for a 2-piece rear seal block, but you are buying a 1-piece seal block.
-A custom torque converter is much better than an off-the-shelf fits-all from TCI, for near the same price.
-Stock starter will do just fine, don't need that fancy race starter and expense.
-Don't use platinum or iridium small tip plugs in a performance engine, the tip will burn off due to its small size not being able to deal with sudden high heat loads(instant WOT). Use Autolite o NGK standard tip or race plugs.
-You don't need an ignition module if you are using an MSD box, the box already has a module in it, box hooks directly to the magnetic pick-up in the distributor.
-Forget the sparkplug washers, waste of time for marginal if any gain.

-You're missing head bolts, flexplate-to-crank and converter bolts, balancer bolt, pushrods, and camshaft retainer plate.

that's my view of the particulars of the list. :)
 
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