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i adjusted the lifters down until they bottom out. the two on no. one cylinder wont tighten down without killind the engine. i cant figure out why unless i have bad lifters. all the other ones will bottom out ok. i was told to adjust these lifters was to tighten them down until they bottom out.
 

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boatbob2
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OK Charlie.............

The CORRECT way to adjust 289 and 302 lifters,is:loosen ALL your rocker arm nuts,tighten them slightly,until there is ONLY a small amount of movement between Rocker and push rod. (.010 or so) take a valve cover,cut in in half length wise (or drill 1 inch holes ,thru valve covers,in line with rocker arm nut)or you will have an oily mess,start engine ,let it idle,tighten rocker arm nut til play is gone,,,then loosen til it starts pounding,then tighten the nut til noise stops,then tighten nut another 1/4 turn,wait,then tighten another 1/4 turn,wait,tighten another 1/4 turn,each nut gets tightened 3/4 turn (totally) do all rocker arm adjustments the same,this puts the push rod,into the center of the lifter travel,:this is the way for flat tappet lifters ,NOT roller lifters
 

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WFO
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i adjusted the lifters down until they bottom out. the two on no. one cylinder wont tighten down without killind the engine. i cant figure out why unless i have bad lifters. all the other ones will bottom out ok. i was told to adjust these lifters was to tighten them down until they bottom out.
A lot depends on if the valve train is adjustable or not. If it's a net lash/non adjustable set up, you should be able to tighten the rockers down all the way to 20 ft/lb and the engine will remain running.

However if the valve train is adjustable, simply tightening them all the way down will hold the valves off their seats and the engine won't run that way.

It sounds like you must have a net lash set up, either pedestal mount or bottleneck stud if you can tighten some down to 20 ft/lbs.

If the pushrods are too long, that can cause the engine to stall w/the net lash type rockers tightened down.
 
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