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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I’ve got a 350 vortec out of a 97 suburban, I’ve got it honed and painted and ready for assembly but I need to figure out what to put in it. Originally thought could probably get away with reusing the crank, then get new rods and pistons that can handle 500-550hp. My plan is to twin turbo it not that I need all the boost from both of them but I’ve seen it’s a lot cleaner and almost easier to do twins because you don’t have to worry about a cross over pipe and it’s all symmetrical. Anyways my question is what do I need to get to this power goal and can I use my stock crank. Also trying to do it wallet friendly.
 

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Hello, I’ve got a 350 vortec out of a 97 suburban,
That is what it came out of, but what is it now?
I’ve got it honed and painted and ready for assembly
What is honed, what is painted, what is ready for assembly?
reusing the crank, then get new rods and pistons that can handle 500-550hp.
No. Buy an entire reciprocating kit that can handle the HP rating you are trying to achieve. Such as a SCAT 383 rotating kit, fully ready to run, balanced from balancer to flex plate.


My plan is to twin turbo
That is an expensive plan


what do I need to get to this power goal
500 to 550 hp at the crank? Or rear wheels? You didn’t say what you are wanting to put this SBC into, therefore we cant really give info. Yes you can turbo a SBC and make your low HP goals with probably 4 to 7 psi. BUT, since you are doing this on the cheap, throw the SBC in the trash and go get a 4.8 from the local junkyard, add a cam and valve springs, add 15psi of boost, and enjoy your 600 rwhp and 20 MPGs, for waaaaay cheaper than your SBC build.
 

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Honed???

I’m guessing you mean the cylinder bores. Honing is an operation that puts a finish and final clearance on the cylinder walls after boring to a standard oversized, not an operation that resizes the cylinder wall. So this leads to the question of what exactly has been done.

Getting into the zone of 500-550 hp requires everything be just right. This range is pretty much at the strength limit of a stock block got the old iron SBC.

With power enhancers like turbo’s or laughing gas usually the first things to fail are the pistons. Here the fit of skirts to wall and rings to their lands is a critical necessity. Pistons need to be forging that have resistance to structural loads both operational and from detonation. The latter is the big killer of pistons, rods and crank. The heat and forces melt the sides out of pistons or just outright busts them. The forces down the rod usually blows the oil out of the clearance quickly followed by the bearing shell welding to the crank journal, then welding to the rod followed by the rod busting. The crank is usually the last to surrender with a fatigue failure in the cheek area, although oil starvation on the mains for a list of reasons can be its demise. The big issue with a cast crank is pounding the rod journals out of round which opens up the oil clearance which then goes down the path previously described.

From what little I can glean from your description it seems too much effort is going into turbos and too little into the basic engine.

Bogie
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry I just dingle berried the bores just to clean them up I have forged 4.00 pistons that arrived yesterday.

it’s going into a 65 c10 with a 12 bolt rear end.

painted as in the block is painted.

500 crank is what I’m looking for.

talk to some guys at the machine shop they told me crank looked good and that they’ve seen them run 450-500 pretty safely if rpms are low. Have stock crank and rods, arp rod bolts mainbolts and head bolts. Throwing in a hydraulic flat tap pit voodoo cam 230/236 I think is what it is with included valve springs lifters and double roller timing chain. As well asa HV oil pump. As well as clevite bearings and moly rings. Talked to a few other car guys in town with similar setups and a lot of them are running stock crank and have been perfectly fine as long as rpms aren’t over 6k. I understand it’s no where near as safe as a full forged internals but man that’s expensive.
Have twins lying around with a few blowoff valves so the rest will be decently cheap for a turbo setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I understand an ls would of been sooooo much better but I got paid $300 to take the suburban so I couldn’t pass that up and yes I could’ve put it towards an ls but they aren’t super easy to find where I’m at unless you want to pay 800+ so since the c10 is getting a frame up resto I decided to save that 500 and just put it towards the block I have. I’m looking into the Holley sniper instead of a blow through carb but man that is a hefty price. Anyone have experience with one or both?
 
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