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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. I need a 27 spline yoke for a 350 turbo transmission. There is one on ebay for around $57. It comes from a place call Southwest Speed.. Has anyone heard of this place?? Otherwise.. Does anyone know where I can get a new yoke?? Thanks..
 

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Hundreds of thousands of TH 350 transmissions in wrecking yards, or do a wanted ad on Craigs List. They sure are costly NEW. Same yokes were used on fine spline Powerglides, TH 350, most Muncies and Saginaws; the smaller TH 250, and 200R4, you should be able to find one used for very little $.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
On the one I have now. I was using a cutoff wheel to try and cut out the u joint. I don't have a torch. I put a couple of cuts into one of the ears of the yoke.. Can I just use a wire feed and fill in the cuts??
 

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yoke

the advice given by jr stocker is very good. if the cuts are small you can repair them this way. if your ujoint is held in with plastic injuction, heat these area and the plastic will flow out and you can remove them, i dont see any reason the cut them out. you can get a propane torch from home depot or your local hardware store
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All I have is a small propane torch. Some of that plastic came out, but not enough. Something did blow when I was heating the area but I don't know what it was. I figured I could cut it out then take the rest out from the inside.
Iwas told by another person that when you have a driveshaft made.. Use only new parts. Don't keep any of the old parts. The only reason to keep the old yoke is to measure.
Now with the measuring deal.. I have been to Denny's site and saw one way of doing it. I was at Back to the 50's and got a flyer from Inland on how to measure ( which is different ) and now I hear that I am suppose to put the yoke into the trans. all of the way. then pull it out 1 1/2" and measure from the center of the yoke to the flat, or center of the cap on the rearend..
WHICH IS IT????
 

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if all you did was cut the yoke to change the ujoint, as long as you didnt do anything to the shaft itsself, then get a ujoint and a yoke, theres no need to replace the driveshaft. other transmissions that you can get a yoke from are the metric 200, 700r4, pretty much from the majority of gm rear wheel drive cars.
a lot of salvege yards have piles of driveshafts that can be sifted through to find a yoke that is in the best shape, probably get the whole driveshaft for what you would pay for the yoke new, so it may not be a bad thing to measure the tube of your current driveshaft and while your out there, find 1 the same length. that way, you not only get the yoke, but a backup or extra driveshaft as well.
and to answer your last question, i do the latter, 1 1/2" out, and center to center.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I,m sorry.. You don't understand.. I don't have a driveshaft now. All I was given when I got my project was the transmission with the yoke, u joint, and about 2" of drive shaft. The rest was burned off. I wanted to get the u-joint out so that I could measure from cap to cap, or end to end. I tried with a small Home Depot style propane torch, but it wouldn't melt out all of the plastic inside. There was a blow out on one end, but the cap didn't move any. It blue in insted of out. I then tried to cut the u-joint out using a cut off wheel. It was going ok when I moved the wheel a little. it cut into the yoke about 1/8" deep. One person says to fill it. Another says to junk it and get a new one..
 

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drive shaft

car salvage yards have interchange books that tell what will interchange with others. check with them and see if they have a complete drive shaft. you may have to replace the ujoints. if they work smooth they will be ok. you will find parts that have already been replaced. if you are new at this sort of thing or just want to cut cost, go for it. some guy have plenty of cash and it is easy to tell you to buy new when it is not necessary. so you be the judge and do what is right for you.. dont buy a dented drive shaft. this will be out of balance..
 

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APalusky said:
I,m sorry.. You don't understand.. I don't have a driveshaft now. All I was given when I got my project was the transmission with the yoke, u joint, and about 2" of drive shaft. The rest was burned off. I wanted to get the u-joint out so that I could measure from cap to cap, or end to end. I tried with a small Home Depot style propane torch, but it wouldn't melt out all of the plastic inside. There was a blow out on one end, but the cap didn't move any. It blue in insted of out. I then tried to cut the u-joint out using a cut off wheel. It was going ok when I moved the wheel a little. it cut into the yoke about 1/8" deep. One person says to fill it. Another says to junk it and get a new one..

You need a several ton press to remove u-joints held in with plastic. Not even a large vice will work; just ask me how I know that. Put your slip yoke into the trans, push it ALL the way in, the take a tape measure and measure from the CENTER of the trans-yoke U-Joint to the center of the rear end yoke. Subtract about an inch, that be how long the driveshaft needs to be. If it's a truck and goes off road or through the rough, make it 1 1/2". Hunt the wrecking yards for the correct lenth driveshaft. IF you can get anyone to even LOOK a a Hollanders Interchange Manual, you're luckier than I am. Even wrecking yard counter people don't know much, kind of like modern day counter people at auto parts stores. If you're one of these, and you're offended, TOUGH, learn your job! Don't even talk to me if you don't have grease on your hands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Have to try and find someone with one of those books. First I have to measure again. I may buy a Spicer yoke for $50.00 New.. Would I measure from the dead center of this yoke??, or would I need a U-joint in there first??
Would that Hollanders Book tell me what car or truck to look for for the length of the driveshaft I would need??
 

