[Mudless]

I'm going to be installing an IFS in my 37 Master withe coil overs and PS. What is the best unit to use? Looking at all that are for sael the prices run the gamut. What am I getting or not with all the price differences as a complete kit including a crossmember. Anyone used a bolt in? Any good?

Also wondering about the rear. Leaf spring or 4 link. It will be a driver not a drag car. Any benefits in handling?
Thanks!

 

[zooma]

I'm going to be installing an IFS in my 37 Master withe coil overs and PS. What is the best unit to use? Looking at all that are for sael the prices run the gamut. What am I getting or not with all the price differences as a complete kit including a crossmember. Anyone used a bolt in? Any good?

Also wondering about the rear. Leaf spring or 4 link. It will be a driver not a drag car. Any benefits in handling?
Thanks!

I used a kit from Speedway Motors in my 36 Chevy for the Mustang II install. It is a weld in kit.
I used Chassis Engineering for my rear end leaf springs and associated mounting items.
Cars drives great. I installed an 88 Thunderbird P.S. Rack to accommodate the higher GM P.S. pump pressure.

 

[Mudless]

A beautiful job! I looked at Chassis Engineering's site they don't seem to have a leaf spring rear or I'm looking in the wrong place. I was looking at Southern Rods in Greer SC. It's within driving distance so no shipping or packaging fee. Also a weld in.

 

[zooma]

A beautiful job! I looked at Chassis Engineering's site they don't seem to have a leaf spring rear or I'm looking in the wrong place. I was looking at Southern Rods in Greer SC. It's within driving distance so no shipping or packaging fee. Also a weld in.

This is what I found on Chassis Engineering web site for a front end.

1937-1939 Chevy Bolt-On Pinto-Mustang II IFS Kit - Chassis Engineering Inc

Pinto-Mustang II based Independent Front Suspension Kit for 1937-1939 Chevy

chassisengineeringinc.com

This is the rear end

AS-1018CG Complete Leaf Spring Rear End Mounting Kit for 1937-1939 Chevy (Gas Shocks) - Chassis Engineering Inc

1937-1939 Chevy Complete Rear End Mounting Kit with Gas Shocks

chassisengineeringinc.com

 

[Ford blue blood]

Of note, that kit will also work on a 36 Standard chassis.

 

[Mudless]

This is what I found on Chassis Engineering web site for a front end.

1937-1939 Chevy Bolt-On Pinto-Mustang II IFS Kit - Chassis Engineering Inc

Pinto-Mustang II based Independent Front Suspension Kit for 1937-1939 Chevy

chassisengineeringinc.com

This is the rear end

AS-1018CG Complete Leaf Spring Rear End Mounting Kit for 1937-1939 Chevy (Gas Shocks) - Chassis Engineering Inc

1937-1939 Chevy Complete Rear End Mounting Kit with Gas Shocks

chassisengineeringinc.com

Ok I got the rear parallel's as well as the Mustang 2 on order. I was not sure how the car would be with power steering or not. Got power steering anyway. So now I'm chasing down the steering column issue. I've read several ways to measure and am confused. I would like a painted column with a column shifter and keyed ignition switch but am open to suggestions. Some say the steering wheel should be included in the measurement . I'd love to hear what's been used. Not against an in the dash key or a floor shift either. So what products have been tried and work well with ease of installation. Thanks for helping

 

[Ford blue blood]

The steering column should be tried and simulated with a broom handle and dowels down to the rack. Use tie wraps to hold the "column" and steering wheel in place, use masking tape to hold the shafts from the column to the rack. Getting all of that in "simulation" will prevent costly mistakes. Ididit (ididit | Custom Steering Columns) has all the u-joints, support bearings and columns to fix you up.

 

[39 master]

When I'm doing a build I first set the driver seat in so that my eyes are in the middle of the windshield. From there I duplicate the family car for steering wheel position. Detroit employs a bunch of engineers to set everything ergonomically correct and I see no reason to reinvent the (steering) wheel. With the column there is usually several inches of play in and out of the firewall. As mentioned above mock up the shaft(s) with wood. I use dowels. Like brakes, this is mandatory you get it correct.

 

[zooma]

Ford blue blood and 39 master have it down. I did it exactly the way they said, broom stick, 3/4" dowels for mock up and u-jpints. See pictures of my install on a 36 Chevy Coupe. It's critical that you do not exceed the amount of degrees the u-joint can provide. usually around 30 degrees before it binds up. Notice the support welded in between 2 joints. Need that type of support so nothing wiggles and you have a solid system. Also ensure you can slip the mock up dowels into the u-joints so they can be removed (not to long and not to short). Final D rod install should include a drilled divot so the set screws can lock into the D rod ensuring it does not spin in the u-joint. I also used an I-did-it steering column.

 

[Ford blue blood]

I should also mention, when all is where I think it should be I sit in the drivers seat for at least two beers. If you can sit in that position without squirming around it should be comfortable for driving any distance.

 

[Mudless]

Sorry for the late response! I had foot surgery and have not been feeling that great with it. I really appreciate all the help! I'm out of commission for 10 to 12 weeks. I'm just starting to get back into the ordering of parts. My IFS should be arriving on this coming Tuesday. I'm considering not using the 37's seat. Along with the steering column placement I would think the seat is KEY. What car should I be looking to rob a seat out of? Buckets or bench.

 

[zooma]

Sorry for the late response! I had foot surgery and have not been feeling that great with it. I really appreciate all the help! I'm out of commission for 10 to 12 weeks. I'm just starting to get back into the ordering of parts. My IFS should be arriving on this coming Tuesday. I'm considering not using the 37's seat. Along with the steering column placement I would think the seat is KEY. What car should I be looking to rob a seat out of? Buckets or bench.

You have sufficient head space in that coupe as well as forward and backward adjustment. A set of bucket seats will fill the interior. I used a set of Toyota Tacoma truck buckets because they were high and gave me good leg bend and adjustment. They were high enough to let me see comfortably out the windshield with no issues. Easy to fabricate front mounts and the backs bolted to the floor. Need to add 1/4" plate steel under the floor to thread (tap) and support the seat. I enclosed the only picture I have of the seats. Not to clear but will give you an idea.

 

[Ford blue blood]

I used the mid 70s Mustang seats in my 36 Std Sdn. They fit very nice, room for the emergency brake between them and they do not interfere with the doors.