How about the head casting number underneath the valve cover? That will ID the heads that you have.
Cool info, thanks for thatThe 42GM on the block identifies the casting mold used.
It looks like the distributor hose is connected to the PCV hose, why did they do that?Vacuum lines.
You need a dedicated vacuum hose for your distributor vacuum pot. Plug it into the capped port on the drivers side of carb.
You need a dedicated separate hose for the pcv valve. It plugs into the spot you currently have it on.
the bigger hose beside your fuel inlet is a carb vent line to your charcoal canister. Not needed if you’re not using the canister. If you want to use the canister let us know, we’ll tell you how to hook it up.
the smaller black hose beside the inlet I can’t see where it goes.
here’s an emissions decal for your car. It might be for a Pontiac 301 but your 305 Chevy would be the same.
Condition: New. Finally available correct emissions decal for 1981 Trans Am with the non-turbo 301 motor. Brought to you by an owner of 1981 TA who grew frustrated with not finding this decal anywhere.www.ebay.com
Ok, choke vent makes sense. And I did see on a youtube video that the distributor has its own port.They teed it togethor because they didn’t know any better and it was likely easy to do.
‘If you’re not using the canister just leave as is. Not hurting anything. Don’t take it off and throw it away. They’re hard to find.
I think that small hose is an air supply for venting the electric choke coil. There’s a vacuum port inside the choke that pulls air past the coil to keep it from overheating.
I bought a 80 t/a off the showroom floor in the spring of 1980. Was yellow with the non turbo 301.
what color is yours?
You must have really wanted that TA, yellow must have been rockin!Have you even checked fuel pressure?
You might not need a regulator.
Look in the carb while it’s warmed up and idling. If you see any raw fuel then you need to fix that. A simple float level adjustment might fix it.
An alternative to a regulator is a fuel pump rated at 5.5 psi. Edelbrock has one.
You’ll likely shoot me if I told you I sold my 70 chevelle LS6 4 speed to buy the trans am. The trans am was traded off in 82 for a truck.
Ok that's useful tips, i will switch the distributor vac to carb and see if any difference.You really need to invest in a service manual that covers that year. Whether that is a paper cover Haynes or something similar or hard back Motors Manual or if you can find an original GM service manual. I appreciate doing this from Ireland will be harder than in the States but you will find life with this machine a lot easier with book info in your library.
Since you apparently don’t need to pass emissions a lot of this will just help you clean up and organize the engine room.
The vacuum advance really should come off the carburetor. The Carter which these days is made by Edelbrock the Performer being the equivalent to the Carter AFB while the Thunder is the equivalent to the AVS. The AFB carries the secondary air valve below the secondary venturies and uses a counter weight to determine when and how much they open. While the Thunder has the air valve above the secondary venturies and uses an adjustable spring load to control when they turn on and how much air they will pass. Beyond that they are pretty similar carbs. Edelbrock has made several improvements on the AVS the latest being the AVS-II which acquired annual boosters on the primaries.
On the front both have vacuum ports for the vacuum advance system. In your picture both are capped. Looking from the front of the carb the one on the left that is positioned a bit higher than the one on your right is the timed port. The port on the right that is lower of the two is the manifold source port. Now cam event timing and compression have some to do as to which port will work best for you. This gets to be something you have to tinker with to see which satisfies most requirements.
- Basically a mild OEM type cam with low compression will want full time manifold vacuum. This will idle the best without needing so much curb idle screw. This can, also, hold true of a big cam and low compression.
- High compression regardless of cam can be hard to crank over because the cam needs a lot of base timing to idle well if at all. Here you can mess around with less base easing the cranking load on the starter and use full time vacuum to add advance at idle once the engine fires. Or you can separately switch the ignition from the starter to give it a running start before dumping the ignition on it while using a lot of base advance then use the timed port with a little slower centrifugal and the timed port to put in a little more to the base as the throttle opens.
You have to mess around with this stuff to see what works best with your set up, overall gearing and environmental considerations from cold to hot, dry to humid, flat terrain to mountainous will impact finding settings to where the engine starts easy, idles clean, comes through the carb transition to main metering without hesitation and doesn’t get into detonation anywhere. You just have to play with this stuff to see what the motor likes best.
I have found that the best cleaning for carbs is to purchase a 10 liter, heated, ultrasonic cleaner and here in the US a couple 1 gallon GUNK carb cleaner cans. You’ll find that once clean using a hobby tool like a Dremel with a buffer and some rubbing compound will clean and polish the exterior and it will stay that way for quite a while. Buffing polish compound on the intake will clean and preserve its look as well.
take the kids with you and she can’t complain about nothing, or trade her in for another cool car.Ok that's useful tips, i will switch the distributor vac to carb and see if any difference.
And i fully intend to clean up engine bay, when/if i get it sorted.
The interior needs a few things doing also. Hard to get time with wife and 3 kids.
She's already busting my ass for spending more time on the car than the kids.
Ahh, we'll get there.
I have a Haynes manual, first thing i bought off Rock auto. But it seems very basic.
There is no test, not even a safety. If there was I wouldn't have bought it, as I would be worried it wouldn't pass.
Are u serious, all the kids want is buttons (games and phone), but to be fair one of the lads does help out.take the kids with you and she can’t complain about nothing, or trade her in for another cool car.
ok, i will check it out. Sterling exchange rate can be expensive though.You can get a regulator right across the ditch from you On eBay.uk..
JJC Promise. P.O. BOX 2333, Kencourt T/A JJC Race and Rally, Wrexham, LL11 0HB. 4 Wheels - Motorsport.www.ebay.co.uk