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Race it, Don't rice it!
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Geranlly no, its possible the carb was rich to begin with but now, the exhaust is requiring a carb calibration change, but in general, it's going to be pretty small change.
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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8,545 Posts
No stupid questions....I mean at when effort is put in, anyway
I can't see your engine from here so I can't tell you what to think. I'd do some diagnosing and try to figure out where the oil is going and weigh that problem with your abilities for repair and the cost of a replacement. Whats it worth to YOU? I'd start with a leak down test.

Common oil consumption area....
Intake to head interface
Intake bolts at the head
Valve seals
Rocker stud threads
Oil rings
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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8,545 Posts
That plugs shows 100 percent oil deposits. Oil is being pulled into the chamber from somewhere.
Send a bore scope down the carb to the backs of the intake valves and see what they look like. If they are clean, it's the ring package. If they are also ugly, it's the intake gasket, Intake bolts, valve guide seals, or rocker studs.
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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8,545 Posts
Sorry, I don't have a scope but will try to get one.
I am still confused and would really appreciate any answers to these questions.

What is the smell of gas from?
Who knows. Use your nose.
Should the fuel tank have a vented or unvented fuel cap?
Vented if it's not vented somewhere else
Should the fuel pump return line be reconnected (why would anyone disconnect it)?
Depends....need more details.
Could no fuel regulator cause the oil in the chamber?
No
Could a very restricted air filter drag the oil vapour into the chamber?
Yes....
And has the reduced back pressure also made it rich and a little worse?
possible...Not probable you would notice
(I noticed a trend here, where boy racers put on an oversized exhaust system on their
1.6 litre and then the back of their car is black, from black smoke out the pipes)
People are stupid
If I put on a regulator, do i need a return line from it too? (Or no as mechanical pump
Depends on the system. Need more details of how its plumbed. Most likely not

Thanks to all for your help!
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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8,545 Posts
Good to see the paper work. I wonder if there is a way to confirm that engine SN with something on the paper work.
I see the short block specs so I think for now it's reasonable to think the short block is good and so the next step is verifying the heads and age on those.
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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8,545 Posts
Ok that's useful tips, i will switch the distributor vac to carb and see if any difference.
And i fully intend to clean up engine bay, when/if i get it sorted.
The interior needs a few things doing also. Hard to get time with wife and 3 kids.
She's already busting my ass for spending more time on the car than the kids.
Ahh, we'll get there.
I have a Haynes manual, first thing i bought off Rock auto. But it seems very basic.
There is no test, not even a safety. If there was I wouldn't have bought it, as I would be worried it wouldn't pass.
Thanks
take the kids with you and she can’t complain about nothing, or trade her in for another cool car.
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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8,545 Posts
No liquid. It's not needed and add a potential for problems your don't want.
If a liquid shows up cheap, you can pull the rubber plug and drain it.
 
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