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350 Uneven Cranking, Won't Stay Running After Break In

1929 Views 32 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  evilWS6
Before I start rambling..
Rebuild specs:

350 4 bolt main bored .030 over
10:1 CR
Stock Cast Crank turned .010
SCAT Forged 5.7" I-beam Rods
Sealed Power Flat Top Pistons w/ 4 valve reliefs
Vortec 906 Iron Heads
.016 Steel Shim Head Gaskets
Jones Cam's Hydraulic Flat Tappet: 110LSA 224/232 @ .050, .501"/.504" with 1.52 rockers
Cloyes Heavy Duty Double Roller Timing Set (set to advanced keyway while degreeing cam)
Melling 10552 HV Oil Pump
Holley 4160 600cfm Vac. Secondary Carb
Edelbrock Performer RPM Vortec Intake
Stock GM HEI Distributor
NGK TR55 Plugs
Factory replacement Taylor wires
High Torque Mini Starter
Rotating assembly was balanced during rebuild

Well fellas, I'm currently stumped. I just recently rebuilt my 350, and broke it in a few days ago.. used PennGrade break in oil. Break in went pretty well.. I set distributor in at 14* before starting it. It started right up, bounced around a little for a few seconds, then smoothed out as I raised the RPM's. I varied the engine speed between 2000-2500 for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, I started to back the engine speed down. I eventually got to the point where I could no longer unscrew my curb idle screw any further. I snapped the throttle a few times, but it didn't come down. I pushed the throttle lever forward a little to make sure it wasn't the cable, when suddenly the idle dropped, I heard a clack, and it shut off. I started it again, heard clacking, and shut it right off. After removing the valve covers, I found that my #3, 5, and 6 intake rockers were loose. They weren't making a single sound until I pushed the throttle blade forward and the car died. I started turning the engine over by hand to readjust these valves.

I turned the engine over by hand while watching the corresponding cylinder's exhaust valve. Once the exhaust valve started to open, I adjusted the intake valve, and gave it 1/2 turn past zero lash. I did this for all 3 that loosened up. Then, like a complete idiot, I forgot to take the breaker bar and socket off of the crank pulley, and blipped the ignition. I heard the breaker bar rotate clockwise, hit my frame rail, and then fall to the ground. I went and double checked that the crank bolt didn't loosen up, shook my head at myself and then started the car up. It was running terribly. The engine was bouncing and running very rough, and it wouldn't stay running unless I held the throttle open. The second I let go, it would die. Now I noticed that while cranking, it was "galloping" rather than a steady crank. You could hear it crank fast, then slow, fast, then slow. Before adjusting the timing, I marked the distributor cap location so I could go back to my starting point. I tried advancing it further - didn't help. Tried retarding it a bit, didn't help. Eventually I got it to where it would at least stay running well enough that I could pull it in the garage. Out of curiosity, I checked where the timing was at this point, and it was somewhere near the 30's at idle with the vacuum advance plugged! I retarded the timing, and it shut off. Lined up with my original reference mark on the distributor cap, it wouldn't stay running again. Before taking a break, I pulled my plugs - they were black, sooty and fouled. Smelled like gas.

Today I went back to the garage and swapped another working carb onto the engine. I installed brand new plugs, and relashed every single valve. I jiggled the pushrod up and down until I felt zero play, and this time, I gave them each 1/4 turn. Rotated the engine until I saw the exhaust valve open, and fully close - right on TDC on my timing tape. Rotated it one more revolution to TDC. Adjusted my distributor to line the #1 terminal up with the rotor, as close as I could get it. Turned the key, it fired up and died. Held the throttle open a little, turned the key again, and it's struggling to start. Keeps firing off but dying. I tried adjusting the timing a little, but once again it didn't help much. Try giving it more throttle, backfires out the carb. It still has that "gallop" present while cranking. I checked my plug wires numerous times, and aside from them currently being a little messy and strung about, they are in the right positions. Verified that I have 12.4 volts at the ignition wire at the distributor, and 10.4 volts while cranking. I removed the distributor cap, and it was spotless inside. No signs of arcing. I couldn't find any noticeable rips or tears in my wires either. I cranked it again with the ignition disabled, and it sounded exactly the same.

