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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi guys, thanks for excepting me.

Building a 69 350 4 bolt. 030 over has dished pistons L2441F.

Edelbrock aluminum 64cc heads.

Have 2 cams to pick from.
1. Isky 264 mega
2. Crower 00244.

Rear is 3:42, auto with shift kit, 2400 stall.

Which would be the better of the 2?
I'm thinking #1 as I don't see 11:1, however #2 say 9-10:5 CR.

Good or bad, let's hear it.
Thanks
Troy
 

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1979 Chevrolet Malibu 496-TH400-9" (cruiser). 1992 Chevrolet S10 355-700r4-7.625" (daily driver).
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#1 Isky 264 mega cam. With those pistons, you really should run a "64cc" chamber. That would give you something like 8.5:1. It would run on 87 octane and suit the camshaft reasonably well.

As Moosecountry alluded to, some information on the application is useful when seeking a camshaft recommendation. This case is very clear cut and the information was not really needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Sorry edit did not take. I added them, Edelbrock aluminum 64cc performer heads. Intake Edelbrock EPS. New Holley 650 carb.
Exhaust is 2.5 pypes duals.
1.5 roller rocker or just roller tips I have both.

Also just opened up my original 69 4 bolt and it is standard bore. Out of my Nova.

Hot street use.
 

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torker intake is basically junk. With a spacer its kinda like a tarantula intake.
The performer intake will save you 15 pounds adding close to zero hp.
I personally dont like hydraulic flat tappet cams,,,rough bumpity idle, not tune able like a solid, solid revs quicker and smoother idle.
I rev my engines past 6k,,,

that 650 with a spacer on the torker might make 10 more hp on the top end and not be as good below 3k rpm
 

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1979 Chevrolet Malibu 496-TH400-9" (cruiser). 1992 Chevrolet S10 355-700r4-7.625" (daily driver).
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You have a decent combination of parts there. If I understand the original inquiry, you are interested in building with what you have. The 264 mega cam, the ~8.5:1 compression, the Performer EPS, the 650 Holley and whichever rocker arm fits under whatever valve cover you have will operate well together. Engine building is so much about the combination of parts. The gear ratio and torque converter work well here, too.
 

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You have a decent combination of parts there. If I understand the original inquiry, you are interested in building with what you have. The 264 mega cam, the ~8.5:1 compression, the Performer EPS, the 650 Holley and whichever rocker arm fits under whatever valve cover you have will operate well together. Engine building is so much about the combination of parts. The gear ratio and torque converter work well here, too.
Yeah, I agree, with that compression ratio and heads combined with the gear and converter you have use the 264 Mega.
Don't expect a lot, heads aren't that great without a little port work, if used out-of-the-box maybe 340-350 hp.

The Crower 00244 could get you to 400 hp, but you'd have to rev it 6500 with a better intake manifold and a lot more converter stall to go with that cam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Thanks guys, at this point I just need to get it running.

I do have a set or rebuilt double hump 2.02 heads as well.

BTW, I am not opposed to buying a new cam this is just what I had laying around.
 

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Funny thing is nowadays you can sell the camel bump heads for a good price and buy better heads with that money. Eric can put you on cheap [budget] heads that will make a lot more power. 430 hp is a stout 350 cube and can be obtained for a reasonable price. Do your own math, over 400 hp Vs 360 hp? Sell all those intakes you have and buy a performer rpm intake? Sell the roller tip rockers or as an old member once said toss them over the fence.
I can see you have the $ but want to use what you have. I say let someone else use what you have and get a couple premium parts to use,,,
 

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Factory head’s prior to the 1996 L31 Vortec are way under the power curve. Bolted on top the old 375 horse Corvette engine in place of the Camel Humps that came on it you have a 410 hp engine.

Old iron Camel Humps bring some good money from parts matching restorers or from guys running in specific race classes that require them. However, even in the last statement many race organizations are recognizing aftermarket “stock replacement” head’s with modern L31 Vortec chambers as being stock head’s. Given this chamber is worth 30 to 60 horsepower depending on cam and valve train stability over Camel Humps even in class racing the old head’s fate is sealed to being on the history pile as they just can’t compete with modern chambered head’s. Hot rodders figured this out before 1996 was even over and it’s just been forefront engine building knowledge ever since.

