[jarrettandroski]

i got a 1981 trans am with a 355 afr 195 eliminator heads a crane energizer 286 cam with correct crane valve springs, 1.6 roller rockers, rpm intake, holley 770, hedman 1 3/4 headers, 3500 stall and 4.11 posi rear end my car will rev up fine in nuetral or park but when in gear it will only pull to 4500 and it will pop/misfire a little and seems like theres a rev limiter at 4500, my timing is set at 15 degrees at idle and 37 at 3000 rpm, i have a stock replacement accel distributor maybe it doesnt have enough power to make spark up there??

 

[cobalt327]

A common problem is less than full battery current going to the HEI, so I would verify that first.

If you didn't say the advance was what it is, I'd say it was retarded. Make sure the timing is what you think it is- the timing tabs are notorious for being wrong. There are at least three different damper marks, and several more different timing chain covers/tabs- they have to match, or what you think is the timing, isn't.

You can make a TIMING TAPE and see exactly what you have going on- providing your timing light is accurate!

You could have a bad valve spring, as well. Or not enough fuel pressure or volume, or...

 

[DoubleVision]

What Cobalt said. Also check the power of the spark, if it`s yellow it`s weak. Make sure you got good fuel pressure, no vacuum leaks, no timing problems. If all checks out okay, the cam is likely gone.

 

[bondo]

Ayuh,... Change the fuel filters,... She's goin' Lean on you...

 

[jarrettandroski]

if the cam was going would it still rev up in neutral way past 4500?? ill double check all that stuff and try to find out if my timing tab is right? it seems to get worse with the higher the gear im in, the plugs look good, i took the fuel filter off on the carb is there another on the car??? how do i check to see if theres full voltage going to the distributer

 

[jarrettandroski]

i did the paper clip test on the secondaries just to see and they only open about half way? could that be a problem?

also the engine ground on the pass side of the firewall isnt hooked up could that be effecting the spark or something???

 

[eloc431962]

if the cam was going would it still rev up in neutral way past 4500?? ill double check all that stuff and try to find out if my timing tab is right? it seems to get worse with the higher the gear im in, the plugs look good, i took the fuel filter off on the carb is there another on the car??? how do i check to see if theres full voltage going to the distributer

You need to check just in front of the driver side rear wheel along the frame there should be a filter there. Cole

 

[jarrettandroski]

no filter there i checked everywhere for one and there just isnt one

 

[eloc431962]

Hummmm, You traced the line comming from the fuel tank and no filter. I thought they had one there in those years, Maybe someone else will chime in and help out. Cole

 

[cobalt327]

FWIW- I had an '81 Camaro, it only had the filter at the carb inlet when it was original, IIRC.

 

[eloc431962]

FWIW- I had an '81 Camaro, it only had the filter at the carb inlet when it was original, IIRC.

Yea i wasn't 100% on the year they did the frame mount type. Thanks for clarifying that cobalt. Cole

 

[jarrettandroski]

my plug gaps look a little big though i never tested them and i hear that with higher compression you need tighter gaps front stock configuration, i have 10.5 to 1 compression i will test the gaps and see what they are tomorow maybe that will help

 

[OLNOLAN]

What Fuel Pump R U Usin?

Symptons sound identical to an issue I had with a 340 mopar. Stock type fuel pump was workin fine and was new. Did a major hop up on engine, new cam,intake,carb,head work etc. Then the original fuel pump wasn't adequate for the newfound HP. Replaced with high volume mechanical Holley pump,problem solved. When goes to poppin under load, shut it down,let it cool a bit,pull a couple of spark plugs at random. If they are white,light tan w/speckles,or electrodes look burnt, its probably fuel related. Did have an issue once on a late model LT1,with similar symptoms,turned out to be a corroded coil wire connection at the coil end. Try reading the plugs. Hope this helps.olnolan
OH,hook that ground back up,might be the whole problem.

 

[jarrettandroski]

the plugs do look a tad on the lean side they are kinda white so im thinking that may be it the fuel pump, it just has a stock 305 fuel pump from 1981 so i think its rated at something like 40-45 gph

 

[OLNOLAN]

Put A Real Fuel Pump On It

That pump ain't gonna do it IMHO, get a high performance high volume mechanical pump and give it a try. olnolan

 

[jarrettandroski]

yea i will buy a jegs or holley 110 gph unit and report back when i get it and put it in http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-EDL21/ that one looks good and pressure is at 6, is it bad to have more pressure? i hear you should only have about 6

 

[OLNOLAN]

Fuel Pump

That one should do the trick. The 6psi is all you need. Anything higher would cause problems. If it doesn't cure your problem, at least you'll know your fuel volume is not the problem. I've got a real good feeling this is gonna lick it. Sounds like its gonna be a real strong engine w/the AFR heads. Make sure to let everybody know how it does.olnolan :thumbup:

 

[jarrettandroski]

ok im ordering it today it should be here tuesday, yea the engine right now sounds awesome and i cant get traction in any gear with my sx7000 tires till it runs out of steam around 4500 hah it starts and runs and idles perfect too, i just finished all the body work and its painted the 2nd car i ever did now im just trying to get all the bugs out, heres a pic of me and the car
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...ndID=6502966&albumID=2721467&imageID=68305217

 

[jarrettandroski]

i got my pump and i need a adapter to make it bottom feed which i ordered, but how do i get the fuel pump pushrod to go up to install the fuel pump back in??? right now it seems locked in the all the way down spot

 

[DoubleVision]

Rotate the engine by hand to get the cam lobe to go back in it`s closed position. You can use grease or you can install a longer bolt in the front of the block and tighten it down to hold the push rod in place, just remember to replace the bolt with the shorty bolt already there. Also make sure you pack the spring cavity of the fuel pump with break in lube, oil, or a light coat of grease. If left dry the spring can overheat and cause pump failure.