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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been thinking about building my own engine. This will be the first time I have done this. I can get a complete 350 for $150 at the local junk yard. I was told that he has several different ones. ranging from late 70's - 90's. I was wonder which year would be the best to start with. What would be an estimate of machine shop cost if i needed to get engine bored? Any tips on how to do the build would be helpful as well.

Eric
 

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The lean mean donut machine
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Go for the engine from the 90's, it will be equipped with a roller cam rather than a mechanical cam which will help you make more power. Many of the users of this site would be able to help you with your engine combo, but you first need to state your budget and/or your desired power output for the engine. There are infinite ways to build a small block Chevy, we just need to know the general direction for yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
direction

This will go in my camaro replacing the 305 in it. This will be my driver/play car. I want it to be really reliable but i want to be able to go when i put my foot in it. At the moment i have a lil over 1000 to invest in it. I don't plan on doing it all at one time though. This will be a process that i will take my time and do right getting good stuff when i can afford it. i would like to get 300+ horses. The more the better but that is jus a baseline. I hope this helps a lil more.

Eric
 

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you need to first make some plans and decisions as to weather you are going to have a roller cam or flat tappet.if a roller is what you want you need to get a newer block that came from the factory with a roller cam.if its a flat tappet then you want a block with the casting #'s 3970010.it has extra nickel in it for better performance.87 and before are the old style blocks and 87 and up are the new style.you should read many magazine article first and it will help you to figure some things out.stroker or destroke or standard.high reving or low reving.what rpm will the motor spend most of its time or where will the motor live,,,lite-lite or freeway?torque or h.p..there are many things to consider.buy chevy parts interchange manual and and a how to build h.p. book.also a rebuild instruction book for sbc's.talk to some people and figure out a machine shop to use and stop there or call to get a list of prices for machine work.then get your block and tear it aprt carefullyto find any damaged spots.its a long process and takes time to buy all the parts you need and do the machine work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
since this will be a street engine i guess i will be wanting more low end torque. and the weight of the maro also needs the torque. What would someone estimate me being charged for a bore job.
 

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you won't get your torque from a "bore job." in fact, you won't get squat really. The only reason people bore motors is to clean up the walls, and you only do as much as nescessary, so you can rebuild it again, and bore some more the next time.

That said, any RV cam and a stroker crank will make the 350 block into a motor that can peform the way you're describing. Although I think you'd be further ahead with a little bit hotter build, a set of gears and a stall converter. What you're suggesting is a truck motor, not a weekend warrior build.

K
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i know you won't get power from a bore job. Im wanting to bore it cause it is coming from a junk yard and im going to rebuild it. I jus want to do it right. It may not even need a bore job, but i want the walls to be fresh to start my build up.
 

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wind & fire = guides to power
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Well if you can find one choose a Vortec engine.

Bore it ($8 a hole +20 or so to vat and magnaflux)
.030 flat top pistons
Have the machine shop(or you yourself) give a mild port job
Choose the ZZ4 camshaft
also rpm airgap for the vortec heads
2000 stall
373 gears

and you will have a strong and durable 400hp 350ci cheap. It will be border line 12 secs and nearly all factory parts.
 

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The lean mean donut machine
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another thing to consider is a crate engine if you are looking for the most reliable power. GM sells a lineup of 350s from 330 HP to 430 HP, and Edelbrock sells a similar range. You would be surprised at how cheap some of these sell for, depending on the seller. The plus side is that you will not have to chase parts and you will most likely have a substantial warranty to go with it. The downside is you will not get the experience of building your own engine and learning about it.

Be wary of junkyard engines as they are suspect of having cracks in the block or heads - be sure you get it checked out if this is the way you are going.

A bread and butter 350 buildup that is quite common:

650 Holley double pumper
Edelbrock RPM air gap manifold
Comp Cams XE268 hydraulic cam
GM Vortec heads
Flat top hypereutectic pistons
2000 stall and 3.23 gears (3.73 if you have 700R4 overdrive)

This should provide decent low end grunt with the cam, gears, and stall, and still have breathing ability to 6000 RPM.
 

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Come Home Safe Soldier
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Regardless of what you do as far as a motor.If you are getting one from a yard,take a breaker bar with you to crank the motor over with.You may be rebuilding it,but if it has seized,you may end up with more expense than you anticipated.Do not take thier word for it either,rotate it yourself.Check the dipstick also,coolant could mean,simply a blown headgasket,or worse and could be bad heads.If you plan on replacing the heads,still find a good engine with good heads.Sell the old ones to offset some of the rebuild cost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
thanks for all the advice so far. I know I could get a crate engine but that is something i would probably do if the motor in the car was blown or something. I have a lil more time left on this engine and I want to experience building a engine.

NXS
Bore it ($8 a hole +20 or so to vat and magnaflux)
.030 flat top pistons
Have the machine shop(or you yourself) give a mild port job
Choose the ZZ4 camshaft
also rpm airgap for the vortec heads
2000 stall
373 gears

and you will have a strong and durable 400hp 350ci cheap. It will be border line 12 secs and nearly all factory parts.
How much would the ZZ4 camshaft run me and where could i get one. Will all you said do you think a demon carb would be good on top of all that. Im kinda making my parts list at the moment. Tryin to see how deep I will have to dig in my pockets.
 

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on ebay racers outlet you can get a professional products copy of the air gap rpm edelbrock for 130.00 and circle track cam up to about .580 lift for 57.00 and speed pro hypereutectic coated pistons for about 170.00,a 3.750 eagle crank if you want a 383 cast steel good to 500 h.p. for 190.00.if you spend you money wisely you can get good deals.when you bore your cylinders your compression does go up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
how is this combo

625 road demon
vortec heads
performer or performer rpm vortec intake
comp cam XE268
Flat top pistons
Headers

This is my start. What do you think, is there anything anyone think i should add or replace. does anyone know the possible power i may get from this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Would those parts alone really put me at 375? I thought it may put me at bout 350 or so, but if it will put me in that range I have what i want. The compression ratio is a lil higher than I would like but when you are tryin to get power i guess sacrafices are in order so i don't mind it. Is there anything else anyone would recommend me doing to my motor?
 

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Gosh, a lot of gents are suggesting a combo thats well over 1K. Lets face it, even the "cheap" Vortec heads are going to be a grand with the special gaskets, intake, rockers etc. , it will take to run them. My suggestion is to get a bone stock "roller camed" 350 and with a little luck, it won't need new pistons. When I go to the junk yard looking for a motor, I pull a head and "caliper" the bore, looking for ware (I found a very nice 400 this way...for 50 bucks!). Heck, even if the motor needs pistons, they can be bought for a song, on Ebay. Then give the stock heads a bit of a cleanup with a cheap Sears electric die grinder and then take them to the machine shop for the 150 dollar "special" valve job. Next, get a used "LT" roller cam from Ebay (30 bucks) and install a set of cheap SSI rings and Detroit gaskets. Slap on a set of used headers (I got a nice but dirty set for 15 bucks once) and a home rebuilt Q-jet and stock aluminum manifold and enjoy this combo for miles and miles. And best of all, if it's geared with at least a 3.23 rear..it will keep up with traffic and then some..guaranteed!
 
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