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Alright So my engine in my 94 k1500 Is getting pretty tired and soon will be getting replaced but I'm wanting to build a new carbureted engine for it, I'm wanting to buy a 350 bare block and start from scratch to meet 350hp or more within 1700-1800$ can anybody help me out with a list of parts I would need to build it up. I was wanting a nice lopey cam and wanna use pump gas, links would be appreciated. Thanks!
 

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Go buy a brand new 2 bolt 12530282 or 4 bolt 12530283 L31 from Summit or any of the others and stick the Camshaft SP350/357 12677151 roller cam in it.

You'll have a GEN 1E engine that will run for 100's of thousands of miles, provide excellent off idle/low rpm torque for towing. The highest flowing heads ever installed on a OEM GM GEN 1 SBC are included on those engines. No guesswork or questionable build quality with only new parts. Plus you will get away from the 1987-1995 TBI truck flat tappets and come equipped with a roller camshaft equipped engine.
Heck even if you stay with the 191º/196º 0.12"/0.428" 111ºLSA you will still be at the 310-330hp mark with a good exhaust.
Longtube headers and at least 2-1/4" dual exhaust is required. The Hooker 2462-hkr (painted) or Hooker 2462 1hkr(ceramic coated) 2462-2HKR feature sfull stainless steel construction. These are designed for the 1988-95 TBI trucks, but I use them on my 1996-98 Vortec V8 trucks, just have to add some O2 sensor wiring extensions and weld in a sensor bung, the bunng for the TBI trucks is already included in the header, you just have to drill out the bung, they have 1 5/8" primaries x 2-1/2" collectors. The Hooker Super Competition 2806-hkr(painted)2806-1hkr(ceramic coated) is the step up and feature 1-3/4"x3" piping with tuned primary lengths. The SuperComps are about double the price of the Comps. I have run the 2462-1hkr for years, and the one set was daily driven even in the salty Winter roads. Uncoated headers would only last me a single Winter, thn come springtime I needed a new set as some of the primaries would rot out.

Now you have a 1994 GM truck which originally would have been a speed density Throttle Body Injection setup.
If it were my truck, I'd use some sort of a Multi Port Fuel Injection manifold like the Ramjet 350 intake, and use the TPI ECM and fire all 8 injectors in batch fire mode. Much better than the TBI system.

peace
Hog
 

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If your looking for a good engine build and want to be able to make over 350 horsepower and over 400 ftlbs of torque then I have a build that is very similar to what you might want to look for. Get you a bottom half short block made with a summit .030 overbore small chevy block with the one piece rear main seal 4 bolt main with some flat top hypereutectic pistons and use a scat crank cast 3.480 and a set of scat 5.7 capscrew connecting rods.

That is a really good bottom end for that build and would handle over 400 hp quite easy. For cylinder heads I would recommend a set of some of the entry level aluminum heads that out of the box should make some real good power in the range your looking for. The dart shp 180 or 200cc heads would work well or if you want something a little bit cheaper there are some heads from ebay sellers called assault cylinder heads and get them bare and get all the matching parts to put on it with the cam your using. As for cam wise the one piece rear main seal block allows you to run a oem roller type setup and if you get a decent hydraulic roller cam in the low to mid 220's intake and around 230 exhaust duration at .050 and over .500 plus lift and the right combustion chamber you can get a very close to 400 horsepower build or a little bit more depending on a few things.

Doing so at only about 2 thousand won't allow you to have many options for parts wise as even a vortec long block will only make a little bit over 300 horse power and 330 ftlbs of torque and the only bad part on the vortec long block is the lesser then desired dish piston which is not as effective as a D dish style piston. But for about $2500 to $3000 you can get a lot more options and with the added bonus of using a oem roller style setup which will save over $500 compared to a retrofit style setup. Also forgot if you get a vortec long block and swap out just the factory small cam and get a brand new zz4/5 hydraulic roller cam and run at least a 650 cfm to a 750 cfm carb vacuum secondary or a double pumper depending on your vehicle weight and secondary gears you can easily have the high 375 horse power range and still over 400 ftlbs of torque and should be able to still run pump gas pretty easly. The only thing is you would have to have the vortec heads to take different springs to match the cam better and to take higher lift and maybe at lease have the rocker arm studs at least pinned if you don't want to have them machined for screw in ones.
 

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Alright So my engine in my 94 k1500 Is getting pretty tired and soon will be getting replaced but I'm wanting to build a new carbureted engine for it, I'm wanting to buy a 350 bare block and start from scratch to meet 350hp or more within 1700-1800$ can anybody help me out with a list of parts I would need to build it up. I was wanting a nice lopey cam and wanna use pump gas, links would be appreciated. Thanks!

An automatic or manual gear box, the 1994 will have a 4L60E if an automatic. Changing to a carb requires the carb have a Throttle Position Sensor mounted (these are a kit for this) to feed that piece of info to the computer so it will command gear changes.


You engine with TBI injection also gets its timing data from the computer there is no advance system in the distributor. There are two ways to go here either retain the computer distributor which means you also have to keep the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (MAP) to provide the input for vacuum advance. Or you can use a standard distributor but will have to supply a tach signal to the computer to keep the fuel pump running if you don't replace the entire fuel delivery system. Also the current in-tank pump supplies fuel at about 15 psi which is too much for a carb, you need if using this system to install a bypassing regulator to drop the pressure to a 4-6 psi carb friendly pressure. The bypass regulator can use all the existing plumbing that currently supplies the TBI.


Since a fresh engine is pretty hard on an old automatic transmission usually resulting in its failure not to long after the engine is installed; this is a good time to include removal of the 4L60E for a 700R4. This being the hydro/mechanical equivalent of the 4L60E, it allows complete elimination of the computer from the truck.


Bogie
 

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If you can do all the work yourself, you can prolly get to 350+ HP for ~$500 if you're a good parts scrounger and machining deal finder...
As some of the others have alluded to, the boost in POWER comes mainly from better HEADS !!! . You may have Swirl Port heads which are good low RPMs torque heads, but just plain have to be replaced to make much HP... As others mentioned, '96 - 2002 true Vortec truck/van heads are the best flowing Gen. 1 stock heads ever used... flow to about 450 HP stock... even better than early over the parts counter Chevy racing heads... They run from about $400 simply rebuilt to $700 new/rebuilt w/ performance upgrades... Most car stock heads off 327's, 350's and 400's are good to 350 - 390 HP...
Some of the best imported aluminum performance heads $399/pair bare
S.S. valves $69.99/set of 16
Performance valve springs $30/16
Performance pistons $88/16
Piston rings $40/set
Mild performance cam/lifters $103/set (& up)
Gasket set $50 (& up)
That gives your HP...
Then you need intake manifold, 4 bbl. carb. of 650 - 750 CFM size, headers, 2 1/2" - 3" true dual exhaust or 3" or larger single exhaust, 2 1/2" - 4" core performance mufflers (look inside to make sure the pipes don't get tiny inside)
 
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