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Discussion Starter #1
Good Morning. I am thinking of mounting the 36 Ford cab and front end I recently aquired, on a newer model Ford ranger P/U. I think the 36 is the nicest Pickup ever designed but want a nice riding dependible daily driver. I considered resurecting the origional frame but really would rather use a newer running gear. Has someone who has heard or seen this attempted please write. Fasteddy.
 

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Fasteddy said:
Good Morning. I am thinking of mounting the 36 Ford cab and front end I recently aquired, on a newer model Ford ranger P/U. I think the 36 is the nicest Pickup ever designed but want a nice riding dependible daily driver. I considered resurecting the origional frame but really would rather use a newer running gear. Has someone who has heard or seen this attempted please write. Fasteddy.
Mounting that body on the Ranger frame would more than likely result in disapointment and a lot of frustration for you.

Use the original frame and upgrade the suspension.

Trees is a member here and has a superb '36 Ford pickup. Contact him for details. Do a search on this site for photos of his truck.

 

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Fasteddy,

The Frame on the '36 Pickup is the same as the '35-'40 Car Frames, and they generally hold up pretty well (compared to the older versions)-I, too, vote for using your original Frame (if it's still i useable condition)-there are lots of pieces to fit your Frame out there, and I think that Chassis Engineering probably has the least expensive option-
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys,, But Has anyone tried this swap? I just finished a 64 Ranchero with the Heidt Mustang II. I am not impressed. My car handles poorly. I Have a lot of frame repair on my 36 . Rust . Although it is complete front to banjo rear. Thanks Fasteddy
 

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Fasteddy,

Where in Colorado are you? If you don't get the response you wanted on this, I may know where there is a good Frame (depending on where you live)-
 

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Kruzin Karl
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There was a company, I think it was called Thoroughbred, or something like that, which was mounting fiberglass Ford pickup bodies onto Ranger frames. Not sure if there body was the same as an original or not, and I seem to remember that the company had a really bad reputation.
Anyway, they used the older Ranger frame, which had the twin I-beam suspension. That suspension was sturdy, and dependable, but not really what you'd want under your truck for handling and ride.
There are much better options that will give you better ride and handling. 35-40 frames are easily found for under $300.00. Most people just upgrade to the Mustang II type suspension. You are the first I've ever heard that had a bad experience with a Heidts Mustang II suspension, are you sure it was installed correctly?
Well, no matter what you do, I wish you luck. I'm just starting on my 35 pickup myself.
Later - Karl.
 

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Fasteddy,

If you don't have any luck with your idea, let me know-I do believe I might be able to help you with a original Frame (about 300 Miles away), but I do go through Junction a lot, so I might be able to help get it to you-
 

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Dont re-invent the wheel. The frames worked great from the factory, why wouldnt they work great for you? Get a different frame from any 36-40 Ford. Hit up ebay, your local classfieds, wherever you can find one. Just get the bare frame. Then you can mount everything from your old frame on the new one. I would suggest getting a better rear-end (10-bolt GM's or 9 inch Fords work great) if your upgrading engine. You can get front-end rebuild kits that'll make your car handle like fresh of the assembly line (back in '36 haha).
The ranger frarme, it might work it might not. What I can tell you for sure, everybody will notice that its sitting on a different frame. Either the wheels will stick out too much or not enough, or they wont be centered in the fenderwells etc. It HARD, very hard to make a frame swap look nice...


Mike
 

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there is a company that sells 1936 Ford P/U Fiberglass bodies that fit on ranger frames, but I do not know if there dimensions were " Adjusted " from original to fit the Ranger frame. the factory frame will be fine.
 

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Start those projects someday
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The company that was building the 35-36 glass body was on a ranger frame. The back of the cab was notched on both sides for the Ranger frame because the frame sits higher in that area. You can put a 35 on the Ranger frame and do the same notch in the back of the cab. but you still have to make mounts for all the rest of the body parts. Either way, its a lot of work.

That company was out of Florida and used to advertise on street Rodder about 10 years ago.

