[Jake1966c10]

Hello all, new to the forum. I am restoring my 66 Chevy c10 truck. Going with a 383. My goal for this build is a daily driver with great torque and fun drive. Looking at a rotating assembly with around 9.5 to 10.0 compression. Have stock vortec heads not sure if am going to beef them up or not. They are a option or the AFR Vortec heads. I am leaning towards comp cams xe276xr cam but not sure if this is my best choice. Has anyone done something similar and what kind of results do you achive? My truck weighs around 32 to 3500 lbs I will be going with a 5 speed tremec. Thanks

 

[ericnova72]

Sounds like the combination fits together pretty well.

Using the AFR Vortecs along with 1.6 or 1.65 ratio intake rockers will be 50-70 hp better than a stock Vortecs and 1.5 rocker. Gets that intake valve open up near .550" valve lift to really take advantage of the big higher lift flow gains the AFR's can provide.

1.5 ratio for exhaust with either head.

AFR combination around 450 hp/475 t.lbs tq.
Stock port Vortecs and 1.5 rockers right around 400 hp.

You could even go to the XR282HR if you want to land toward the upper side of daily driver with attitude for manners. The added cubes of the 383" just soaks up that added duration vs the 350" that cam is designed around

 

[Jake1966c10]

I had actually looked at the 282 cam but thought it might be a little to large for me. Looking to have a crusing rpm of around 16 to 1700 at 55 to 60mph. So wasnt sure if the evening would lug down that low crusing and like it.

 

[eric32]

If you want those bigger cams then you will need higher numerical gear ratios to keep your engine in the rpm band that it will want to operate in and with what sizes your looking at your not going to be able to cruise at 1700 rpm at 60 mph. I have a dart shp 377 build (4.155 x 3.48) small block chevy and I run 3.42 rear gears with a turbo 350 with a 3000 plus stall convertor and when I cruise at 60 mph I am at about 2800 rpm and anything less then that I would be lugging my engine to death and all I have is a 268/272 220/[email protected] 510/510 lift hydraulic roller cam and even with its size if I wanted to cruise at under 2000 rpm my engine would be a big lug.

I had a 350 once with a bigger cam size once with a lunati voodoo hydraulic roller cam with 282/290 231/[email protected] 535/550 lift and I ran a turbo 350 with a 3000 plus stall and I ran 3:73 rear gears and trust me that thing would never run below 2000 cruising in any way shape or form.

You want to be within your torque band while cruising as its very important as the more duration your cam has and the higher the torque band is moved up then your rpm range your vehicle runs at needs to go up with it as well. Outside of a very mild cam your not going to be able to cruise at that low of a speed with any performance cam with more duration and crossing the 5000 plus rpm range for horsepower etc with out needing to have a higher rpm cruise speed and rear gears to match your build for it to operate and not have to lug to get up into the rpm range it needs to start to pull in its torque curve.

 

[ericnova72]

I had actually looked at the 282 cam but thought it might be a little to large for me. Looking to have a crusing rpm of around 16 to 1700 at 55 to 60mph. So wasnt sure if the evening would lug down that low crusing and like it.

Would have helped to have the rear gearing info in the frst post....1600-1700 cruise rpm even the 276 is probably too big on duration(but not lift, especially if using the AFR heads....go for all the lift you can find.)

Don't confine yourself to Comp Cams.....they aren't exactly the best.....just the biggest advertising budget.

Call Bullet Cams, or Jones Cam Designs, and get good personal help for something custom to fit your parameters.
Straub Technologies is another possibility.

 

[Jake1966c10]

Ok sounds good, didn't know if I had the 5 speed when just crusing I could go to overdrive and the engine would pull along, but I dont want the motor to get bogged down and have to down shift or not be a benefit to the 5speed. I will look into the links for the cams to see what they offer. With being limited to the lower duration is there any benefit to me going with the afr heads since the vortec heads flow well on the lower lift cams?

 

[BogiesAnnex1]

This cam works pretty well in a 383 or bigger engine. It‘s OK with a manual trans but needs some stall around 3000 with an automatic. Its rather iffy with vacuum brakes kind of sitting on that edge of just enough to a bit shy. It really likes compression up around 10 so it’s going to stretch cast iron Vortecs to their upper limit, aluminum heads would be the better bet.

Bogie

 

[ExcellenceAuto]

If you want those bigger cams then you will need higher numerical gear ratios to keep your engine in the rpm band that it will want to operate in and with what sizes your looking at your not going to be able to cruise at 1700 rpm at 60 mph. I have a dart shp 377 build (4.155 x 3.48) small block chevy and I run 3.42 rear gears with a turbo 350 with a 3000 plus stall convertor and when I cruise at 60 mph I am at about 2800 rpm and anything less then that I would be lugging my engine to death and all I have is a 268/272 220/[email protected] 510/510 lift hydraulic roller cam and even with its size if I wanted to cruise at under 2000 rpm my engine would be a big lug.

I had a 350 once with a bigger cam size once with a lunati voodoo hydraulic roller cam with 282/290 231/[email protected] 535/550 lift and I ran a turbo 350 with a 3000 plus stall and I ran 3:73 rear gears and trust me that thing would never run below 2000 cruising in any way shape or form.

You want to be within your torque band while cruising as its very important as the more duration your cam has and the higher the torque band is moved up then your rpm range your vehicle runs at needs to go up with it as well. Outside of a very mild cam your not going to be able to cruise at that low of a speed with any performance cam with more duration and crossing the 5000 plus rpm range for horsepower etc with out needing to have a higher rpm cruise speed and rear gears to match your build for it to operate and not have to lug to get up into the rpm range it needs to start to pull in its torque curve.

Not going to hijack.
But as soon as I get to my laptop, I'm going to start my own thread.
I have some serious questions about lugging my engine to death.

This is not the first time I've heard it, and im glad I didn't fall for it.
My Heavy Chevy (3980 with me in it) has a pretty healthy cam, and cruises just fine in OD, with the converter locked up. And absolutely screams in its power band. I can only imagine what it would do in a lighter car. LOL!


PS. I will post questions later, when i get to the shop...

 

[Jake1966c10]

I contacted jones cam and he gave me his recommendation. Duration is .220 into. 224 [email protected] and .510 on the lift with 112 LSA. I feel good about what he recommended to me. Does anyone have a opinion on what the performance and manners the cam would have? I dont care if it's got a lopey idel or any of that. Thanks

 

[ExcellenceAuto]

I contacted jones cam and he gave me his recommendation. Duration is .220 into. 224 [email protected] and .510 on the lift with 112 LSA. I feel good about what he recommended to me. Does anyone have a opinion on what the performance and manners the cam would have? I dont care if it's got a lopey idel or any of that. Thanks

Mikey likes it.
You are golden!!!