I am completely stumped at this point. I keep asking myself if I wiped the cam, but it made it entirely through break in with zero issues, and no valve noise until the RPM's dropped and it died out. I was hoping my initial valve adjustment wasn't consistent, and maybe those few were just a little loose. But why didn't they make any noise until the engine died out when I closed the carb? The other thing I'm wondering is.. when I hit the ingition with the breaker bar still on the crank bolt, did it hit the frame and jump timing? The bolt didn't loosen, so either it fell right off, or something else had to give. I double checked my timing chain slack, and it only moves 2 degrees before turning the rotor if I turn it counter clockwise.

At this point, the only things I haven't really checked are my ignition coil, ignition module, and my timing set. I've also yet to drain the oil to check for metal particles. Either way, it sounds like the valve event timing and ignition timing is not occurring when it should, or something happened with my compression. I'm not sure, this is my 3rd engine rebuild and I am stumped and defeated at this point. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and if you read ALL of that, thank you - lol!

Here are 2 videos. The first shows what it currently sounds like while cranking, and the second is after 20 minutes of break in when I started to back the idle down. You can hear that it's running nice and smooth during this time.



Cam card:



Any guidance is much appreciated. Thank you
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
One thing at a time, I always say... forget the carb... that 3,6,5 thing is what to dig into. Nothing to do with carb. Filter looks good. First runs will always throw some shavings/debris..
Agreed!

First filters are always scary.
Your looking for big chunks. Seems fine from over here.
Tell me about it. Last year when I wiped the Lunati cam in this same setup, I cut open that filter and it was nearly black. I had to go back through my pictures to remind myself how bad it was in comparison.

I just went back to the filter and pulled each of the folds back, running my finger and a magnet through each one. I did find some particulate here and there, but not much.

Ready to breathe a sigh of relief but I know better than to do it yet LOL. Just wanted to say thank you to you guys for being with me thus far, you're all appreciated. I'll either get back out there tonight or tomorrow when the testers arrive, and I'll report back.
 

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They are completely stock Vortec heads with comp cams 787-16 retainers (supposed to provide ample valve guide to retainer clearance) and LS6 beehive springs. Still has press in studs. Matter of fact, I should lay a straight edge across the top of them and make sure they didn't start to come out. I was told they'd be fine, but.. who knows. As I said above, I checked piston to valve clearance while the engine was on the stand, using lightweight checking springs and a dial indicator. Got each valve to max lift, zeroed the indicator and pressed the valve down until it hit the piston. I don't have the number on hand but I remember it being plenty. Yes, matching hardened oil pump driveshaft. What carb do you recommend for this setup?

Checking for bent pushrods is easy enough, as well as marks on the pistons.. would just need an inspection camera. Bent rods and valves on the other hand, not as easy I would guess. Would have to take them out, correct?
A question is whether you measured the clearance from the bottom of the retainers to the top of the valve guide with the oil seal on?

This is a place where you can’t assume that an assemblage of parts actually provides the necessary clearance regardless of advertising or “common knowledge“. There needs to be at minimum .050 inch between the bottom of the retainer and the top of the oil seal. This should be checked on each and every valve.

Another question is what was the damage to the original cam? Trying to see if there is a common thread.

Bogie
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
A question is whether you measured the clearance from the bottom of the retainers to the top of the valve guide with the oil seal on?

This is a place where you can’t assume that an assemblage of parts actually provides the necessary clearance regardless of advertising or “common knowledge“. There needs to be at minimum .050 inch between the bottom of the retainer and the top of the oil seal. This should be checked on each and every valve.

Another question is what was the damage to the original cam? Trying to see if there is a common thread.

Bogie
I actually did not measure valve guide/seal to retainer clearance. My engine book didn't really mention how to do it. Can it be done with the final springs installed or does it have to be done with checking springs? I'm actually having trouble finding a guide online too.

As far as the valvetrain goes:

My rocker geometry was good. I observed the roller tip contact on the valve tip and it was centered. I measured piston to valve clearance while rotating the engine a few degrees at a time until I found the minimum clearance. I still need to grab the paper and see what it was, but it was enough if I remember correctly. Since they were junkyard heads, I had the valves cleaned up and cut, and then I lapped them all by hand.

