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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everybody, got a couple of questions about my motor.
I've got a 1955 chevy 3100 truck, which i thought had a 327 sbc but when i pulled the motor i ran the numbers on the back of the block "3756519" and Mortec.com says it's a 283 sbc from 58-62 with a two bolt main.
Now my question is when i thought it was a 327 i was hoping for around 320-350 horsepower, with this 283 can i still make that kind of power without forced induction or nitrous? I don't want the motor to be to radical ( like a gasser motor), but i also realize that to make that kind of power it will probably have to be pretty aggressive. Any thoughts on this? and some suggestions on what parts i should look at getting would also be much appreciated.

ryan
 

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Not very practical with a 283 and be very drivable. The 283 was available with power pack heads and 4 barrel carb for 220hp back in it's day. It can make respectable horsepower with the right parts selection, but it's going to be a high winder when making that kind of horsepower. IMO 300hp would be really pushing it and retain some drive ability. If I was trying to keep the truck true to form I would give it a good rebuild and make a Power Pack out of it, those parts are easy to find and cheap.

Vince
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
302 Z28 said:
Not very practical with a 283 and be very drivable. The 283 was available with power pack heads and 4 barrel carb for 220hp back in it's day. It can make respectable horsepower with the right parts selection, but it's going to be a high winder when making that kind of horsepower. IMO 300hp would be really pushing it and retain some drive ability. If I was trying to keep the truck true to form I would give it a good rebuild and make a Power Pack out of it, those parts are easy to find and cheap.

Vince
Thanks z28, I really appreciate your reply.
Can you give me some more information on those "power pack heads"
do they give the motor higher compression--higher flow runners?. I went to get some numbers off the heads that came off of the motor the only numbers at all on the head was "550" on the bottom, i also noticed the heads don't have any accessory bolt holes on the end of the heads, if that helps.

I also have a summit-racing cam to go in the motor... 224 duration and 0.465 lift and a 114 degree lsa is that going to be to much cam for this smaller motor? once again i bought this cam when i thought it was a 327.

Sorry for all the questions. :confused:
 

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pt-19boy said:
I may have to look into this.
Thanks sedan :cool:
The actual blocks that can be bored to 4" are now fairly rare. You block would have to be sonic checked to see if it could be bored that large. If it is the cylinder walls are so thin that the engines usually don't last that long. I would not advise that approach.

Vince
 

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If you plan on this being a daily driver I would recomend going with a set of mildly worked 416 heads, a performer manifold with EGR, and a about a 256 cam. Small diameter long tube headers and dual 2" exhaust. Your basic HEI igntion and a Holley 600 carb with vac. secondaries (this carb is as common as the cold and can be bought and rebuilt for less than $100). You could hit close to the 300 mark and it would be very drivable.

I did a quick DD run of a combo like this and ended up with 320hp and 350 tq, which I think is a bit optimistic but shows you should hit at least 300 hp.

And yes on an engine like this I would keep EGR and vacuum advance- there is no reason not to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
302 Z28 said:
The actual blocks that can be bored to 4" are now fairly rare. You block would have to be sonic checked to see if it could be bored that large. If it is the cylinder walls are so thin that the engines usually don't last that long. I would not advise that approach.

Vince
I was just saying that if i cant find a better way of making power i may look into doing something like that.

But if i can make 220+ hp with the stock bore i would be more interested in that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ap72 said:
If you plan on this being a daily driver I would recomend going with a set of mildly worked 416 heads, a performer manifold with EGR, and a about a 256 cam. Small diameter long tube headers and dual 2" exhaust. Your basic HEI igntion and a Holley 600 carb with vac. secondaries (this carb is as common as the cold and can be bought and rebuilt for less than $100). You could hit close to the 300 mark and it would be very drivable.

I did a quick DD run of a combo like this and ended up with 320hp and 350 tq, which I think is a bit optimistic but shows you should hit at least 300 hp.

