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Discussion Starter #1
i have a 2 bolt main large journal 327 with arp bolts and a cast crank turned .010, speed pro hyper +.040 flat tops, eagle sir i beam rods with arps, cam is a summit k1104 specs are 224/224, .466 lift, 114 lsa.
i have been looking at a bare set of promaxx(formerly patriot?) cast iron 2150 heads with 64cc chambers 2.02/1.60 valves, 185cc/60cc intake/exhaust runners, for about 800$ to my door, i plan on doing some cleanup and porting on the heads then installing quality springs and valves. anyone have any input on these heads or another setup for under 1000$ shipped?
it should be around 9.3 compression and i was wondering if this would be fine on 91 octane with my cam? what kind of rpm will this bottom end be safe for? i was also wondering what kind of crank hp i might be expecting, i was shooting for the 350-400 range but i really dont know id like some input please, car is a 83 z28 with a 5spd and 3.73s full interior
 

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check the cost of profilers in your area. Everyone seems to like them as a bargain performance head.The power you make depends on the head flow.Your tach will need to twist up to or beyond 6k to make 400 hp.
 

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Yep, like Vinnie said, the Pro-filers are a hell of a deal. Somewhere around $1100 ish, but the Patriots work well if youncnt swing the profilers. I used a set of 195's and they have seen a lot of mileage and abuse. Still working well last in heard.
The Jegs house brand head are pro-filers fwi
 

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Discussion Starter #4
those profiler 180cc's are guna run about 1250 shipped up here which is a little more then im looking to spend, i can actually get the aluminum promaxx 64/185cc heads for 960$ assembled but isn't it a bad idea to buy a pre assembled cheaper set of heads? not knowing what kind of valves and springs got put in and how well it was done? also since i want to try my hand at some porting. also vinnie you said im guna have to spin 6k+ to make 400 is that safe on a cast crank with arp's? do you guys think ill be able to make 300rwhp with this setup with 5 speed? because that is my main goal, 350-400 at the crank was my unexpert guess lol, thanks i appreciate the info!
 

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Im not scared of cast cranks.I am scared of engines put together with minimum budget. Quality machine work and careful blue printing will net the best results. A cheapo hydraulic flat tappet cam will not help much.
 

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Go with assault racing heads, buy them bare, ammeble with the parts you need, have them milled to hit your target compression.

Eventually you'll need to get a decent cam, if you want to rev it is go with a solid.
 

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Go with assault racing heads, buy them bare, ammeble with the parts you need, have them milled to hit your target compression.

Eventually you'll need to get a decent cam, if you want to rev it is go with a solid.
I thought the assaults came only in a 200? Lots of compression and rpm to make use on a 327 no?
I agree, I hear nothing but good about them, but a 180 will be better suited.
The promaxx works and I agree, buy them bare and fill with good parts....that being said.....
Both sets I used were bought assembled through Summit....they were fine for what I was doing and I had no issues.
 

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I thought the assaults came only in a 200? Lots of compression and rpm to make use on a 327 no?
I agree, I hear nothing but good about them, but a 180 will be better suited.
The promaxx works and I agree, buy them bare and fill with good parts....that being said.....
Both sets I used were bought assembled through Summit....they were fine for what I was doing and I had no issues.
200 is no problem on a street 327, if it was a tow truck, maybe not but it'll be fine for a hot street toy.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
iv looked at the assults and i cant find them in anything but 200cc like bygddy said, this isnt guna be a super high rpm motor i was thinking 6k's a safe max number?, i plan on running it on a road trip this summer so i dont want a crazy motor that wont idle or run on pump gas but i dont want a slouch, and ill be staying away from solid cams, i dont think its guna get gas mileage worth talking about but id like decent driveablity, is this cam i chose really that bad of a choice for what im guna be using it for? if it is is there something thats going to fit my needs a whole lot better? if there is im willing to junk that 100$ new cam i bought it when i was on a much tighter budget
 

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Large journal Cast crank and that short stroke is no problem even to 7000 rpm...It wouldn't even enter my mind to even worry about it.

If you didn't already have it, I'd say the #1106 might be a better cam, but what you have should run right up to 6200-6400 rpm in a little 327, especially with a decent head like you are planning. You won't find any big difference going to a fancy brand name at this level, so keep what you have.

Ought to make a good little budget engine.

I'd be more worried about that 5-speed, it will only last if you don't speed shift it.

91 octane would be fine with aluminum heads, probably even 89 octane.

Use a Performer RPM or Summit's own Stage 2 dual plane #226014 (or equivilent like Professional Products Typhoon, Weiand Stealth)and a 650-750 cfm carb.
 

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Flat tappet cams are stressfull, they have a significantly higher failure rate and generally make less power then an equivelant roller across the board.
I personally think they have their place, and for my own stuff they don't scare me. But use caution.
If the money is there to do a retro roller then that's what you should be looking at.
If its mine, and I'm looking for a reliable, fun, strong little motor, I would likely stick with the 185's
And use this cam. Mild by most accounts, but in a little 327 would be a little snotty and make good power.
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hrs-cl111145-10/overview/make/chevrolet
Topped with a performer rpm, a Holley 650/750DP
And whatever gear fits your needs best.
Would be fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
edelbrock thunder 650 with elec choke was the carb i was planning on, and i was thinking about the summit stage 3 intake what would be the reason for chosing the stage 2? i know im worried about the 5 spd too,im trying to find a t56 but first im going to get this running and driving for a while, car is guna have basic cheap headers with mufflers im not quite sure on what kind of setup yet
 

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Make sure you are familiar with the oil type needed for use with a flat tappet cam....this is very important, modern motor oils for todays engines with roller cams are not good enough for use with flat tappet cams, so make sure you educate yourself about the oil and/or oil additive you will need and the proper break-in procedure for the flat tappet cam.

Just a heads up about that fact.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i also dont think ill be investing in a 650$ roller setup if i switch cams it will be to a different flat tapppet grind, i figured the .466 lift on the cam i have now shouldnt be TOO stressfull on everything and maybe ill get something different in the future but i kinda doubt the roller setup will ever happen
 

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If you want the Air Gap type intake, you can, but it won't make any more power and just take longer to fully warm up on the street. It will run cranky until it fully warms up.

RPM and RPM Air Gap are the same intakes except for that air gap...same runners size and shape on both
 

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Discussion Starter #17
yeah planned on using a high zinc break in oil, break in procedure for a flat tappet is 2k-2500rpm for 20 or 30 minutes alternating the rpm up and down throughout the break in right?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
i never took the extra warm up time with the air gap into account, i think ill be staying away from that now that you mentioned that (cold up here in alaska lol), and only question about break in, after the 30 minute cam break in i change oil then drive it easy for a 500 mile break in period then another oil change? and then i can run the piss out of it ;D?
 

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I have put some T5's through a lot of abuse.....on the street, on street tires..... they aernt that bad..... slicks, traction, power shifting kills them.
The 650 ede works if you already have it. Not the way to make the most power, but nice and friendly "set and forget" street rod Carb.
 
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