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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2003 S-10 i put a 350 sbc in it wiring harness is completely gone i put a 4L60e in it because i watched about a dozen video's of people saying all you have to do to make it work is go buy three toogle switches and take the green wire shift selinoid a from your electrical plug on the 4L60e run it to a toogle switch same with yellow and black wire (b) slot on the trans plug and shift selinoid b then do the same with with the tcc brown and tan wire slot (T) on trans switch then run the pink wire to a switchable 12v.and your set on go well either ive done something wrong 6 times or it just wont work..i dont mind it bring a manual automatic if it would work help please!!! thanx !!
 

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Even if you are able to toggle the shift solenoids, you still must use a mechanical shifter to operate the hard parts inside. You will need to move the PRNDL.

What shifter are you using? And what problem exactly are you having? You should be able to drive it around the parking lot even with no electronics hooked up...
 

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Franko64: Welcome to Hotrodders. I edited the thread title from HELP Please!! We do not use those types of thread titles here. Place proper info in the title for the membership. The folks here are very helpful. Thanks.
 

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First off not all 4L60E’s are the same there have been a lot of running changes.

Try this link it builds a test box. Keep in mind that no manual controller includes modulation every shift is like a full throttle shift.


Bogie
 

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Research microsquirt. Tons of great tech and options out depending on your budget and what transmission you actually have.


The switch thing is a very old hack and really not recommended.

You have better tuning options with microsquirt and can link it with a megasquirt controller. If you decide to move onto fuel injection or add electronically controlled timing to your sbc for better control shift points under diffrent loads like when under nitrious or boost.

You can have the best most expensive parts around. Without proper tuning, your going to be looking at taillights of someone who knows how to properly tune.

Don't be questionable about tuning. If you ever used microsoft excel you can tune using tables. There is a learning curve like with anything new. But there is so much great tech and writeups out that will help you. Even downloadable tables that will get things close for a factory setup that you can tweak and tune to suit your needs.


Before you go out and spend cash on anything do your research and read up on the steps involved. Find out exactly what your starting with and how to best tune it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Even if you are able to toggle the shift solenoids, you still must use a mechanical shifter to operate the hard parts inside. You will need to move the PRNDL.

What shifter are you using? And what problem exactly are you having? You should be able to drive it around the parking lot even with no electronics hooked up...
YES SIR I CAN DRIVE IT BUT IT SEEMS LIKE IT MAY BE IN SECOND OR THIRD GEAR NOT TO SURE.THE PROBLEM IS I FOLLOWED THE INSTRUCTIONS FROM ABOUT FOUR DIFFERENT VIDEO'S ON YOUTUBE WHERE THEY SAY HOOK THE GREEN WIRE TO ONE TOOGLE SWITCH FOR 1 & 2ND.GEAR SELINOID YELLOW WIRE TO ANOTHER TOOGLE SWITCH FOR 3RD AND 4TH GEAR SELINOID THEN THE BROWN AND TAN WIRE TO ANOTHER SELINOID FOR LOCK UP CONVERTER THEN RUN A GROUND THROUGH ALL THRTEE SELINOID'S TO A CHASIS GROUND AND LAST RUN THE PINK WIRE TO 12V + but it does nothing,and thank you for replying
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Even if you are able to toggle the shift solenoids, you still must use a mechanical shifter to operate the hard parts inside. You will need to move the PRNDL.

What shifter are you using? And what problem exactly are you having? You should be able to drive it around the parking lot even with no electronics hooked up...
IT'S THE ORIGINAL COLUM SHIFTER
 
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