I did not measure the retainer to valve stem/seal clearance as I mentioned above. I also didn't measure installed height or seat pressure (don't have the tool). I didnd't measure anything else, I don't think. Now that it's the second time around on this engine, I have more tools.. I should have checked them.

As for the last cam... After break in, one of my lifters was clacking. I relashed the valves, ran the car, and it would come back. Eventually I tried lashing the valves with the car running, and someone pointed out that there was barely any oil pumping out of the pushrods, even with pressure at 60 psi. This was my first time doing it so I wasn't sure how much there should be. But, I basically had it running without really getting oil anywhere. I kept lashing the valves and they kept loosening up. Eventually, while under heavy acceleration, it started backfiring out through the carb and running rough. I eventually drained the oil and cut the filter open, and it was full of metal. Metal was all over my magnetic drain plug too. I pulled the intake, and the lifters, and they looked pretty rough. It also didn't help that they were offshore lifters that came with the Lunati kit during the pandemic. However, after disassembly, I'm pretty sure I realized what it was. I drilled a small hole into the front of the two outer block plugs (for the lifter gallerys) because that's how my setup was before, and it was recommended by several sources. However, I didn't have the proper size drill bit and I think I used one that was too big. Not realizing at the time that these plugs were for the gallery, I think I drastically reduced the oil flow to the lifters, causing them to fail.

After that, I tore the engine down, cleaned out every passage of metal particles, installed all new bearings, rings, etc. I put new block plugs in and drilled them with the recommended #68 (.031") drill bit on both the left and right plugs. I had my valve cover off while cranking the engine over the other day and oil shot out to the fender.. so I assume that was resolved!

Anyway, that's how I lost that cam and why I tore the engine down again. The lack of measurements I took on my valvetrain are pretty much due to negligence and lack of experience in that area.. I should've done more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Well I'll be damned! I was thinking about something someone else said, so I went out and loosened each rocker 1/4 turn. Cranked it for a few seconds, and no more gallop. I guess one or more valves were indeed hanging open. I loosened them all up to make sure they aren't pumped up, and when I go back out I'm going to try a different method of lashing them. If that doesn't work, I'm gonna try and tighten the poly locks down near zero lash and see what that does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
SHE'S ALIVE!

I did the Ellison valve adjustment method (guy on YouTube who runs a machine shop) It was pretty simple to do, don't have to keep track of your positioning and whatnot. Once they were all at zero lash, I gave it 3/4 turn like he recommended.

NOPE! Too much. I'd say it was worse than before! So I backed them each up 3/4 turn and got them back to roughly zero lash. Pumped the gas a couple times, hit the ignition, and she started right up. They're definitely still on the loose side, as they are noisy. It's interesting - I gave them 1/2 turn on the engine stand (with no oil in lifters) and that was good for break in, minus the few that got loose on me. Then I did 1/4 turn, and that was still hanging a valve open. The Ellison method above with 3/4 turn was obviously too much, and zero lash is of course too little. 1/8 turn maybe?! Weird.

I think my best bet might be to cut up one of these old vortec valve covers and just adjust them while it's running. Either that or I'll have to keep trying different amounts of preload and see what it does.

I'm pretty sure I found the reason for it idling high as well. I sprayed some carb cleaner around my carb gasket, and the idle dropped. I reused the gasket, which I've had success with before, but I guess it's time for a new one.

Next up is getting the valves adjusted right so I can at least move the car and run it without worrying. Then I can dial in the timing and see if I can get the double pumper running happily. Then I'll take it for a quick drive to make sure the rings seal up, then change out the break in oil. After that I'll have to start thinking about the heads. All the comments about the lift has me a bit worried.. I definitely beat the piss out of this car.

Just wanted to again thank everyone for thinking this one out with me. I appreciate you guys a bunch.
 

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Often you have to mess around with high performance lifters of the fast recovery type to find where they like to run. Add to this they like to tick on high intensity lobe cams as the lobe on the back side comes off the peak lift fast enough to let a gap form at low RPM and these fast leak down lifters don’t react quickly enough to keep things at zero lash, quiet is not a design goal, fast recover from or prevention of chasing over rev gaps in the valve train is the design goal and often some ticking of the valve train is the result.

