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I have been working on making the templates for my 38 chevy chop top. Real Pain in the *****. Anyways, rather straight forward except I have ran into a huge issue. The doors. After making the template and basically destroying the brand new window channel i just installed. I finally got the windows to go up and down with the MDF in the channels. Took them to the glass cutter and reinstalled. Same problem I had before with the MDF except much worse. I can only imagine because the glass does not flex like the MDF. The issue is very simple the door frames on these cars bow forward very drastically at the A pillar. So drastically that there simply is no way to have the window in the channel by the B pillar and even come close to the A pillar channel. I came to the conclusion it is due to the fact that the car used to have a vent window. Being that i could not find a new post and assembly for the vent window I decided to just make one. In order to get the window to move real super smooth and also look decent with the interior garnish molding I had to set the vent window post rather far back. The vent window will be a fixed window and the post will be painted the same as the car. The issue is that the vent window is much larger than any that I have ever seen. Does it look decent enough to continue or should I start all over and move it forward another inch or two. I need advise, opinion, reassurance, or something. very sorry for the upside down pics, I have no idea how to rotate these things.
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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I have never been into one of those doors before but I have seen many of them with one piece windows, personally that huge "vent" window would not be the way I went under any circumstances.

Here is a one piece window kit that may be of help.
Chevs of the 40s Door Vent Window Rubber & Related 1938 Chevrolet Car Parts Page 1

What I want to know is why in the living he double toothpick is this being done on the car after it is painted? WTH?:confused:

The fact that the B pillar leans forward doesn't make much difference at all, the glass below the belt line doesn't "know" this, the glass should be traveling up and down on channel that is in the door, straight up and down. With a vertical channel at both front and rear of the door. If the channel is properly mounted and true vertical, (forward back, it doesn't need to be vertical in and out) identical to each other that glass will go up and down perfectly. I am thinking the problem may be that the the top of the door got pushed in so the pillars are leaning IN at the top, thus you don't have a straight line from bottom of channel to top of window. Not forward and back but sideways. This would require the glass to bend, which of course is not possible. So some home work is going to have to be done with the glass out.

This can possible be corrected by simply moving the bottom of the channel out from the original location so it's a straight line from the bottom to the top, be it leaning, that is cool, as long as it's a straight line. Check out the kit I linked to, there looks to be a lot of adjustment at the bottom to move the bottom in and out so the glass as a straight run.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Brian,

First off thanks for the thoughts. You are fully correct in respect to the angle of the window at the top. On these 38 chevy's the top bowed out only in the front of the door at the top. It bows out so dramatically that even with every adjustment possible the glass will never even come close. This is real evident if you site the old garnish molding down the top side of the molding. It almost looks like it is twisted.But it is not the vent window was mounted on an angle in relation to the door glass. I fully agree that the huge vent window looks funny. i can make it quite a bit smaller but that will en-tale some refab on the garnish molding. the only way you can get one piece of glass in that door is to push in the top front corner of the door frame about 1 1/2 inches. Which is impossible since it is painted. I did check out the kit you sent me. It is basically the same as what i designed myself from alluminum c channel at Lowes. Only it cost be $20.
 

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Unfortunately, you are going to have to find the straightness on top and bottom and get your channels to be in line with those points. Then you will need to get your vent window in place. This is a common thing people miss when chopping a car - making sure the glass will operate/fit once the car is finished.
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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Yep, first curved glass windshield chop I did I made the mistake of not making the top fit the glass, never made that one again!:pain:

Brian
 

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When setting up the glass channels, you just have to be sure everything is parallel. I probably spent 50 hours just getting mine set up correct. The biggest problem with 37 38 chev. coupes, is that the front 1/3 of the door kicks in where the vent window was. This means when all is said and done, you end up with a gap between the glass and the door near the center of the window. I took care of this problem during body work which means cut and weld.
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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Exactly slice and dice before the paint. Honestly, I think that may have to be done with Johns car, and repaint the area, I am sorry to say.

Brian
 

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I have always taken the vent window out myself, but yes, repaint would be required. If a person was real careful, might be able to keep the repairs just in the purple area. Those body lines are quite sharp too, so might be able to blend the clear off one of the lines - or just clear the whole door.
 
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