I have yet to run numbers on compression with your pistons but gut knowledge tells me that 20cc relief in the crown is too much and compression will be too low to optimize torque and power on modern unleaded fuels. A lot has changed not only with head’s but also in cam, intake, carb, and piston design.

A simple build using a compression ratio of about 9.5 to 1 using L31 Vortec head’s or a modern chambered aftermarket head, an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, a 650 to 750 CFM carb or aftermarket TBI injection, a cam equivalent to the Comp XE268H, 1.6 roller rockers on 7/16th studs, long tube headers at least 1-5/8ths primaries but bigger is better up to 1-3/4qtrs if you can fit them will build an engine that pumps out between 400 to 430 ft pounds at 3500/3800 RPM with horsepower from 370 to 410 between 5700/5900 RPM. The 370 compared to the old 375 ‘vette engine was that it had fuel injection and 10.5 to 11.0 compression and a lot of cam. I’m talking 650 cfm carb, the sighted cam and 9.0 compression on the lower power build with Vortec head’s to the higher numbers with the same cam a larger 750 cfm carb, light porting of just clean up and blending no shape changes, stouter valve train that doesn’t wiggle as the revs get toward 6000, and 1-5/8ths to 1-3/4qtr primary headers.

In all of these the cam is at the high end of a stock stall converter but doesn’t require a converter stall change. The torque and power curves come up fast and are near peak over a long rpm bands rather than pop to a peak then fade so this is a very friendly street build easy to drive with near staggering amounts of power. You cannot get to this total combination of drive-ability and power with Camel Hump head’s.

The tricks that you get into is aluminum head’s really need the block to be zero decked or the use of raised crown pistons. This is because of the need to correct the squish/quench clearance for optimum performance in a range of .035 to .045 inch with the head gasket. This is given that aluminum head’s like composite gaskets to settle the rubbing issue between the less thermally mobile iron block and the more thermally mobile aluminum head’s. The thinnest composite gasket is .026 inch which when mixed with pistons .025 below the head deck the result is a bit too wide S/Q clearance of .051 inch. Not that this doesn’t work with aluminum head’s but if you’re pushing to max every element this is wider than ideal with aluminum and would be detonation problematic with iron head’s on modern fuels.

Iron moves heat much slower than aluminum so it becomes detonation sensitive much sooner than aluminum. That said the aftermarket does supply modern chambered and port shaped head’s in iron. These are less expensive than aluminum and allow the use of shim gaskets of .015 to .020 which when combined with Chevy’s natural .025 inch piston crown to deck clearance puts the S/Q in the range of .030 to .044 inch.

I’ll play with your pistons and compression ratios later to give you some options on how to treat this build.

Old saw is you need to come here first before plunking hard earned money on parts that don’t work that well in the contemporary era.

Bogie
 

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Changing from the Performer heads at this point with the rest of the parts list really isn't worth it IMO.

You'll be better off if you were going to spend $$$ for a different head to spend that money on better pistons, a re-bore, and fresh rings.

If you want to spend a little money, get a better intake manifold, like a Performer RPM or a clone. Dump the intakes you have on Facebook or whatever and get rid of those to recover some cost from them.

If you really are after "hot street use" you don't have enough converter stall for that combination.
The 3.42 gears could be lived with as a nice 'compromise' gear for cruising too, but it makes converter stall speed choice ultra critical versus just putting 4.10 rear gears in it to make it jump and living with the 2400 stall converter.

If you are really pinching the coin and have funds for just one change, my choice would be a nice custom torque converter, a tight 9.5-10.0" diameter deal. It will make the biggest improvement of any single part upgrade by far.
tight so it will behave fine at part throttle, but stalled so it will raise your hair when you stand on it.
3400-3600 stall.
Well worth the $400-500 cost....toss that 2400 stall on Facebook with that Torker II intake.
 
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