I'll give you some advice I learned the hard way. Don't get the block machined until you have all the parts for a short block. Otherwize you could be sitting with a fully machined block ($$$) RUSTING while you save money for a crank, rods, etc. You can however, get the block magnafluxed (to check for cracks) to make sure it's worth using. Feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions, etc. Good luck, The Vandal
350 Chevy build
I have received a 350 Chevy block from my brother for my 1974 Nova....he said I can build it up however....any suggestions on the build to make this 350 move....all that there is the block.....I can have it bored....everything....
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Decide what you want the motor to do for you first. Bracket racer,street cruzer,everyday driver.The reason i say this is there are plenty of free blocks laying around.If its a everyday driver you cant beat chevys 1275 buck brand new 350 its got a 3 year 36,000 mile gaurantee. Change the cam in it with a good intake and carb and it will have good power and run forever on a very cheap money(cheaper than rebuilt and its NEW) I think with all the choices you have with chevy crate motors i would not even build one anymore unless i was going to race it.zz4 cost me 3000 the other day also bought a ram jet in the crate for 4300 bucks so its hard to beat new.Just a thought.Decide your budget first.
Yea I agree with the other post DECIDE what YOU want then buy parts !!! for the street I suggest a Eldelbrook combo (cam intake Carb) Remember take you CI and double it for the street for the CFM for the carb but for sure have the Machine work done first been doing SB all my life E-mail me if ya want more info
If this is to be a street car with daily driving in mind, build a mild 350 with flat top pistons and a mild torque cam. Quality engine kits can be purchased from NORTHERN AUTO PARTS, their 350 Chevy master kit is $149.00. They will up grade to a performance cam for a just a few dollars more. The Chevy vortec heads are very reasonably priced and cost about what you would spend on rebuilding a stock set, however you must use a special intake for the vortec heads. Edelbrock sells this type manifold for a carb. One of the big mistakes beginners make when doing a rebuild is buying a camshaft with too much lift and duration and also a carburator that is too big. Build the engine for torque, rather than horsepower.
If you are starting from scratch and rebuilding the complete engine, I suggest making it a 383. You already have the 350 block and the extra stroke of a 400 crank is worth almost 40 ft-lb of torque with nothing else changed. Spend the extra $$ and use a piston for 5.7" length rods.
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Download Free Engine Math Calculator
I am going to go with flat top pistons, Holley 650 spread bore part number..6210, Competition Cams"
cam, a hydraulic 280H combine. I'll have removed from the surface, .040 thou' and some slight bowl work around the valves on the heads, a set of
headers and I already have an edelbrock performer intake manifold that came with the motor. This is the first rebuild done on this 1985 motor which came from a suburban. After reading posts on
the internet and talking to people who build
daily drivers and street rods, I have come
to the conclusion that keeping it simple and
not buying all the hyped up gadgets will make
for a dependable beefy motor that will last
a long time. Do some research and think
about what you will do with this motor. Will
you really ever get it above 6000-6500 rpm on
the street? Do you want to impress your
friends at the local strip or have it look
good at the shows? If your looking for good
power think about going beyond the obvious too.
Don't just get the cam, intake, and exhaust.
Be sure to do the work on the heads. If your
increasing the intake be sure you can export it.
Open the ports up a little bit to let them breath the extra pressure you created from added
volume and intake. Many rebuilders neglect purchasing new heads or modifying existing heads to export the increased intake what a waste!
GET IT BALANCED!
[ December 01, 2001: Message edited by: azramb ]</p>
cam, a hydraulic 280H combine. I'll have removed from the surface, .040 thou' and some slight bowl work around the valves on the heads, a set of
headers and I already have an edelbrock performer intake manifold that came with the motor. This is the first rebuild done on this 1985 motor which came from a suburban. After reading posts on
the internet and talking to people who build
daily drivers and street rods, I have come
to the conclusion that keeping it simple and
not buying all the hyped up gadgets will make
for a dependable beefy motor that will last
a long time. Do some research and think
about what you will do with this motor. Will
you really ever get it above 6000-6500 rpm on
the street? Do you want to impress your
friends at the local strip or have it look
good at the shows? If your looking for good
power think about going beyond the obvious too.
Don't just get the cam, intake, and exhaust.
Be sure to do the work on the heads. If your
increasing the intake be sure you can export it.
Open the ports up a little bit to let them breath the extra pressure you created from added
volume and intake. Many rebuilders neglect purchasing new heads or modifying existing heads to export the increased intake what a waste!
GET IT BALANCED!
[ December 01, 2001: Message edited by: azramb ]</p>
Originally posted by The Vandal:
<strong>I'll give you some advice I learned the hard way. Don't get the block machined until you have all the parts for a short block. Otherwize you could be sitting with a fully machined block ($$$) RUSTING while you save money for a crank, rods, etc. You can however, get the block magnafluxed (to check for cracks) to make sure it's worth using. Feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions, etc. Good luck, The Vandal</strong><hr></blockquote>
It has always been my understanding that the block machine work should come first. That is because if say, you by the master kit in a standard size and then thr machinist says he has to bore it out to .030 and regrind the crank. You are stuck with a lot of engine pieces most stores won't take back. I just feel its better to measure twice and buy once.
The choice is really up to you.If you want to rebuild have the block and crank checked over first,if not I would get a kit 30 over and 10 under then hope there are no terminal problems with the crank or block.Crate motors are quick and easy I use them for most of what I do,but It's not as much fun as building your own its a good feeling to fire an engine the first time and be able to say I did it myself.
every one has their own ideas as to how is the right way and wrong to build any engine their is a program caleed DESK TOP DYNO it will let you enter information on any engine to see horse power and torque results it is very good and very acurate as long as the info you put in it is acurate it will help you put together a good running engine for your application myself i would build the engine over buying a crate motor but i enjoy the task of takin cold metal and making a thumper out of it if i can be of help in any way
[email protected]
[email protected]
I worked in an engine shop for awile and a thing that i learned was to let the engine sit for as long as you want. Let it go through heat cycles and rust, many a race car driver will tell you the same thing. Then build it as strong as you can and supercharge it!!! just what i would do.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
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