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Discussion Starter #1
I am at the point with the front suspension that I need to locate a tack up the 4 bars . Now the instructions say to remove all but the two longest springs so the suspension is close to ride height . They don't mention if the car needs to be on tires and rims and the weight of a motor . Any best know methods out there ?
 

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I think the removal of all but 2 of the leaf springs gets the frame at ride height without the weight of the motor.

With the motor in it would be close to ride height already. I try to mock those up with the frame having most , if not all of the components that the finished car will have, loaded on it.

I also like to have the wheels and tires on it so I can see how the front end sets so I can get the bars close to level at ride height.
Later, mikey

And here's some more....
I dont know who's front end kit you have, but here is a pic from TCI website showing some dimensions. I would think that the height of the frame mounts would be close, and you would only have to allow for any differences in bar length. (if any)


Here is the place where I found that.http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/instruction_det.cfm?ManualID=281
 

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1929 Chopped Tudor
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I am guessing! I have not that far on my project yet so I will be watching this. It would seem that removing the two longest springs compensate for not having the motor installed and if you put the motor in first than you would leave the springs on. Tires would not,to me,make a difference if they were on or not. You might try calling the maker of the item. My '29 I redid the rear end and called Heidt's and a couple other companies on the coil overs and they all were polite and helpful. I was posting this before I saw Mike's idea and it would seem better to have the tires on for the sake of veiwing the finished product. jack
 

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Discussion Starter #4
powerrodsmike said:
I also like to have the wheels and tires on it so I can see how the front end sets so I can get the bars close to level at ride height.
Later, mikey



Great info . Thanks for the diagram ... I think I am also missing some critical measurements and checks . You mention making sure the bars a level ... Level to what ? My kit FYI ( Speedway's SS 28-34 4 bar complete front end ) http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/paging.yes/dept_id.320/display_id.3342/qx/Product.htm
 

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The bars look better the closer they are to being level with the Earth.

They do not have to be level. Usually they angle down some towards the front, but if you have a choice, and the clearance is available, level looks best IMO.

i'd set it up with the bracket you have and run it. Speedway thinks their stuff out pretty good.

Later, mikey
 

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I went wandering around till I found a good side view of a 34.


Not really a car I would call a perfect example, but it shows the relationship of the earth to the bars. Close to level. I think a longer set of 4 bars would have gotten the bars even more level. Some bigger tires would help achieve that also.

mikey
 

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1929 Chopped Tudor
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When you install the drag link you want to try to get that as parallel as possible to the 4 bar suspension. Having them parallel with the ground makes them look better and also HP books Street Rodders "Chassis & Suspension" ISBN 1-55788-346-7 might prove helpfull. Jack
 

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Tonythefish said:
I hope there is a little more science than just looks ... :) but ok
There is; I have read that having all three parallel helps reduce "bump steer". It is all explain in the book I recommended. Jack
 

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Go look in my photo album......there are some pictures of my four bars on my 30 model...I used them front and rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Henry Highrise said:
Go look in my photo album......there are some pictures of my four bars on my 30 model...I used them front and rear.


How do i make your pictures bigger ?? Very small
 
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