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drive shaft

sounds like jr stocker is sore about something or someone he knows nothing about. i gave Apalusky **** general advice. i work for gm dealers from 1960 to 1990, and additional 20 years on heavy equipment. i have change my share of ujoints and cv joints so i think i have a enough knowledge to give a little advice to someone how needs it. i do agree with the response about parts stores not having parts books , i think this dumb and irresponsible to its customers...
 

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sedan delivery said:
sounds like jr stocker is sore about something or someone he knows nothing about. i gave Apalusky **** general advice. i work for gm dealers from 1960 to 1990, and additional 20 years on heavy equipment. i have change my share of ujoints and cv joints so i think i have a enough knowledge to give a little advice to someone how needs it. i do agree with the response about parts stores not having parts books , i think this dumb and irresponsible to its customers...

Yeah, I came across kinda rough there. I just went through the driveline hunt with the local wrecking yards here. I feel sorry for the counter people, they must have some mighty sore calluses on their fannies. I even asked about the Hollanders Interchange Manuals, "we don't use those anymore". I'm guessing it's because they can't read. Went to Greyhound today, they lost a package being sent to a member on here. Then I get a Bank of America/VISA card bill with $39.00 tacked on for "late payment", never happened on my part. Today, I made 3 trips to the local muffler shop for parts I dropped off last week; they were to be done this morning, just picked them up at 3:30PM. Mailman left a card for a package, said it was at the Post Offfice, I got there at 4:10, they close at 4:00. Came home and found the mailman in another part of the neighborhood and got my package, crushed, with a WCFB carb in it. What is happening here? Do I expect too much? I spent 36 years in healthcare/radiology, and if I did my job with as little disregard as some of these folks; well that's a moot point because it would NEVER happen on my part. Anyway, rant over, the driveline issue just touched an already exposed and irritated nerve. This was'nt aimed at anyone here, or you sedan delivery, unless you're one of those slackers, and I seriously doudt that.

Oh, sedan delivery, This is the only site I go by junior stocker on, on the rest, I'm 56/sedandelivery, as that's my car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
All that said and everyone is happy now.. :) I have been talking to a guy on another site. He builds driveshafts for a living. He can build me a driveshaft using a Spicer yoke, and non-greasable joints and a 3" tube for $300 shipped.. Less hassle than digging threw crap at a junk yard lookig for something that might, or might not fit. Who knows if there will a vibration issue or not either. It may take me a few months to save up that kind of money, but then I know that I have a shaft was built for this car. Thanks guys.. No more fighting now :nono: :nono: .. Al
 

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junior stocker said:
You need a several ton press to remove u-joints held in with plastic. Not even a large vice will work; just ask me how I know that. Put your slip yoke into the trans, push it ALL the way in, the take a tape measure and measure from the CENTER of the trans-yoke U-Joint to the center of the rear end yoke. Subtract about an inch, that be how long the driveshaft needs to be. If it's a truck and goes off road or through the rough, make it 1 1/2". Hunt the wrecking yards for the correct lenth driveshaft. IF you can get anyone to even LOOK a a Hollanders Interchange Manual, you're luckier than I am. Even wrecking yard counter people don't know much, kind of like modern day counter people at auto parts stores. If you're one of these, and you're offended, TOUGH, learn your job! Don't even talk to me if you don't have grease on your hands.
Your not supposed to try and press the nylon injected joint's out without removing some of the nylon. Warm up the ears of the yoke and the nylon will squirt out. Now the joint will come out alot easier.
 

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APalusky said:
All I have is a small propane torch. Some of that plastic came out, but not enough. Something did blow when I was heating the area but I don't know what it was. I figured I could cut it out then take the rest out from the inside.
Iwas told by another person that when you have a driveshaft made.. Use only new parts. Don't keep any of the old parts. The only reason to keep the old yoke is to measure.
Now with the measuring deal.. I have been to Denny's site and saw one way of doing it. I was at Back to the 50's and got a flyer from Inland on how to measure ( which is different ) and now I hear that I am suppose to put the yoke into the trans. all of the way. then pull it out 1 1/2" and measure from the center of the yoke to the flat, or center of the cap on the rearend..
WHICH IS IT????
If you burn a small hole in the end of the cap with a torch before you warm up the rest of the yoke,it will help with the grease blowing up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks. I deceided to get the whole works done at a local shop. I can get everything including non greaseable u-joints, and a yoke for $226.11.. Thanks everyone for your help again.. Al
 

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man they saw you coming with cash wow

they scored

i grind and cut my own down and weld them back on with stick welder

free.

hmm.

easy.

driveshaft shops dont exist here and i wouldnt go to one anyways if there was one.

rip off artists.

haha we have had a few caps explode off the joints in the past when torching u joints out hahaha

its interesting!

leaking shocks exploding is the worst though,,,.



good luck!
 
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