Hot Rod Forum banner
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
I will endevour to persevere
Joined
·
1,155 Posts
The fuel pump rollover switch (Pendulum) is located on the passengers side firewall. This switch senses any strong impact to the vehicle or senses to high a side angle and it will trip. When it trips it interrupts the main power to the fuel pumps! if that is tripped there is a pushbutton on the switch to reset it. If the switch was bumped hard or removed or tilted during ECU removal and replacement it could have been tripped as it is in the same proximity of the ECU. A good check to see if the thing is tripped is to shut off ignition and then turn the ignition on and listen for the pumps to run for 2 seconds as they prime the injectors. With engine not running the fuel pumps will not run. The fuel pumps need to see a RPM signal and sometimes oil pressure signal to kick them on after the engine fires. The ECU supplies the "Pumps On" voltage and can also be measured with a DVM as a positive voltage indication for about 2 seconds when measured at the pump of at the Pendulum.

On timing the engine there is a plug on the harness near the rear of the intake and it is called SPOUT plug. That has to be removed before you attempt to time the engine. If that plug is left in when you time it you will be way off...

Your sudden NO Start sounds to me like a typical failure of what is called the TFI block on the outside of the distributor it is a rectangular block of Usually gray plastic that has a harness connector attached to it. It's typical symptoms is good spark when cold then after a short time it heats up and no spark till it cools off again. I have seen a million of them fail..

Now about a crappy idle, the idle air controller is a cylindrical device bolted to the side of the upper intake and has a small connector going to it. this device controls the amount of atmospheric air let into the intake to raise and lower the engine RPM. a lot of people try to control the idle by twisting the screw at the throttle body. That is incorrect!!! Idle is controlled by the ECU and it takes signals from engine temperature, RPM, map sensor, etc. to calculate how long a pulse to pulse the injectors to get the recommended amount of fuel in the cylinder at the right moment. What typically happens to an IAC is it gets gummed up and dirty. and does not flow the correct amount of air the computer calculated it should hence wrong mixture for idle. There are procedures to clean the IAC.

Now here is where I ask you if you have dumped the codes from the computer to see if you have any hard fails. I also will tell you that to trouble shoot this little motor you need to know exactally what you are looking for so in that point I can not recommend enough that you get a manual on the ranger or bronco ii and read about how to set the timing correctly and all of the little quirks of the Cologne 2.9 ford motor If you can't afford a manual head to your local city or county library and check one out. If ya follow the manual you should be golden.. Good luck!:cool:
 

·
I will endevour to persevere
Joined
·
1,155 Posts
Thanks for the compliments.. I usually clear the ECM after I read the codes and before I start digging in. That way I don't have some buggy data lying there ready to send me off to la la land trying to troubleshoot.. Yeah I spent about 10 years working exclusivly with a group of off roaders and the majority of rigs were Bronco II's and Ford Rangers. I got to understand that little V6 and once you know it there pretty simple to troubleshoot.. If you have an ODB1 Scan tool it makes easy work of fixing the problems. Those scan tools are dirt cheep on Fleabay! I have an OTC OBD1 tool and a couple of OBD2 early model scan tools. The 2.9 can actually be troubleshot with a simple DVM.

When you get your problems sorted out let us know what you found was causing all the grief. You will probably find a combination of things all acting in concert to cause your 2.9 to feel and run sickley.

Oh one last thing, The 2.9 is notorious for a lot of lifter noise when running and that is caused by the Cam retainer plate! This plate allows half of the lifter oil galley to be left open. They used this opening to flood the timing chain in oil and when the engine gets a few miles on it and clearances get loose there is enough oil pressure lost from that plus the hole on the front end at the cam plate. and there is a large drop in pressure and volume and the lifters can't stay pumped up and clatter. This is a normal stuff and can be improved by some mods to the cam retainer but best left till overhaul time where the whole problem can be addressed. Good luck!
 

·
I will endevour to persevere
Joined
·
1,155 Posts
I have seen cases of the pick up assembly inside the distributor fail and kill the spark! When you lose spark do you still have +12v feeding the grey module when the spark quits? I have seen a bad ignition switch cause a loss of voltage at the module. It sounds like you have a weird problem! Check that internal module inside the distributor as that is the last electrical item that will kill spark, that and loss of voltage to the ignition.

Something else I have seen is the ignition switch on the side of the steering column go bad and cause a loss of voltage to the system. There were a rash of bad ignition switches back in the day due to poor assembly of the switch and the little metal tabs that hold the switch together would break or were not fully crimped together causing the internals to not make contact.

My best guess is still the internal distributor module (The one inside that senses the distributor rotation) that is all that is left of the ignition system that you haven't replaced so give it a go and check for voltage going to the distributor.. Good luck...
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top