[johnsongrass1]

Sounds like you covered the basics. Assuming it's mechanical sound, Next, put a timing light on every wire and make sure it's firing on all those. If you have headers you can spit on the primary tubes and note if any are colder than the others. A spray bottle or similar works as well. Your very next step is a leak down test. A compression test is okay at this point, a leak down would be better. The next thing I'd look at is the dist gear roll pin and ensure it didn't shear.

 

[johnsongrass1]

It's unlikely to be a bent valve but instead a bent push rod. Valves tend to be stronger than pushrods.
What I'd do, awhile you wait for parts, I'd pull the valve covers, pull the plugs, put your straight edge across the studs, looking for any too high, do the same across the valve tips, put your DI on the valve retainers and spin the engine by hand looking for a substantial difference in DI readings.
I wouldn't worry about .005ish but something like .030ish is an indicator of something.
Note what you find including the easy to turn spot. Also take a look at the convertor bolts and flex plate bolts for witness marks to looseness or the bolt heads hitting something. Then pull the pushrods and look for any bent ones. Roll them on a table or chuck them up in a drill and it'll be obvious.
Note what you find.
Then [email protected] it all and when the tools arrive, do a leak down. A leak down will tell you everything a compression tester will plus more so no need to do both although a compression tester is somewhat faster to do. Just be mindful a compression test is effected by the battery and starter cranking speeds. It's a comparison check against the other cylinders.
Note any cylinders that aren't like the others. Some small variance is fine, big ones aren't. Once all this is done, you've checked everything mechanical and so you can then look at the ignition first, then the carb.

 

[johnsongrass1]

First filters are always scary.
Your looking for big chunks. Seems fine from over here.

 

[johnsongrass1]

If you have polys no need to wiggle the pushrods. Then use your fingers only and run down the polys till the nut stops and you'll be at zero lash. I'd give the polys another flat and snug down the locks. That'll get you in the .020 preload area.
Also, I always do the lash checks in firing order, turning the crank 90 each time. The other methods for me usually end up me screwing up something and I hate doing things twice.