These type lifters like to be run with the plunger pretty deep in the lifter. The school of thought with these includes consideration that there is air entrained with the lube oil such that a large amount of oil in the adjusting chamber under the plunger allows the plunger to sink a bit thus reducing duration and lift at the valve. The extreme setting is to run the plunger right down or very nearly so to where it is about if not seated on the bottom limit of its travel. This will get into needing to fudge around with push rod lengths and of course longer push rod can have more buckle under loads with drives a sturdier and usually heavier push rod or some lightweight exotic and expensive material. But short of exotic NASA materials you’re now into sturdier components in the valve train, so you just get into this chain of events where you're throwing money into a bottomless pit.

For myself on the street I prefer to run a pretty much stock type lifter where I run the plunger just slightly off the retainer. Here the retainer needs to be a Circlip installed sharp edge up and not the stock bent wire bail as you have to insure that internal pressure will not blow the plunger out if you float the valve train. Here there essentially is no pump up as there is nowhere for the plunger to go up. This does allow a lot of oil in the lash chamber under the plunger so I have to accept that some reduction in duration and lift is possible as entrained air with the oil is compressed. The trade is a quieter valve train and no pump up recovery time as pump up can’t happen.

My standard for all builds is to set to go around the firing order adjusting intake and exhaust on each cylinder, helps to have a damper with 90 degree marks inscribed. This using the usual feel the push rod method just to get the engine started. Once running on the cam break-in cycle and the engine is up to temp then I go around and set the running preload to what ever I want that to be. Where the plunger is being sunk deep in its bore this can be a slow process as time has to be given even for fast leak-down lifters to settle into the preload your cranking in to them.

Hydraulics are not really setting a lash like a solid lifter, what’s going on is the plunger has a range of travel. At any reasonable point in the range of travel when the plunger encounters an opposing force which in this case is the valve spring it simply stops moving upward and will hold that position indefinitely unless a gap appears in the valve train. When a gap occurs in the valve train, you can use overreving the valve spring to where it looses control of the valve such that a gap or lash opens up then the plunger moves to return itself to a position against the spring load. When this happens the valve train is now adjusted too long where valves are not able to close so the engine falls on its face till the affected lifter’s plunger can return to its initial setting. So the time for this is controlled by that lifter‘s oil leakage rate from the bottom adjusting chamber. For a high performance lifter this can happen nearly instantly for a stock lifter intended to keep the valve train quiet recovery from these over speed events isn't very fast because the designers aren’t taking fast over-rev recovery as a design requirement for mom’s Monte Carlo.

As for top end lube this varies widely by lifter in that racing lifters are designed with the expectation that the rockers are rollers and little oil is needed plus that valve spring cooling will be handled from a direct pressure oil application built into the rocker cover or a seperate spray bar. Most hydraulics use some form of a metering valve as part of the pushrod cup. Depending on what the valve train is for example ball and socket or roller trunnion and how the valve springs are oiled and whether this engine will see if not hold a lot of RPM (the valve springs generate a lot of heat in use by their continuous compression and release cycling, oil is there cooling medium) so I will modify lifter bleed oiling as I see necessary to the end use and the equipment under the valve cover.

Bogie
 

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If you have polys no need to wiggle the pushrods. Then use your fingers only and run down the polys till the nut stops and you'll be at zero lash. I'd give the polys another flat and snug down the locks. That'll get you in the .020 preload area.
Also, I always do the lash checks in firing order, turning the crank 90 each time. The other methods for me usually end up me screwing up something and I hate doing things twice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
Often you have to mess around with high performance lifters of the fast recovery type to find where they like to run. Add to this they like to tick on high intensity lobe cams as the lobe on the back side comes off the peak lift fast enough to let a gap form at low RPM and these fast leak down lifters don’t react quickly enough to keep things at zero lash, quiet is not a design goal, fast recover from or prevention of chasing over rev gaps in the valve train is the design goal and often some ticking of the valve train is the result.

These type lifters like to be run with the plunger pretty deep in the lifter. The school of thought with these includes consideration that there is air entrained with the lube oil such that a large amount of oil in the adjusting chamber under the plunger allows the plunger to sink a bit thus reducing duration and lift at the valve. The extreme setting is to run the plunger right down or very nearly so to where it is about if not seated on the bottom limit of its travel. This will get into needing to fudge around with push rod lengths and of course longer push rod can have more buckle under loads with drives a sturdier and usually heavier push rod or some lightweight exotic and expensive material. But short of exotic NASA materials you’re now into sturdier components in the valve train, so you just get into this chain of events where you're throwing money into a bottomless pit.

