sounds like the timing to me......Take a sharpie and make a dot on the distributor base and one on the block next to the distributor . Then loosen the distributor and bump the distributor either way and try to start it. If its worse, try the other way, if neither works line the "dots" you made back up and its back where you started.... Not the most scientific method, but it might let you get it started so you can put a timing light on it....White smoke? not steam?...I had a dart (273 engine)I bought do that, Turned out the heat riser was froze in an almost closed position. The passenger side exhaust would seep by it a bit, with the rest going through the exhaust crossover in the intake and out the drivers side pipe.. Smoked like a bear from the carbon buildup and ran like manure til I figured it out and torched the heat riser out.
I just checked it out and the heat riser on the passenger side IS sitting there lifeless and useless!
It's not stuck, but the spring that used to operate it once it got hot is completely worn and it just flaps around at will.
Gravity tends to make this CLOSED.
Thanks alot. I'll try bumping the distributor around tommorow morning (although before I took the heads off to take them to the machine shop the timing seemed ok and the distributor hasn't been touched since)
But I still need to get somewhere with this carbeurator...
Rocker aren't adjustable in Mopars, except for the Hemi.
If your coil is good and the pickup (or points) is good, I'd recommend verifying TDC by pulling #1 plug and turning the engine until it blows your thumb off the hole, then check to make sure your distributor isn't 180 degrees out. That's rather what it sounds like to me (I've done this myself, though it's been awhile). If it's OK, then check plug wires and firing order again, and double check that the distributor cap and rotor are in good shape.
If these things check out OK, then you need to check for fuel delivery problems.
Have you had the heads off? And if not, when was the last time this engine ran? If it's a used engine, it's possible that the heads or valves are damaged (this would explain the carb backfiring) by a previous owner overheating the thing. I've seen it many times. If that's not the case, it could be the carb, but it's unusual to not get an engine to run at least poorly with almost any carb, no matter how bad a shape it's in.
When I got it the motor it had a stuck valve, and a bent pushrod resulting from that.
It ran decent, I drove it the 45 miles home. It was sluggish and tired feeling but exactly what I expected, the car had been sitting for literally thirty years and all I did was put points in it to get it out of there.
When I first got it started the thing smoked like hell, but once I got some new gas in it that died out. Put some tranny fluid in it, then it started shifting ok (just a tad rough). When I got it home I ripped the top end off, replaced the pushrod, took the heads in to the machine shop and had them gone through... Valves, guides, hardened seats, spring testing, the whole nine.
The heads should be fine.
And yes Stickman, it's a used engine but it only had 50,000 miles on it on the original FACTORY setup. The thing even had the paper shields over the motor mounts still neatly pinned into place.
I got it from the original owners grandson. The original owner bought it in 1965 (the model year) and drove it to town every once in awhile for 5 or 6 years. She parked the thing in her driveway and put a cover over it in 71, it wasn't touched until 73 when her son drove it from Michigan (where she lived) to Sacramento, California (where I live). This guy has a MASSIVE collection of cars, and it just got lost in the pack for the past 30 to 35 years until he died. I then bought it off of his grandson.
It's all straight, the interior is damn near impeccable, and it's 100% all original to the core. When I had the top end off, the block, pistons, cam, lifters, and cylinder walls looked to be in very good shape. Major battle with rust going on (damn roadsalt in Michigan) and the underside (motor and all) has ALOT of rust removal to be taken care of, but the thing is clean as all hell up top.
It's really frustrating me that I can't get it started to drive it around and show it off!
I just got back in from messing with it now that it's light out.
It IS a fuel problem, even with the new pump... I pulled the line off of the mechanical pump that goes to the carb, had my wife turn it over a few times... And NOTHING
Not a drop.
Every rubber hose under the hood is brand new as of yesterday... Fuel tank sending unit?
It's a metal line back to the tank, so I doubt that's it... Even though it WAS rusted pretty bad where it was exposed to the underside of the car so I cut it back farther to a decent spot and ran rubber from then on.
Possible to have the pickup clogged in the tank(mine was rusted in half on my car)Might remove the gas cap,have the wife get back there and listen,then grab the rubber line where it feeds into the fuel pump and blow as hard as you can and see if see hears it bubbling. Did you replace the short length of rubber hose that runs from the gas tank to the hard metal fuel line? These tend to get forgotten until they split....... Also they might have given you a fuel pump with a bad diaphragm.
I would take the gas tank off and have it looked at. I have a 73 Mustang that sat for 8 years with gas in it and the tank was full of sludge and rust. Take the gas tank to a radiator shop and have them boil it out and seal it. It wouldn't surprise me if the fuel lines have pinholes in them from rusting. I would also rebuild the carb, a carb kit should only cost $20. The soft parts in the carb probably have dried out and are now leaking. I have been working on my Mustang for the last 7 months and I had to have the gas tank boiled out and sealed, the fuel pump was junk, I rebuilt the carb, the water pump was replaced and now I have seals leaking in my power steering pump and ram. If a car sits for a long time without being run expect anything that has rubber seals to leak, if it doesn't it will.