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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
okay my car has a 6 cylinder motor in it and it pretty much died on me and i found a machine shop thats gonna sell me a 302 block complete for only 500. im also gonna pick up an aod tranny from them for 250. Is it just me or do these prices seem really cheap.
 

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six stang

It all depends on what condition they are in. If you are going to have to go all through them, its not such a good deal. What size is your 6? Is it a 200 or a 170?

Another option would be the 250 CID I-6 that was made starting in 69. It was a pretty torquey little number, and if you are trying to save on the green it may be the way to go. The difference is that the 250 uses the SBF bellhousings. It is based on the same engine you have now but has a slightly taller block due to the long stroke. There are also goodies out there for that engine which would make for a different ride. The 250 with the AOD would definately make a good econocruiser with enough power to keep up on the highway.

That would require some linkage modifications for the kickdown on the AOD though.

some other things to consider.
what year is the 302 and how many miles are on it. ditto for the transmission.
 

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for a good deal... depends on use and mileage of both motor and trans
are you going efi or carb? and im guessing that its going in a stang. what year?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
They both come with a 6 month warranty and im gonna get both of them together at the same time. Im planning on using this motor for mainly street use and was wondering if there was anything i should ask or look for to make sure that itll be a good motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok the only thing is i need some info on the swap. i already did the suspension and got a radiator for the 302. what other parts should i buy before hand so that i can set everything up and just pop the motor in and bolt it on.
 

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stang 67

Does your car have 4 or five lug wheels? If it has the 4 lug, you may want to consider upgrading to 5 lug hubs etc. Also curious of what differential you have. If you have the integral, Dana type rear end, I am concerned about it handling the 302. If it has an 8 or 9 inch rear, you are ok.
 

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your gonna need
exhaust, headers,h-pipe,mufflers, and if u want tailpipes
upgrade fuel system (bigger pump) if its electric
crossmember
motor mounts
ignition
water pump and any other accessories it doesnt come with(pulleys)
driveshaft
shifter linkage
thats the main stuff, theres always some little stuff thats different in every situation
 

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probably also want

You said you did the suspension? Did you include:

new front coil springs 450-500lb is a nice ride, 600 is very stiff

may be a heavier sway bar, my choice, 3/4 with urathane bushings, firm enough

For the power and weight added, your brakes are way undersized......., DO convert to the 5bolt/bigger brakes ASAP

Good news?....if your 6 was a stick, it's already got 3.20 gears
Bad news?....if it was auto it's 2.83

Best way to know if a long block was built right...do a compression test on it. Tester guage, $40, local parts store. You need a battery, starter motor and jumper cables and 5 qts of oil and a filter.

With no plugs in the motor,screw the tester into each cylinder, jump the starter motor till the guage stops increasing. the readings should to be less than + or- 10% of the median reading for all 8. Ex: 145,152,144, etc. The amount of psi tells you roughly the compression ratio which you want to know for the carb and intake. (Max, correct these if I'm wrong) 140psi=8/1,160psi=9/1 175=10/1.+

The guy says NO you can't do the test, then get it in writing that the cylinder pressures are +- 10% or he WILL give you a refund.

He says OK to the refund, give him a deposit check immediately!

You show up at his shop with a compression tester, batt, etc, he knows you know what your doing......
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
alright well i already have the 5 lug suspension on the car. The car came with it and disc brakes also i just redid the suspension and also ordered some better springs. i got to check this weekend as to what size rearend i have. I was thinking of just keeping my tranny and rear end untill i get more funds so that i can get some rear gears and afford a shift kit and all that good stuff for the aod. my main focus is to get the motor in and running good. I plan to do this swap in january and hope to be done with everything by feb. Its gonna take a while since i only have 1 day off a week from work. i would need to get a different bellhousing in order to make the 302 fit into my c4 that has a 200 motor attached to it right?
 

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go for the motor, just get a diffrent transmission. aod and aod/e's are quite possibly the crappiest transmissions ever built by foord. i have an aod/e in my linc, and i kill myself everytime it has to go into the shop(which is about 2 times a week):drunk:
 

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AOD

mk8, it sounds like whoever is working on your tranny needs to be replaced. My son has an AODE behind his 347 stroker with all the goodies, in his 93 Mustang, and its held up to his abuse for the past 6 yrs on it. The only thing thats been done to his tranny is a shift kit and a 2500 RPM stall, with a non locking shaft.
 

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stangman,

stay with the C-4, you just saved alot of bucks, everything you need for the swap is at the u-pull it yard.

do ALOT of hwy/long trips, buy the AOD, pay for the conversion kit.

need to know the motor year to use your tranny and flywheel,
it's stamped in the block above the starter, will read like C6AE14a, c=60 6=66", d=70, e=80's

weird, a six with 5bolt? At Ford "the line never stops", out of 4bolt, use 5bolt. Wish they didn't do that. who know what gears youv'e got........

check this, pull a rear drum and measure the shoe width, 1 and 3/4" or 2" wide shoes = V8, good ! 1 and 1/2, bad....

gears???: easier with 2 people, put the rear on stands in neutral. crayon mark on the tire and on the drive shaft (more accurate if you drop the drive shaft, mark the universal joint) rotate the tire slowly and count the drive shaft revolutions, 3 rev's and the mark is back where you put it=3.0, 3revs and the mark is past where you put it, probably 3.25, 3rev's and the mark is before where you put it, probably 2.80.

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wanna be different, you can build a 230hpft/290ft/lb 6 cylinder that is quicker on the street than a 302 cause your about 200 lbs lighter in the front and that helps traction for (?) $500-800
 

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Stangman196700 said:
I was thinking of just keeping my tranny and rear end untill i get more funds so that i can get some rear gears and afford a shift kit and all that good stuff for the aod. my main focus is to get the motor in and running good. I plan to do this swap in january and hope to be done with everything by feb. Its gonna take a while since i only have 1 day off a week from work. i would need to get a different bellhousing in order to make the 302 fit into my c4 that has a 200 motor attached to it right?
For the trouble of changing the bellhousing, I'd get the AOD now for that price. You can live with the tall rear gears for awhile until you get the scratch to replace them.
 

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pmeisal,

The Windsor /Fox parts to convert an old Mustang to AOD ain't cheap.
Searching my (totally gone) memory, by the time your done it's about $500-700? in hardware to swap in a AOD and you gotta buy it all.

I say: wait till he tells us what year the motor is to choose the tranny. flat tappet=C4 roller motor=AOD

I would: have a tranny shop evaluate the AOD, good, buy it and put it in a plastic bag in the garage, start shopping the swap meets/ebay/etc for used Fox /Windsor parts. Run the C-4 till it pucks. If it is a 5.0 roller302, a junkyard $20? bellhousing, he can burn up the C-4. "you got it, use it"
 
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