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Hi guys, I would really appreciate some guidance here... I am rebuilding a 350 gm 010 block into a 383 stroker. Here is what I have>>> The block has been decked and bored 40 over, I have an Eagle crank 3750 stroke, ext balanced with 6" Eagle rods and pistons. I have about an average of .006 deck clearance in each bore opening, .020cc dished piston heads, aluminum Trick flow super 23 175 heads with 56cc chambers, 1.940 intake valve diameter and 1.5 exhaust valve diameter, .041 crushed head gasket, Elgin E923 hydraulic flat tappet cam shaft, intake valve lift is .420, exhaust lift .443, 1.5 scorpion roller rockers, hydraulic lifters, Edelbrock dual plane intake manifold with a 650 Edelbrock carb. my calculations with a compression calculator was around 10.1:1... Can anybody tell me if all of these parts go together well??? I am looking for a street car (no race at all) with power to drive in the city and long distant drives... Any help would be much appreciated... My name is David and thank you...
 

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Yeah they are D dished pistons... I liked the quench height article you sent to me, never thought about that... I appreciate it... I have a 700R4 tranny and my rear end gear ratio is just a standard gm 10 bold they put in a base 67 Camaro. Not 100% sure what that is... I guess more what I meant about driving distanced would be if the way I am building the motor, would it hold up to driving long distances as long as I built it the right way... I don't want a race car... A little worried about making sure it runs on pump gas...
 

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Hi guys, I would really appreciate some guidance here... I am rebuilding a 350 gm 010 block into a 383 stroker. Here is what I have>>> The block has been decked and bored 40 over, I have an Eagle crank 3750 stroke, ext balanced with 6" Eagle rods and pistons. I have about an average of .006 deck clearance in each bore opening, .020cc dished piston heads, aluminum Trick flow super 23 175 heads with 56cc chambers, 1.940 intake valve diameter and 1.5 exhaust valve diameter, .041 crushed head gasket, Elgin E923 hydraulic flat tappet cam shaft, intake valve lift is .420, exhaust lift .443, 1.5 scorpion roller rockers, hydraulic lifters, Edelbrock dual plane intake manifold with a 650 Edelbrock carb. my calculations with a compression calculator was around 10.1:1... Can anybody tell me if all of these parts go together well??? I am looking for a street car (no race at all) with power to drive in the city and long distant drives... Any help would be much appreciated... My name is David and thank you...
Need to know exactly what piston.

Assuming a flat top with 7 ccs of valve eyebrows my model drives 11.78 to one, whether this works depends a lot on the cam timing so need that info to.

Bogie
 

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You've got it quite well thought out. :cool:

Using you're spec's and what I assume you meant 20cc piston dish, and 4.166"(common Fel-Pro) head gasket bore size I came up with 10.1:1 compression ratio

You do realize that when looking at Camshaft power ranges that the catalog listed ranges are most typically for 350 cube SBC's(the most common size), and that when used in a 383 will drop 300-400 rpm??
I would be more inclined to use the Elgin E922 instead, once you look at the RPM correction to it's range that you need to make.

Crower is the only cam company that seems to acknowledge this correction, and shows rpm ranges for each cam based off of engine cubic inch in most of their catalog listings.
 

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Yeah they are D dished pistons... I liked the quench height article you sent to me, never thought about that... I appreciate it... I have a 700R4 tranny and my rear end gear ratio is just a standard gm 10 bold they put in a base 67 Camaro. Not 100% sure what that is... I guess more what I meant about driving distanced would be if the way I am building the motor, would it hold up to driving long distances as long as I built it the right way... I don't want a race car... A little worried about making sure it runs on pump gas...
You can put the rear end on safety jack stands and count the number of driveshaft revolutions to rotate both rear wheels exactly one turn... that number is also the rear end ratio... or have a shop put it on a frame lift and do that for you... there may also be a tag on the rear end with the ratio...

Probably your biggest concern for long engine life is the correct valve springs pressures... about 85 - 100 lbs. on the seat and about 260 - 280 lbs. open at max valve lift... more than that can kill the cam and lifters early... otherwise, it should survive 100,000+ miles... so drive as far as you want...

The Elgin 922 would also be a good cam... didn't realize it could be bought for $33.83 w/ free shipping! https://www.amazon.com/Elgin-Industries-E-922-P-Camshaft-Performance/dp/B009XP78GM
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