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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Arp says torque their bolt to 235. GM says to torque to 59 and tighen it 125 degrees tighter. I am using a ARP bolt, so do I go by ARP specs? There might be a difference in the stretch of the two bolts.

Bob
 

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you need to use the ARP method.
Word of warning---customer who is a racer used an ARP bolt in his LS---when he went to remove it the bolt galled in the crank and would not come out. Had to cut the head off and then remove the crank from the engine to get the hole repaired.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Sounds like some anti seize is in order.
Anything to fight the useless TTY BS bolts.
 

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you need to use the ARP method.
Word of warning---customer who is a racer used an ARP bolt in his LS---when he went to remove it the bolt galled in the crank and would not come out. Had to cut the head off and then remove the crank from the engine to get the hole repaired.
Yes.
ARB bolts/studs are great stuff. But this is one area where the factory bolt works just fine and comes out everytime.

The factory bolt has no issue holding at 7000 rpm on a 700hp engine.

If you have a supercharger or something that may spacer that balancer out more. Then a diffrent bolt may be needed. But the correct pulley/balancer will often let you run that factory bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't have a lot of hp, nor do I race my 60 Cad more than twice a year. My engine dynoed at 535 hp and 520 torque so it is not a monster. I always use anti size on ARP products, however since my last posting I did look at the stock bolt and found that the head of the bolt and the washer is one piece and has a really good sealant on the bottom side of the washer. Given this I feel the stock bolt and washer may be a better choice to keep leaks down.

Thank you for your input
Bob
 
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