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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I managed to make a pretty decent street engine very fast but I’ve been told that I’m going to be buying a lot of U joints so my question to you guys is.... is there a specific U joint that I should be buying.... should I buy more than just a you joint and buy other things as well?? And what kind of u joints are on a c10? Thanks
 

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First thing you need to check is if they are the factory u joints. Because then you need to heat them up to get out the plastic stuff out. Now 82 is 38 years old and at any point someone could have swapped out a driveshaft and it could have the plastic stuff.
Wear face protection as that is hot and they will pop sometimes sending that hot molten plastic flying. Check both the outside and inside for clips.
The below video is for showing the plastic removal technique.

There are much better methods for removing u joints. It can work. But there are less abusive ways to get them out.
I just use a large vise, a socket, some penetrating fluid, and sometimes a bit of heat. Never had a issue having the u joints coming out in a harsh manner and most of my junk is extremely rusted when I first buy it.


As far as the u joint sizes. Good chance your truck came with 1350's. I have seen some with 1410. But usually that is with 2 piece driveshafts and manual transmission

Here is a good video discussing the joint sizes in 3 minutes to tell what you have. You can measure these simply by dropping the driveshaft, measuring both joints, then reinstalling the driveshaft to drive to the parts store or online store to buy the correct u joints for your truck.

The 1410 are 4.188" width and 1.188" cap. Easily differentiated from a 1350.

Depending on your driving style you may choose serviceable or non serviceable(lifetime sealed). Generally if I am not going off road I run the non serviceable ones. If I go off road I want to introduce new grease into the u joints and have that grease fitting of a serviceable joint.
When installing the u joint make sure the fitting is positioned so it is easily accessible.


Depending on your power level there are stronger 1350 and 1410 joints out. But generally the ones in the parts store will handle power just fine. It is when you do things like shock loading u joints and run steeper angles when off road that you run into strength issues.

If your angles are good and your not shock loading stuff then factory u joints are usually up to the task. They make for a cheap fuse to save other stuff. If your concerned about breaking them a driveshaft hoop (cheap one can be made from semi spring 6"id U bolts) would be a better investment then expensive u joints.

 

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My ‘75 K25 has 1350 u-joints and they hold up well under heavy loads. Not sure how they handle the shock of a burnout, but my guess is that they will be fine. I use non-serviceable ones now, since I’ve had the standard ones go dry when I forgot to lube them.

Does your C10 have a two piece driveshaft? My K25 has a one piece rear driveshaft since the transfer case takes up quite a bit of length, but the two piece-shafts are common on LWB trucks.

Bruce
 
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