Car frames (35-40) are the same except for 4 body mounts welded on the outside. Pickup frames (35-41) were the same as car frames but without the body mounts. The pickup cab is mounted on the frame through a piece of wood shaped to match the curve of the frame and the straight body floor.

I have 35 truck thats been waiting its turn for 21 years. Just got 2 many toys ahead of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks guys for the input. This type of dialog really helps. Unlike in the days of my youth I try to really plan these things out. Fasteddy
 

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The Ford Ranger frame is best suited to the Bonus Builts (48-52 Ford pick-up). There is a 1" to 1 1/2" difference in the position of the front wheels. I believe the fiberglass body was made to compensate for this. I looked at the ranger frame when I was ready to do the swap on my 52 Ford pick-up. After seeing that the frame was unique to itself, and no other Ford parts will bolt up to it, I walked away from it. I later opted for an S-10 swap. No, the S-10 won't be a good swap for a 35 either. Look for a good 35-40 car or truck frame, and go from there. If you want IFS, power steering, and power disc brakes then you'll have to spend some money on an IFS system from a manufacturer or cheap out and get one from a donor car. There are a couple of dozen magazines out there that cater to the 30's pick-ups. If you still want to do a frame swap then check out my website and you can see how much work is involved.

www.geocities.com/lakota_circle_dancer/swap1
 

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enough money can do anything

I have seen some wild combos. 55 chevy on a 76 olds chassis,67 elcamino on a 74 blazer chassis with 44in super swampers and 500cuin caddilac engine,34 chevy sedan on chevelle chassis, and finally a 65 vw lengthened and widened and put on a cj5 jeep chassis. All these done by an old hippie body man down in mobile alabama. He has lots of time and many many years of experience 35plus. You would probably be better off upgrading the suspension. Fatman Fabrications could probably suggest the easiest upgrades for your application. Good luck. Brian
 

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I recommend lakota's web site (see link in his post above) for anybody anticipating a frame swap like this. Good job on providing lots of detail and measurements. Hope to see the rest of the pictures and text soon.
 

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What was the problem with the MII from in the 64 Ranchero? The only thing I can think of is it's not much of an improvement. the suspension design isn't that much different from the original Ranchero design except for the spring placement. The high spring on the original design is very roll resistant -- much more than the MII. You'll need a stout roll bar with the MII suspension whereas the original really didn't need one for normal driving. The real benefits of the MII design over the original is the MII has built in anti-dive (shouldn't nose down as much as the original) and parts availability. Parts aren't real hard to get for the 64 Ranchero suspension though.

The MII is about as much of a "universal" suspension as you can find, but it's not a big improvement over everything. It's great for cars without an good independent suspension or one that's hard to find parts for. Anything else you're compromising the orignal engineering that went into the car.

In this case (64 Ranchero), I don't think there are any real advantages to the MII design at all, unless you need to get rid of the spring towers or you're building something that you need to change parts around a lot on. Maybe a road racer that you'll be setting up for different tracks and need to change or adjust the srpings. If you just want to improve ride and handling, 10-20% stiffer progressive rate springs to replace the originals makes a world of diference. Coil Spring specialties will wind the coils to your specs for the same price as stock replacements, just takes 2-3 weeks lead time.
 

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cboy, Thanks for the kind words. I'll get more done with pictures when I can. Right now I'm taking more training with the fire dept. Three days and two nights of class room plus a twelve hour shift on the weekend.
I still haven't changed out the rearend, extended and welded the steering shaft, or even bought rims and tires yet. I'm in the middle of helping my wife change out an engine in her 70 Ford pick-up.
 

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i have an assembly manual for the thorobread conversion. if there is something you need let me know. i saw them in person and wwas impressed. had the idea of using one as a delivery truck for my plumbing company but it didn't work out
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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I don't get the whole frame swap thing. The early frame is a simple piece of beauty, the late frames are ugly as a boil on my ars, I don't get it.

The time it takes to modify the frame, floor, motor mounts.........on and on and on, you could update the stock frame and be driving it with a smile on your face.

I don't get it, just don't get it.

Brian
 
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