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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just saw this video about spraying 1K paint out of a gun - had never even heard of doing this before. Does anyone know where you could purchase a system like this in single stage?
 

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I would spend the extra for 2K.
Have you ever seen acrylic with no hardener after 1 year?

You will, be disappointed.
You won't, be able to paint over it without removing it.
You might like it, but not for long...

This also depends on your prep work. For me, it takes tons of labor to prepare a surface for the finish coat.
Why put something less than the best you can do?

Yes, paint is expensive. It gets higher every year. But a good, quality paint WILL stay shiny for decades if applied properly. 1k you will have to baby it, and let's face it. Paint takes a beating. Always. Any time your car is out, and especially going down the road. Have you ever ridden in an open cockpit car and felt everything that hits you? Bumpers, and wheels get the brunt of it.
So it really depends on what you are doing, and what results you are after. But catalyzed clear is tough to beat. Just don't leave it in your gun! LOL!
 

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Many don't realise driving down the highway , especially at higher speeds , your vehicle is constantly being , what amounts to , sandblasted ! Then there's UV damage ...
 

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Even when I spray rustoleum, I mix in a hardener. single stage paint should always be activated.
Who's hardener are you using? Any attempts with flats or satins - I'm curious if increases their gloss? I have some hardware stuff I would like to shoot and would like to add a hardener but prefer a low-sheen finish.
 

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Who's hardener are you using? Any attempts with flats or satins - I'm curious if increases their gloss? I have some hardware stuff I would like to shoot and would like to add a hardener but prefer a low-sheen finish.
That's what I was wondering too?

Isn't that sprayable Rust-Oleum an enamel paint, or something like that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I would spend the extra for 2K.
Have you ever seen acrylic with no hardener after 1 year?

You will, be disappointed.
You won't, be able to paint over it without removing it.
You might like it, but not for long...

This also depends on your prep work. For me, it takes tons of labor to prepare a surface for the finish coat.
Why put something less than the best you can do?

Yes, paint is expensive. It gets higher every year. But a good, quality paint WILL stay shiny for decades if applied properly. 1k you will have to baby it, and let's face it. Paint takes a beating. Always. Any time your car is out, and especially going down the road. Have you ever ridden in an open cockpit car and felt everything that hits you? Bumpers, and wheels get the brunt of it.
So it really depends on what you are doing, and what results you are after. But catalyzed clear is tough to beat. Just don't leave it in your gun! LOL!
The price is not the issue, I'm trying to avoid spraying isocyanates anymore with just a respirator only. Have considered purchasing a supplied air system, but thats a grand investment; may end up going that route in the end, but shooting 1K just seemed like a cheap solution.
 

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Who's hardener are you using? Any attempts with flats or satins - I'm curious if increases their gloss? I have some hardware stuff I would like to shoot and would like to add a hardener but prefer a low-sheen finish.
I have used the brand that Napa has on the shelf, can't remember but it's for acrylic enamel, but now if I spray rustoleum, I use Majic paint hardener which is another alky'd enamel and works just fine. Majic also has their own reducer which works well. I do not like Majic paints themselves.. Everything I use is gloss
 

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Have you been watching bad chad ? He's the perfect example of what NOT to do. He's cheap and nasty. As for your respirator... there's very good filters available that will let you breathe clean air. Google spray masks and see what you can get. Good luck ( only watch chad for laughs)
 

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The price is not the issue, I'm trying to avoid spraying isocyanates anymore with just a respirator only. Have considered purchasing a supplied air system, but thats a grand investment; may end up going that route in the end, but shooting 1K just seemed like a cheap solution.
Your respirator MUST have cartridges for organic vapors. If you can smell the paint when wearing the respirator then you have the wrong cartridges
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Your respirator MUST have cartridges for organic vapors. If you can smell the paint when wearing the respirator then you have the wrong cartridges
I use 3M 07192 with organic vapor cartridges and I can always smell whatever I am working with within seconds, but perhaps its not sealing properly.
 

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I use 3M 07192 with organic vapor cartridges and I can always smell whatever I am working with within seconds, but perhaps its not sealing properly.
If you can smell it you are getting poisoned. I cannot smell activated acrylic enamel or acrylic activated acrylic urethane with my respirator using organic vapor cartridges. You need to find something better. About 40 years ago I put one coat of paint on using cartridges given to me by a buddy who worked high steel. For the next 30 years I had to leave the house when the wife used hairspray or if anyone used scented hand sanitizer because I would start coughing uncontrollably. You are putting yourself in great danger if you can smell the vapors. I also personally know a fella who had to close his lucrative body shop business because of paint fumes. There is no cure. Once you are poisoned, you are poisoned for life.
 
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