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I'm having a heck of a time sealing my oilpan. It is a cast aluminum one. NO it is not cracked or poris. I have had it off three times and still can't seal it at the front and back. I've had one piece and conventional gaskkets on it. What am I doing wrong? Thanks ED
 

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I usually toss the stock end seals and use a healthy bead of silicone high temp sealant. As long as everything is clean they never leak after.
 

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YA, I agree with 4 jaw chuck, but be carefull what type of silicone you use. On fuel injected engines i was under the impression that the fumes given off can play havoc with your sensors and the way your engine will run.
 

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I do not even use gaskets on the tin work on my engines. I have had countless problems with them failing so now I use RTV silicone on the oil pan, timing cover, and valve covers. I recently rebuilt a 2.8 chevy v6 that I am prety sure was never apart and it had silicone on all of the tin even the rear cam bearing cover. If you clean everything good first it never leaks and lasts 2 to 3 times longer than traditional gaskets.
 

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it is possible that you have an oil pan that is slightly warped.use a good straight edge to check each sealing edge for high-low spots.
 

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I assume you know that there are two styles of pan and therefore there are two different seals required. One is thicker than the other. Is it possible that you are using the wrong seal? Most rebuild kits come with both seals, but if you order the gasket only, maybe you are ordering the wrong one. They really look very similar from a distance.
 

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OK, this is what I do and have never had a leak, working on numerous engines. I use the permatex non hardening gasket cement along with the stock gaskets. Find out what the torque specs are and start tightening in sequences of 3 starting in the middle of the oil pan and working out to the edges. So if the torque spec says 20 foot pounds. Tighten each bolt 6 ft lbs, then go back and tighten to 12 ft lbs, then go back and tighten to 20 ft lbs. Remember to start in the center of the oil pan and work out to the edges. Start with the center bolt on one side, then go to the center bolt on the other side and work back and forth, to the edges. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok on the silicone. Tell me how long you let it skin up before you install the pan? When your under the cr it can sure make a mess. ED
 

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Well that is a good question. Leting it skin up will allow for eaier removal of the gasket but also alow for leaks later. I typicaly apply the silicone and then mount the cover with the bolts finger tight then I torque them down and remove the excess with a rag. let it stand a few hours untill running the motor. check the excess on the rag when it is cured it is ok to run the motor. I also clean my maiting surfaces well and wipe them off with laquer thinner before applying the silicone. Let the thinner evaporate complertelyfirst. Good luck
 

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oil pan leak problems

I don't know where you get your info, but what's with all the torque to this, and torque to that, and then torque again???? Start in the middle, changing from side to side and torque them all "snug" first (by hand); then go back and tighten-to-specs. 12 pounds sounds about right, but CHECK THE BOOK. You don't need to "torque-your-bolts" 3 TIMES! Snug them all down BY HAND, start in the middle, after "snugging them by hand," USE a torque wrench, (DO NOT "GUESS") and that should be all that's needed. (remember, side-to-side varience) There's no reason to torque the bolts 3 times! DO NOT OVER-TORQUE! If you still have a leak issue, maybe there's something-else that's wrong. FELPRO GASKETS DON"T NEED 'gasket sealer." (some wrenches will "re-torque" after the motor has been run.) But with FELPRO gaskets, that should NOT be necessary.......peace
 

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Maybe the pan is warped. Try this. Put the pan on dry, no gaskets. Put a small turned on flashlight inside first. Hand snug the 4 corners. Easy to see now how the gaps look all around. Pay special attention to how uniform the front and back gaps look.
 

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350 chevy oil pan leaking

I was checking out the cast aluminum oil pans. The info says it is a 4 quart and will fit chevy small block 1955-1979. It uses the 4 pc gasket set with the thin front seal. If in vehicle and working underneath I have used 3M Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive, 5 oz. Tube - Yellow on the gaskets and rubber seals to hold them in place. I use bead of Permatex Ultra Black® RTV in the four corners where the rubber seal meets the cork on top and bottom sides of gaskets. Install the pan with bolts and just snug bolts.
 

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I assume you know that there are two styles of pan and therefore there are two different seals required. One is thicker than the other. Is it possible that you are using the wrong seal? Most rebuild kits come with both seals, but if you order the gasket only, maybe you are ordering the wrong one. They really look very similar from a distance.
This is very true. There are 2 diff styles in the ends of a sbc, some pans take a thicker gasket and others take a thiner gasket. And that sounds like it is exactly where you are leaking from. They are very close but they are different.
 
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