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the 'Duracell Project'
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my son in law has a 05 volvo that has a couple valves broke in the head. it was actually running fine, the AC compressor went out and he decided to replace the timing belt. he noticed the motor would lock when turning by hand. he thinks he has another motor located for $400

question: same Volvo S40 2.4L i B5244S4 motor, but it has a broken timing belt. is this an interference motor? will there be bent/broken valves from a broken timing belt?


he brought over the head, there's a gouge next to lower valve seat. how it was running like this is beyond me. it's a 5 cyl, might have something to do with it. the AC compressor was making so much noise, drowning out all else

Automotive tire Font Rim Automotive wheel system Motor vehicle
 

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1979 Chevrolet Malibu 496-TH400-9" (cruiser). 1992 Chevrolet S10 355-700r4-7.625" (daily driver).
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Yes, that's an interference engine.

The only one I ever had apart looked exactly like the photo you posted.
 

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Sorry Ogre, I just couldnt resist

Euro cars crunch ever so sweetly when the big green machine is on top

A long, long time ago I was sitting at the light in North Bend, Washington back when I90 was under construction. At the time that was one of two stop lights between Seattle, Wa. and Boston, Ma. the other light was Wallace, Idaho.

So I’m sitting there in my 3/4 ton four wheel drive Ford, Camper Special, sans camper with my female wolf-shepard cross monster dog named Buffalo, this lady in a Volvo who said she didn’t see this big red Ford, slams into me from behind. She hit so hard it pushed the Ford halfway through the intersection fortunately between crossing vehicles. The Volvo was a total and she got transported to be checked for injuries. When I got home I threw a chain around a big Douglas Fir and pulled the dock bumper back to it’s pre-collision position.

Bogie
 

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the 'Duracell Project'
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
no problem, i'm a truck guy bought my first 58 truk my freshman year in high school and never looked back
sil took the head to a machine shop and said the same thing, just fix it
 

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That’s the approach I take with my wife’s Prius, just take to the dealer let them deal with its problems. I’ll admit most of its problems have been nits but the thing isn’t make to be maintained it’s supposed to be replaced not rebuilt.

Bogie
 

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1979 Chevrolet Malibu 496-TH400-9" (cruiser). 1992 Chevrolet S10 355-700r4-7.625" (daily driver).
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That’s the approach I take with my wife’s Prius, just take to the dealer let them deal with its problems. I’ll admit most of its problems have been nits but the thing isn’t make to be maintained it’s supposed to be replaced not rebuilt.

Bogie
The MIssus drove a Prius when I met her. It was her first car. Drove it through High School, out of state for her undergrad study and through grad school in state.

Her '07 had the driver window off track, no air conditioning, 4 bald tires and no oil on the dipstick. To which she replied "there's oil in there?"

The 10mm bolt for the window regulator fell out and was in the bottom of the door. Blue loctite cured that. A high side schrader valve and ONE can of oil free refrigerant for cold a/c. 4 new tires, alignment and an oil "change." That's all it took to have a 200k Prius run and drive like a new one after years of little to no maintenance. Great car.

After school the Prius was traded in on a new '20 Jaguar F Type (that hurt my Bowtie heart). It has been back to the dealer more than a half a dozen times. Twice they kept it over a month. As you said "let them deal with it's problems."
 

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These engines are a 250 to 300k engine. No need to swap it. It is a strong reliable engine when maintained.

Replace the motor/transmission mounts when you do the engine. I would also do the oil pan and other gaskets.
Timing belt /waterpump at the same time. Inspect your cv shafts and the seals.

A bit of maintance up front will keep you pulling the engine again a few weeks later.
$500 is about right for a 180k engine. I try to get engines from part outs instead of a junkyard. You get alot of extras like coils, sensors, clutch/converter, and acessories that can almost completly offset the $500 longblock cost. A junkyard charges you for all these extras.

When I sell a car or engine I get video of it running. If the transmission is good I start it cold take it down the road, go through all the gears, while showing the gauges.
Most of the piles I buy are not drivable so I will do a cold start and just make a long video until it gets up to temp.

Before you buy a engine ask for a video showing it running and potentially driving. If your looking at a engine sitting on a crate then it would not take much to do a quick compression test before handing over $500ish.

You of course need to make sure the engines match number for number so you dont end up with a computer thinking you have a diffrent cam then you actually have.
 
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