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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there, is a question that may seem basic but I haven't found the answer to yet.

Can I modify an early 350 crank to fit a late model block?

I blew up my early 350 motor (2 peice rear oil seal) by destroying the bore/cam journals, I have been given a late model (1 piece rear oil seal) block and would like to know if it is possible to my Eagle 4430 forged steel crank in it and if anyone else has done this. I have access to a basic machine shop to turn up a spacer for the oil seal if that is the only difference.

Cheers
 

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:D

As one of the Moderators here, let me be the first to WELCOME you here.....

General Motors makes a seal adaptor to do this. The number is

# 10051118

Scoggins Dickey sells them on line for $98.95

http://www.sdpc2000.com/search.asp?searchterm=10051118&doquery=1

I do not know if they ship worldwide.........maybe you could get it in your country......

It is in the GM Performance Parts Catalog here in the states
 

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I've seen aftermarket adapters for this, but for the life of me I can't remember who was selling them. If I remember correctly they were $100+.

If someone else on the board doesn't respond, I'd try a Google search.

Good luck.
 

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you might want to check with your local automotive machinist and have him install the adapter for you? as the stock dowl pins need to be removed and replaced with new pins that line up the adapter with the use of a special plug! If this is not done properly the seal will Leak!:rolleyes:
 

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Come Home Safe Soldier
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Just curious.I have never seen it,butif they make adapters for it it must be.Do you need to have a machinist remove the extra rim on the back of the crank where the two piece seal rests?The one piece has the crank in the block and the seal and retainer bolt to the block over the crank rear hub itself.Wheras on an earlier style two piece there is that thin piece of a lip that the seal rests in.The link did not show a picture of the part and I can not picture how it would work in my head.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Crank Adapter Seal

Hi Rcastle

The seal bolts to the block similar to the one piece seal but is a little thicker and can be split in two for the 2 peice seal to fit into.

I'll try to attach a pic of it... If you were looking at an installed moter, this pic has the adapter upside down and with the split running almost horizontal (the pic is a little scew-if)

Cheers
 

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Come Home Safe Soldier
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I understand the housing,what has me curious is the crank itself.how does the seal work on it?The first is a crank with the two piece design,see the ridge behind where the rear main journal is?That ridge holds the seal in that area.
 

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Come Home Safe Soldier
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This here is the one piece design,it has the smoothe surface for the seal at the rear hub of the crank,There is no need for the ridge with the one piece seal.I am just wondering if you need to have that ridge removed to install an early model crank into a late model engine.Thanx
 

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Discussion Starter #11
350 cranks

The ridge on the early crank seems to fit flush with the outside of the late model block and as far as I can tell will not need to be removed for the adapter seal plate to fit. This is from just a visual inspection with the different cranks sitting in the bare block and using a straight edge to see the alignment.

I'll get some picks soon.
 

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Come Home Safe Soldier
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Cool,Man I have been wondering about that all night at work.Well not really,but it did cross my mind a few times.
 

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I'll bet you can get Scoggins Dickey to ship to Darwin. I buy my cats' flea medicine online from Sydney and it arrives here in sunny California in about 2 days!:thumbup:

Bluesman
 

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I would not do it get another crank, counter weigths may be different. You can usually get a scat crank new for the price of machine work and parts to cobble it up. Or get another block core.They are all over the place.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
350 block and crank

There seems to only a few drawbacks from living in Australia, one of them is the prices of chevy parts, an Eagle chrome-moly crank is over $AU1000, Scat cranks are a bit cheaper but not by much. 350 short motors start at about $AU600 for a rebuilder (and usually already at .040) and go up from there. The prices in the US are much, much cheaper but the freight then kills the advantage. We also get hammered by import duties on new things by customs, they base the duty on market value so buying cheap new parts is not always the way to go. I will admit that I have recently found a great parts supplier in the US who is friendly, efficient and will have my business when I win lotto, they are Northern Auto Parts (http://www.northernautoparts.com).

Now for my project... my car is a mud racer that goes around a figure 8 track, about 450metres long with jumps and holes up to a metre deep, obviously all in mud. This is really punishing on motors and running gear and trying to keep the mud out is a never ending pursuit of sealing/breathing. I do this as an escape from the daily ho-hum and an excuse for a beers or two after racing, or maybe a dozen and then to talk about what has broken.

I will attach a pic of the car, no laughing... Ok you can laugh now. Life isn't meant to be serious !

Cheers
 

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