And yes on an engine like this I would keep EGR and vacuum advance- there is no reason not to.
Thanks for the reply ap72,
But why would you want to keep the egr, is that for fuel economy?
But those numbers sure sound good :thumbup: if i could make that kind of power i would be more than happy with my 283. And i do really appreciate everyone's help.
 

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pt-19boy said:
Thanks for the reply ap72,
But why would you want to keep the egr, is that for fuel economy?
But those numbers sure sound good :thumbup: if i could make that kind of power i would be more than happy with my 283. And i do really appreciate everyone's help.

Engines have been proven to show less wear and have better milage with EGR, not to mention no power gains are almost never shown from removing it. It's another automotive old wive's tail. It only comes into effect during high vacuum situations (cruising) and has no effect on WOT power if it is functioning properly.

I should note that those 416 flow numbers I used were from a set of mildly worked heads- nothing you couldn't do yourself with about 15 hrs time and the right tools. They also had 1.94/1.5 valves which are stock size for most 350's and can be bought and installed relativley cheap.
 

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1.84's could work, but 1.94's could work just as well, perhaps a little better, when you have to do a VJ and buy new valves I would go with which ever is cheapest for this engine, a good VJ and some bowl work is going to make the biggest difference in the low lifts that we are talking about here. stepping up to a 1.94" valve would increase your curtian area by 5% and allow you more room to work the bowls with. It'd be an easy 5% gain, probably more.- that's only 15hp on this engine though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
zap60 said:
Are you "dead-set" on using the 283? If not, I would seriously consider finding a decent used 350 or 400 and start from there.
Well no, i would really like to have a 350 or a 383 even, but I've got a good condition 283 and I've already bought the parts to rebuild it so i guess I'm in to deep :embarrass. But i will keep my eyes open for a good priced 350. If i can find one i will definitely get it.
 

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Since you've bought the parts you may as well build a gas sipper with descent power. With the price of gas you may like the 283.

Look for the 601 truck or 416 SS Monte,Camaro etc.. 305ci heads. They are about 58cc + or - a cc and are the best small chamber factory heads.
Have 1.84" Intake & 1.50" Exhaust valves. Are much better than PowerPack's.
cc Info here is incorrect >> http://www.chevytech.com/3c14022601.html >> http://www.chevytech.com/3c14014416.html

Here's a few 305 builds for power comparison of small bore, it does have the 3.48" 350 stroke tho'. >> http://www.hioutput.com/tech/290hp/290hp.html >> http://www.hioutput.com/tech/343hp/343hp.html >> http://www.hioutput.com/tech/400hp/400hp.html

Some factory 57-67 283 HP/TQ numbers here.>> http://www.chevytech.com/1c1.html

Techinspector1 > What would the 58cc Swirl Port heads work like on the small 283?? Crap or descent? >> http://www.chevytech.com/3c14102193.html
 

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The PowerPack heads were just a suggestion to keep the engine period correct if that was desired.

Having said that: I had a 56 Chevy 210 sedan back in 1968 with a 283 .060 over with SpeedPro forged flat tops. The heads were stock 186 castings with screw in studs and guide plates, and a Crower rev kit. I don't remember the cam specs, but it was also Crower. I also had a dual plane Edelbrok aluminum intake similar to the Chevy Corvette. Mallory dual point with Mallory coil. Carter AFB carb, small tube steel headers. Car was equipped with a Muncie 4 speed with 3:70 open differential. I have no idea what the actual hp was, but the car was an absolute blast to drive. It would rev to 7K at the drop of a hat and did so on a regular basis. Each time I would have to bend the alternator fins back or reinstall the alternator belt. The car was still running strong when I sold it to go into the USAF in October of 69. One of dumbest things I have ever done...selling the car that is.

Vince
 

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Sounds like it was a fun ride Vince. A Cousin of mine had a 64 Chevy Short Bed P'up, Built 283, 4-speed. It would wind up. We didn't have the belt problem, did have a exploding clutch problem tho' shifting into 3rd and a long walk home. :( What a racket, could see chunks bouncing out the back on pavement.
 
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