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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the cam went flat in the 305 and we replaced it will a set of lifters and k1103 cam from summit and now when you time it if its on 0 degrees advanced its fine but even on 4 degrees advanced it has a hard time starting sometimes when its warm it acts like it has a dead battery kind of i dont really know any other way of explaining it but we tried to move the distributor a tooth backwards but it will not move from that spot on the cam otherwise if it does move a tooth its way to far basically also my heat only works on one setting for the fan speed iv cleaned the contact points and it doesnt really do anything plus it doesnt blow through the dash vents it blows through the defrost and floor vents only
 

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the cam went flat in the 305 and we replaced it will a set of lifters and k1103 cam from summit and now when you time it if its on 0 degrees advanced its fine but even on 4 degrees advanced it has a hard time starting sometimes when its warm it acts like it has a dead battery kind of i dont really know any other way of explaining it but we tried to move the distributor a tooth backwards but it will not move from that spot on the cam otherwise if it does move a tooth its way to far basically also my heat only works on one setting for the fan speed iv cleaned the contact points and it doesnt really do anything plus it doesnt blow through the dash vents it blows through the defrost and floor vents only
When you say timed it 'on 0 degrees it's fine but even on 4 degrees advanced it has a hard time starting'. Are you talking about cam timing or ignition timing? First, when you installed the cam did you line up the marks on the timing gears and did you verify #1 TDC is at the balancer mark? I'm thinking that you are referencing 0 and 4 degrees in regards to ignition timing rather than cam timing.

Based on an assumption that the cam is installed 4 degrees advanced (the 4 degrees is built into the cam) and that you have installed it correctly regarding the timing marks on the timing gears, it sounds like you are not setting the ignition timing correctly.

Is the carb, intake, motor internals stock? If no, then advise what you have. How are you setting the ignition timng?

FWIW, when you put in the distributor you can put in at any tooth, it doesn't matter, but it needs to be rotated OR the plug wires installed in the proper location so that the rotor is at #1 plug wire, wherever that may be, when #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke.

p.s. - don't take this wrong, but what you are describing gives the appearance that you are not using the appropriate terms in the appropriate context. Basically, tell us what you have and what you've done and someone here will help you figure it out.

Good luck - Jim
 

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IMHO, that 1103 cam is a lil too much for a stock-mild (8.5:1- 9:1 CR) 305. it'll work in a 305 with a min CR of 9.2:1 , installed on a 107 degree intake centerline, but will need at least a 2500 stall (if auto trans) and deep gears (4.10:1 +). it gives up A LOT OF LOW RPM TORQ in a 305. to get it back, its gonna needs a good stall and good gears. heres cam specs from a stock 305HO out of the monte carlo SS.
NAPA AUTO PARTS
compared to the 1103, as you can see, it has less duration and lift, more LSA, but worked really well in the higher CR 305HO. the monte ss had better gears and more stall to help the lil stock HO cam.

if you compared a stock 175hp 8.5:1 305 truck motor (a lot smaller cam then the HO cam) to a modded 9.2:1 305 with the 1103 cam. the stock 8.5 motor will out perform, out pull, better MPG, then the modded 9.2 with the 1103 cam, til 3000 rpm, then the modded 305 will start to wake up.

I've had to pull the 1103 out of stock low CR 305's, because owners thought they had a 350, or owners thought it was good match for a stock 8.5:1 305, its not. it just gives up way too much for down low daily street use, as much as 30-40 lbs/torq less, under 3000 rpm. a better match was the stock 350 cam (194/204 112 LSA) or the 1101 cam. and I had to advance it 4 or more degrees to get that low rpm torq back. just my 2 cents on the 1103 in a 305.

as for you ignition timing, are you 100% sure the balancer hasn't slipped????
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
it is a HO 305 but its got an edelbrock carb with spacer stock intake off a like caprice car or something its a gm aluminum intake stock exhaust manifolds with no cats or any thing just straight pipe back to cherry bombs then to the tail pipes has true duals and the cam was installed right and was inline with the crank and #1 was on TDC and it read zero when everything was installed and everything but i timed it and advanced it to 8 and then it would literally not start so i retarded it to get it to run and its like at 4 or so right now and that i guess base timing or whatever its with the light the carb is an edelbrock 1405 and yes im planning in a few months to get posi and 3.73 gears in it then later down the road a new stall and some other things till i just get a 350 or what ever haha really would like to find a 400 sbc that would be pretty neat
 

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I have the edelbrock 2102 (very similar to summit 1102) in my 305 ho with a performer intake, 2.25 exhaust & 3.73 gears. For what it is the thing moves at any rpm. Anyways it has those same starting issues in the cold & takes a while to warm up. Warm weather no problems. I don't think I would want any more cam on that motor & plan to reuse the cam when the 350 is ready to go in.
 

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http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Timing_tabs_and_damper_TDC_lines_SBC

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Determining_top_dead_center

the 2102 and 1102 cam is a VERY good match for an iron headed 9.5:1 305. if set on a 113* intake center line, it doesn't give up too much low rpm torq, and still pull hard up to 5500. a very good choice :thumbup:.

greg can you post, for the OP, where you have your timing set??? initial and mechanical. I still say the balancer has slipped if he can only get 4* BTDC.
 

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It was installed by the previous owner but I believe edelbrock specs 8 degrees & there is a 4 degree advance so it would actually be 4 when setting it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
so why is my car having a hard time starting sometimes? should i set it back to 0 because it seems to like it better and why does my heat not blow through the dash vents
 

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Two seperate issues here. Let's tackle the starting issue, let's get away from the timing for now, and start more basic, the motor was out of the car. So how and where are the ground? Battery, engine, body etc, all clean, proper guage wire, tight and on good metal?
How's the battery? What temp is the motor at when its hard to start?
Start with those first....
Your heat issue, start with the blower motor resistor, that why you only have one speed....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
its not any of that its something to do with the timing once it is at 0 its perfectly fine and the motor was not out of the car
 

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yes. set it back to where it starts the best. set it at 2* BTDC, GO RUN IT TIL IT GETS HOT, normal temp, GO BACK HOME, TURN IT OFF, WAIT 5 MINS, see how it starts. OOPs sorry for the caps. if its hard to start, turn it to 0*. it COULD BE the wrong timing tab and/or balancer. can you post a pic of the balancer and tab with #1 cylinder at TRUE TDC??? pull the dizzy cap and rotor, look for broken or missing advance springs. maybe the weights are hangin???? do you have a dial back timing light????
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
oh my... well i never would have thought it was the balancer.. we didnt have a balancer puller and used a wheel puller well it pulled it in half and we got a new one and it was about half the thickness of the stock one
 

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did you read those wiki's I posted for you???? its common to find the wrong balancers and tabs on sbc's. are you getting ignition advance when you rev the motor from idle???? if it starts fine, and not pinging under load, you are good, as long as you are getting some ignition timing advance above 1400. but, you really need to read those wiki's and get to understand ignition timing. I'm not being short with you, its just hard to explain when not in person.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
so do you think the thinner one my have something to do with it? should i get a stock one? and also does anyone know why nothing blows through the dash vents
 
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