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Discussion Starter #1
I got the 2018 SS Camaro Brembo brakes on my 68 front end this spring. Video here,

https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/more-vacuum-front-bias-520445-2.html

Now I'm working out how to get the rear Brembo's adapted to the Ford 9".

20191120_195057-02.jpg


The adapter bracket is done and rotors drilled to fit Ford stud pattern. But I need suggestions for what to do for a parking brake. I didn't get parking brakes and dust shields off the donor car and can't find any online. If I could find some I would consider cutting/welding them to fit onto the Ford 9" axle flange. But they're electronic which I'm not excited about. They're also drum style inside the rotor. I guess I never liked drum brakes so I'm not sure what to think about a drum parking brake. But might be easy to adapt these and hook them to my parking brake cable. I don't know how though. Looking for suggestions on how to do this. Or I've seen these cable-operated brake calipers but never used them.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-120-12069-bk/overview/

What would be pros/cons on adapting these instead of the stock parking brake?
 

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There are several pinion parking brake options for a 9".
Let you run any calipers you want at the wheels and a cable with minimal bends.
 

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Look around I believe there is a kit that allows for manual caliper and rotor. Mounts on the drive shaft, front of the pinion.

My truck has the parking brake, shoes inside hat, works fine. I would steer away from the electric just for the sake of simplicity

Pep
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys I've seen those pinion mounted brakes, I'll look into it.
Any ideas on how to make the electronic parking brake work with a mechanical cable? Any feedback on using the cable-operated parking brake calipers?
 

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https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Pinion-Mounted-9-Inch-Ford-Emergency-Brake,44784.html

The above link shows speedways 9" kit thingy.

All they are doing is using the existing pinion and extending the u joint retaining bolts through the pinion so they extend between the pinion and diff. You then slide on your "rotor" and bolt it down.
From there you bolt your caliper bracket to the front of the pinion using the diff bolts. Then you adjust your caliper so it does not hit.






A PARKING BRAKE does not need to be perfect. The only thing that matters is that the rotor is balanced. Everything else can be a bit off if need be.

You can build the above for the cost of a caliper electric or mechanical and some scrap.


You dont need a ton of power here.

Caliper wise you dont even need to squeeze the caliper.
You can mount a simple auctatior/spring/lever on the axle housing that presses against the back (between pinion and diff) side of the rotor.
Because this is a PARKING BRAKE mounted at the pinion the differential ratio MULTIPLIES that holding force 3 to 4 times.

The fact your pushing on the side of the rotor does not matter as much as you can use less force and things are not rotating.
Because your mounting this at the pinion.

With electrical I would want a system that uses a spring. The spring actually engages the holding action when the auctatior is off. Once again were multiplying that force with the diff ratio so you do not need a ton of force.

Most cases you can use a simple lever with a spring on one side and auctatior at the other to supply the force you need.

| rotor(mounted with pinion

/ lever(mounted to diff with rubber pad at bottom)




|/
ON
With spring pulling back towards rear of axle at top

| |
OFF
With auctatior pushing at top contracting spring.

Spring wise I would use one from a drum brake kit. Not only do you have a huge selection here of varying rates. But the stuff can be found at any junk yard for cheap.

Auctatior wise your talking enough force to pull that spring back with some type of catch so the thing only needs to be powered breifly. Like say a power window motor. Thing has all the gearing you need and is easily replacable for cheap.

I have flirted with eliminating parking brake levers (foot or center) and just using a window motor (mounted inside)to do all the pulling/releasing of the parking cable for years. It will happen eventually.

From an electronic standpoint I build my junk to go through rivers. They may never experence that. But I build them to that standard. This means electronics are waterproof or out of the water. This means your using a cable electric or mechanical setup. That way your not relying on some china sealed unit or a layer of grease to protect those circuits every time you wash the underbody with your pressure washer or drive in the rain.




If your not into building something the speedway kit is not that bad. Of course the hardware is junk. But a trip to the hardware store for some grade 8 stuff will have you bolting the thing up. Cable wise you can mount a electric motor in the trunk to pull the cable or just use what you have now.
 
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