For myself on the street I prefer to run a pretty much stock type lifter where I run the plunger just slightly off the retainer. Here the retainer needs to be a Circlip installed sharp edge up and not the stock bent wire bail as you have to insure that internal pressure will not blow the plunger out if you float the valve train. Here there essentially is no pump up as there is nowhere for the plunger to go up. This does allow a lot of oil in the lash chamber under the plunger so I have to accept that some reduction in duration and lift is possible as entrained air with the oil is compressed. The trade is a quieter valve train and no pump up recovery time as pump up can’t happen.

My standard for all builds is to set to go around the firing order adjusting intake and exhaust on each cylinder, helps to have a damper with 90 degree marks inscribed. This using the usual feel the push rod method just to get the engine started. Once running on the cam break-in cycle and the engine is up to temp then I go around and set the running preload to what ever I want that to be. Where the plunger is being sunk deep in its bore this can be a slow process as time has to be given even for fast leak-down lifters to settle into the preload your cranking in to them.

Hydraulics are not really setting a lash like a solid lifter, what’s going on is the plunger has a range of travel. At any reasonable point in the range of travel when the plunger encounters an opposing force which in this case is the valve spring it simply stops moving upward and will hold that position indefinitely unless a gap appears in the valve train. When a gap occurs in the valve train, you can use overreving the valve spring to where it looses control of the valve such that a gap or lash opens up then the plunger moves to return itself to a position against the spring load. When this happens the valve train is now adjusted too long where valves are not able to close so the engine falls on its face till the affected lifter’s plunger can return to its initial setting. So the time for this is controlled by that lifter‘s oil leakage rate from the bottom adjusting chamber. For a high performance lifter this can happen nearly instantly for a stock lifter intended to keep the valve train quiet recovery from these over speed events isn't very fast because the designers aren’t taking fast over-rev recovery as a design requirement for mom’s Monte Carlo.

As for top end lube this varies widely by lifter in that racing lifters are designed with the expectation that the rockers are rollers and little oil is needed plus that valve spring cooling will be handled from a direct pressure oil application built into the rocker cover or a seperate spray bar. Most hydraulics use some form of a metering valve as part of the pushrod cup. Depending on what the valve train is for example ball and socket or roller trunnion and how the valve springs are oiled and whether this engine will see if not hold a lot of RPM (the valve springs generate a lot of heat in use by their continuous compression and release cycling, oil is there cooling medium) so I will modify lifter bleed oiling as I see necessary to the end use and the equipment under the valve cover.

Bogie
Bogie, you need to write a book. If I knew someone like you I wouldn’t stop walking into your shop. Thank you for the info.

Do you think it’s possible that the lifters are pumped up nearly solid now, compared to during assembly when they were dry? Shouldn’t they bleed down overnight? I tried pushing the pushrod side of the rocker tip down to see if I could feel the lifter cup depress, but there was no squish. That was after sitting overnight.

I’m pretty sure these are Johnson lifters. Aren’t those pretty standard for flat tappets?

If you have polys no need to wiggle the pushrods. Then use your fingers only and run down the polys till the nut stops and you'll be at zero lash. I'd give the polys another flat and snug down the locks. That'll get you in the .020 preload area.
Also, I always do the lash checks in firing order, turning the crank 90 each time. The other methods for me usually end up me screwing up something and I hate doing things twice.
You know, I noticed that each time I was around zero lash, the poly lock nut encountered resistance as well. Interesting.

Question: with the poly locks, should I tighten the center lock AFTER I do my final turn (one flat, 1/3 turn, whatever) or do I want to tighten the locks first, then do my final turn so the locks put more pressure on the valve stem? I read somewhere this is how they stay locked.

EDIT: You know.. I've been thinking. Remember how I mentioned that while bringing the idle down after break in, I tried lowering the engine speed, it shut off, and then #3, 5, and 6 intake valves were loose? What if one or more of those lifters collapsed? Wouldn't that basically make it become solid? If I put a straight edge across the top of the poly lock nuts, the top of the nut on an adjusted valve with a collapsed lifter would sit noticeably lower from having to tighten it further to make up for the clearance created by a collapsed lifter, wouldn't it?
 

