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Discussion Starter #1
I took all liftrs out and took them part and cleand them, i put them together and let them soak in oil for a day,,,, got them in ,,, so how long before they get tight ? ,and i guess i needto adjust them again? , used rotela 30 weight ,

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http://www.warsprints.com
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I took all liftrs out and took them part and cleand them, i put them together and let them soak in oil for a day,,,, got them in ,,, so how long before they get tight ? ,and i guess i needto adjust them again? , used rotela 30 weight ,

Thanks
Hydraulic or Solid? I hope you put them back in their original locations as they have been mated with their own cam lobe during breakin. Yes, you will need to readjust. Why did you take them out & clean them?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yes i did keep them in the same spot ,,, they were ticking loud and i took them apart to clean them ,,,, i might have to buy a set but they are hard to find for a 235 ,, i will try to readjust them, i just wanted to make sure they were fully pumped up

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Discussion Starter #4
ok i am done ,, i am buying new lifters ,, i adjusted them and still bad or worse ,, you get the back lash out them do 1 1/2 turns more you can still push it down a little ( spongy ) got be weak springs???? no ??? i soaked them for a full day in oil so i have had it lol
sorry for venting

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Discussion Starter #7
i was told that you can do new lifters old cam but not (new cam old lifters ),, i dont know ?
 

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New lifters can be added to an old cam. It's done all the time if a lifter goes flat and stops pumping up.. You can't run old lifters on a new cam.. After the lifters are replaced, the cam should be gone thru a basic break in procedure to pattern the lifters to the cam..

New Cam wouldn't be a bad idea. Cost of a cam and lifter kit isn't much more than the lifters itself
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks guys
i am still trying to finf lifters that dont cost 20 each lol
before i do a cam and lifter i will do a v8 lol

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Discussion Starter #11
so been thinking ,,, me running unleaded fuel is that a big deal ??? i dont know what the owner before me was running , i did hear him say that he put a bottle of lead in every now and then ,,, whats the story with that ??
 

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not at all. Lead was used as a cushion additive for the valves because they were not hardened. With the light use your car will likely see, it will not be an issue..

Lifters are going to be expensive because the engine went out of production in 1962. There still nice smooth running engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks matt
i will get on the phone to find lifters come mon ... i hate to keep running in circles with adjusting worn lifters you know ,, the outcome will be the same ,, i thought for sure after i cleaned everything it would fix the noise , its over 100 degrees here , i was going to put the valve cove and go around the block ,, and see what happens ,,, but i believe the same out come ,, i will get a set and see from there ,, i'll keep you guys posted ,, i have a couple of places to call

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Discussion Starter #14
well took it around the block it ran just fine ,, still got a ticking sound ,, maybe its me and it sounds that way i dont know,, anyway i have a modulator valve coming and i will change that and drive it for a few days and see,, i did see a tad bit smoke coming from the tail pipe ( all i need ) ,, it might clear up or i did something with the 2 oil changes i did got me

more to come lol
thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well i am happy with my lifters now it sounds ok not bad i took it for a spin and everything seems ok ,,, only thing now i see a little smoke , that i didnt see before ,, i hope i didnt do something when changing the oil and using different oils ,,,, or could i have them not adjusted right ???
 

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it shouldn't, but if it's black or grey, it's just running a little rich. tinkering with/ adjusting the valves correctly can make it more fuel efficent and thus, run a little rich.
 

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The exhaust seats are hardened for use w/unleaded fuel, not the valves.;)

I totally agree w/Greg T. Putting new lifter on an old cam is just begging for trouble. IMO there is NO "right" way to mix new and old cam and lifters. Period. The ONLY thing that might save you is the old worn out valve springs are probably down to 50 lbs on the seat.

Just the same, I wouldn't ever do it (see Item #18 here). The only way to try to repair bad lifters is if the lifter body is OK, the guts can be removed and replaced w/new guts from a new, identical lifter, as mentioned here.
 

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Can't put new lifters on an old cam.
.
I did it on a '77 Nova with a straight 6 cyl at about 30K with no problems and the car had 142,000 when I sold it only because the body was going bad.
I bought the new lifters from GM Chevy dealer, oiled them well, and used plenty of assembly lube.
Terry
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Reused the old lifters,,,they sound good now buy just a little smoke,, could be from theanks tranny fliud in the line , cause when i cganged the modulator valve there was fluid in the line ,,,or could be running a little rich,,,it does burn your eyes a little ,,,1 other thing is after i changed the modulator valve it shiftes better but takes too long to change ,,can i adjust the passing gear linkage to fix this ,,, i get a little diesel sound right befor it changes,,

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Reused the old lifters,,,they sound good now buy just a little smoke,, could be from theanks tranny fliud in the line , cause when i cganged the modulator valve there was fluid in the line ,,,or could be running a little rich,,,it does burn your eyes a little ,,,1 other thing is after i changed the modulator valve it shiftes better but takes too long to change ,,can i adjust the passing gear linkage to fix this ,,, i get a little diesel sound right befor it changes,,

Thanks guys
The eye watering exhaust is unburned hydrocarbons. This is a fancy way of saying there's not enough initial timing, most likely.

If you are hearing detonation and not the bearings rattling:pain:, the detonation right before the shift is also likely related to the timing, this time too much. I would recommend you recurve the distributor. Start from scratch and set it up like you would most any "performance" curve (as opposed to a stock curve). The info on this page was originally about the GM V8 HEI but the timing info works for many apps, just change the initial and total amounts of timing to suit the engine being tuned.

If you are strapped for time and you know the total timing is OK where it's at, you can try hooking the vacuum advance up to manifold vacuum and put a one-step heavier advance spring on ONE side and retest. Changing the vacuum advance vacuum source to manifold will speed up the idle if you were using ported vacuum. Reset the idle speed and be sure to readjust the idle mixture screws.

The modulator shouldn't change the WOT shift points. Be sure there's no leaks in the vacuum line and that it's tight on the modulator. You can readjust the detent cable and see if that helps.
 
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