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The first thing with poly-locks is the top of the rocker stud needs to be flat. Unless you’re using genuine ARP rocker studs it’s unlikely the top of the stud is machined flat and normal (90degrees) to length of the stud. So if your using another brand it’s likely you need to gently kiss this surface to remove the end distortion the thread rolling process does to the top end of the stud.

The preferred process for locking the poly-lock is to set the preload position with the Allen screw backed off so it’s out of the way of using the body to set the pre load. Once done setting that position the body of the poly- lock is backed off about 1/16 of a turn (like that’s so effing easy to see) then the Allen screw brought down to contact the top surface of the stud then held to prevent the Allen screw from turning independently the poly-lock body is torqued to spec.

If you installed the lifters dry most often using either the spin or rattle the push rod method to locate the initial point of no movement then apply the recommended additional turn to set the plunger in its travel. At this point when you first crank the engine the plunger will be depressed till its bottom rests on the internal ring plunger stop of the main body. This stop is to prevent crush damage to the check valve assembly riding on the bottom of the plunger. The ring stop keeps the plunger high enough that the valve will be unseated somewhere in its lift curve sufficiently that the engine will fire. Then as oil pressure builds to feed the lifter’s reservoir that will through the check valve feed the bottom chamber under the plunger till the plunger fills any distance between where it started from to the zero lash position you set. It may take a few engine revolutions for all of this to settle down to the preset zero point.

If you pumped up the lifters before installing them if you go too fast and I can’t specify how fast is too fast but the oil trapped under the plunger may need more time to bleed than is given so if you pass over this too quickly the adjustment might be off.

Another and ugly possibility is infant lobe and or lifter failure at the rubbing interface between them. But this is pretty uncommon with Jones’ parts but poopoo happens.

Bogie
 

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Well, if your pushrod length isn't just right, it can bend em up and when it gets in a bind, this is quite common even with pushrod length checking because working with heads it happens even when your sorting it out, Unless you get it exactly right the first time, well something could be making it off, like piston to valve, or a bind at the rocker, and rocker installed height with the pushrods. This can also push studs up, and i say if your cam is over .450" beehive spring or not you are going to wiggle and pry those up eventually, maybe all to the same height, some people think thats 'fine' but it isn't. May want to take the intake manifold off, check it's seal if it has blown out the front or rear over the china wall, You should use a bead of intake seal there front and back, don't use the rubber gaskets on those areas. Just the sides with a small bead of seal around everything. And don't warp the intake by unloading it all on one side. Use the pattern on and off. Well maybe i am thinking too hard on this, i mean you have built three engines already. i would try and get rest from this every friday night to saturday night if you know what i mean. Let the bad pass us over.This shall give you a lot of strength the rest of the time. You'll feel recharged to work on it sunday i am sure. We are all wishing you some great luck with this car, i love seeing a great project like this coming together. Thanks for the video also. Maybe we can get more video and pictures just to take our minds off the hard part and come back to it with a new fresh look and maybe find something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Just wanted to report back - the car is running well and I took it for a drive last night, and she rips!

I did a compression test, followed by a leakdown test. Compressions was 150-160 on all cylinders, except 3 & 5 which weren't building compression. I put the leakdown tester on, and saw that it was basically all leaking through the intake valve and out the carb. I backed the polylocks off about 1/4 turn and was able to hear and see the valve and cylinder seal. Backed it off a little, tightened the lock nut, and snugged it down.

Started her up and she was pretty quiet. Cranked perfectly, and fired right off. I definitely think there's still something going on with those two lifters or something.. I highly doubt after ALL the times I adjusted the valves, I just so happened to hang those two valves open each time. I'm still wondering if the lifters are stuck solid. I'm curious if they will unstick or if anything will change after it's been running/driven a bit. I guess I'll find out when I go to readjust the valves yet again after some shakedown runs. Guess we'll see, I need to get working on the 403, I'm already behind schedule on that one. You guys will be seeing some posts about that one, I'm sure.

Thank you again to everyone that chimed in and helped out. This experience left me with additional knowledge and a further understanding of the valvetrain, and how to use some new (very useful!) diagnostic tools. Cheers and Happy New Years!
 
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